Old drum trap

[Estpaul]

My old drum trap was leaking so I decided to cut it out to replace with P trap. It appears that there is a vent pipe running off the top of it. I don't have access to it unless I cut out the wall which I really don't want to.

Do I need this vent pipe or does the main waste stack vent it? here's some pictures the pipe is to the right of the bathtub.

 

[Jadnashua]

Is that a lead pipe going into the cast iron hub? If so, you probably should remove that section from the CI hub and replace it all with pvc or abs. The easiest way to make that conversion is to use a properly sized rubber donut. You may need to special order the proper size. To find that out, you'd need to measure the ID of the hub once you get all of the junk out of there.

As to the vent, did you cut that pipe, or did it come out of a fitting? If you cut it, you could use a banded coupling to make a connection to the new vent from the added p-trap. If it pulled out of a leaded joint...then it gets much messier. Any way you can take a picture of where that part is?

One of the pros might have some better insight based on experience.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Terry]

The tub will need to keep it's vent. Venting prevents the trap from siphoning, which in turn lets sewer gas into the home. Vents were needed when the home was built, and they are still needed. Vents are not outdated.

 

[Estpaul]

Not sure if its galvanized or lead, that's what I would have preferred to do is remove it and put in a donut. I do not have a torch to melt out the old joint and I did not want to risk cracking the cast iron pipe trying to break or chisel it out.

Also being the weekend no plumbers available and this is my only bathroom so I needed it done and did the best I could with what I had. luckily behind the tub is a closet, the access panel didn't include the vent pipe so I cut the wall open. I got everything hooked up and none of my abs joints leak. but at the p trap where it screws together there's a small leak. i hand tightened it as much as possible still there. I didn't think you are supposed to use a wrench on this fitting? Any ideas how to stop the leak?

Here's what I did, remember I'm just a homeowner and did the best I could because my drum trap started leaking all over and no plumbers called back.

 

[Cacrawfo]

I think you did a very good job for the space constraints.
The only thing I could mention would be that the horizontal section of pipe leading to your vertical vent connection would be considered a "flat vent", and those have the possibility of getting gunked up over the years. A possible solution to this would have been to turn your P-trap in such a way that the horizontal drain pipe would pass directly under (or within a 45 degree arc) the vertical vent connection. This would allow you to connect the horizontal drain pipe to the vent pipe vertically. (or at a 45 degree angle, which is considered vertical for venting purposes)
I cannot tell from the picture, but the last 90 fitting before you connect to the old lead, that should be a long turn fitting.

 

[Terry]

Not bad considering what you were replacing. The previous trap vent was flat, which is not the best practice now.
If you feel ambitious, you could put the santee on the vertical on the vent, point it toward the tub p-trap, and coming out of the bottom of the santee, head over to the existing 2" cast iron drain.

I would have cut the 2" cast, and used a mission coupling on it, A PK22 if the cast is 2-1/8" OD. Then run 2" from there using a 2" x 1.5" x 1.5" santee on the vertical.

But what you have now, is better than the old lead trap you took out.

 

[Estpaul]

The last fitting going to the cast iron/lead is a long turn 90 cacrawfo. Terry that's why you guys are the pro's!! but being the weekend no one around and it had to get done. I'll remember your guys info for the future. This is my first house, built in 1956. I'm sure I'll be doing more plumbing eventually.

 

[Estpaul]

Oh and if anyone has any suggestions for the p trap leaking let me know. I loosened the coupler and p trap made sure the p trap was seated right then tightened that and the coupler back down and it is still leaking a little bit. wondering if Teflon tape would do anything?

 

[Terry]

I normally use a glued up trap. Why not use some of the ABS glue you have and put that on there?

 

[Jadnashua]

You could try using a big pair of pliers on the trap nuts...just don't go crazy with them. If they are not aligned well, it can leak and tightening it more is putting stress on it as it tries to pull them together. It depends somewhat on how much hand strength you have and how easy it is to gain access...hand-tight is not the same for everyone.

Tape will NOT help. A dab of pipe dope might, but make sure the one you choose won't cause issues with the abs...not all of them can be used on plastic. If nothing else, the pipe dope can act as a lubricant, maybe making it easy enough to tighten without needing any pliers.

 

[Estpaul]

I think my hand strength is pretty good. like I said I tightened that first to make sure it was aligned. I'm going to take it apart when I get home and look for any small defect in the lip or a bur. if nothings found Ill try some pipe dope with PTFE in it that's ABS safe. If that doesn't work I might have to do what Terry said and glue it.

It's as hand tight as I can get it.