Old homemade hammer arrestor didn't drain with rest of the house - froze - burst - now what?

[Gasdark]

Hi everybody,

So we left our house in the woods for a few weeks. Shut off the well pump, ran the water till the tank was effectively empty, cleared all the pipes in the whole house running the basement faucets, and then shut off the water main.

We've done this many times and never had any issues with freezing.

This time was different. Despite thinking we'd cleared the lines, apparently this old homemade hammer arrestor retained a significant amount of secret water and burst - which we only discovered when we returned - brought the house to temp - and turned on the main and the well pump.

Question is - what now?

That (significantly corroded it turns out) valve leads to the dishwasher. My immediate plan to have running water is to cut the 1/2 pipe below the break and cap it so we have running water.

But beyond that, Im not sure how to proceed from a diy perspective. In particular, I'm concerned that even if I successfully install a new, real hammer arrestor, its still going to fail to drain and explode again.

All input is welcome, including and especially, explaining ways hidden to me, but obvious to you all, that I'm being an idiot.

Thank you!

 

[Jeff H Young]

you need to open the upstairs faucets for it to drain out and the basement faucets

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Sylvan]

On the air chamber (hammer arrester) you should have a C X F adapter soldered on top and install a bleeder valve or a C XM adapter and a valve to not only drain the air chamber to help replenish it when it is full

 

[hj]

It is almost IMPOSSIBLE To drain an air chamber once it has air in it, because there is no "easy" way for air to enter it so the water can drain out.

 

[Gasdark]

It is almost IMPOSSIBLE To drain an air chamber once it has air in it, because there is no "easy" way for air to enter it so the water can drain out.

Ok - so presently I have cut the 3/4 pipe below the crack - it's about 3-4 inches long now - and capped it so we can run the house water. Not going to use the dishwasher until I've installed a new hammer arrestor.

Not sure how this forum feels about sharkbites - but that's the route I'm taking. They make a 1/2 inch hammer arrestor - presumably for realsies with a bladder as opposed to an at home empty pipe. Going to replace the valve and the dishwasher hose at that point too.

Question is once the new bladder is installed, how do I avoid the same thing happening in the future then?

 

[Jeff H Young]

you could put a ball valve there to open and vent out allowing better drainage

 

[Sylvan]

When I installed air chambers I increased the size of the pipe (tubing) for example 1/2 x 1" x 1/2 18" min and place a valve below the air chamber ( to isolate it) then a TEE with a valve on the bull for drain down and on top another valve to ALLOW FOR full DRAINING OF WEATER TRAPPED INSIDE THE ac AND ALLOWS TO EASILY REPLENISH THE AIR WHEN NEEDED

 

[Jeff H Young]

I don't deal a lot with freeze , but in cold weather and seasonal homes like summer homes thought should be made for winter and that's one difference between good and bad work in cold climate

 

[Reach4]

I don't see how you expected to drain that connection to the dishwasher without disconnecting the dishwasher supply hose.

 

[Sylvan]

It is almost IMPOSSIBLE To drain an air chamber once it has air in it, because there is no "easy" way for air to enter it so the water can drain out.

This type AC is great as it is very easy to maintain .

 

[Fitter30]

So when u leave u close all the valves? Country house never had a problem leaving all the valves open for 6 years till I moved permanently.

 

[hj]

That is a "whole house" A.C., but since an A.C. is required to be installed AT whatever is causing the water hammer, it would be essentially ineffective. But would LOOK nice.

 

[LLigetfa]

I make it a point to install the air chambers on the top of a vertical run of pipe when possible with the supply take-off Tee'd off the side. That way any air in the lines would take the vertical path. Also when it is time to drain the water from it, it would have a vertical drop.

When draining piping for freeze prevention, I use an air compressor to introduce air into the lines to blow them out. Alternating between air pressurizing and draining helps to drain the air chambers provided they are not already 100% waterlogged. Follow that with plumbing antifreeze forced through the lines with air pressure.

Do note that the line to the dishwasher is considered a dead leg since the closed solenoid valve is like keeping your thumb on a straw unless you cycle the dishwasher while the line is pressurized with air. The drain line on the dishwasher should be filled with plumbing antifreeze since it is designed to trap water as are other drain traps.

Some water hammer stops utilize a piston or diaphragm meant to keep the air from getting absorbed.