Okay Okay I am now trying it the right way but still have questions

[Pdschu]

I went back to the Brady website and got their instructions for putting down a wellpoint. I have now gotten the 2"casing down to about 13-14 ft. I had to go through about 2ft of hardpan at the ten foot level but am now back into sand. I am having to drive the casing into the ground as I washed out the clay of the hardpan and now the sand. The problem is that the 2ft of hardpan was/is so dense that I can no longer turn the pipe with a wrench to rotate it although it does go down with hammering encouragement. I am concerned about getting the casing out again after I get to the proper "adequate depth".

Any thoughts on this? I would very much appreciate all the advice I can get.

Thanks, Paul

 

[Speedbump]

Why do you want the casing out? Are you driving a sand point or just the casing alone?

bob...

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Pdschu]

I am driving the casing only. The instructions from Brady say to remove the casing after the sand point is placed. Iwas just going by the instructions. I have not placed the sandpoint and 11/4" pipe until I reach the adequate depth as they describe it in the instructions. It seems to me that I read somewhere on this forum thet leaving the casing allows air to be pumped up more easily .

I appreciate your help.

Paul

 

[Speedbump]

So they tell you to drive two inch casing to an appropriate depth? How are you supposed to know what is an appropriate depth without drilling the pipe out with one of several methods?

bob...

 

[Pdschu]

Bob,

This is what the Brady site says:

http://bradyproducts.com/documents/wellinstallation.pdf

8. After you have the 2†pipe down to the depth where you will have a minimum of 18†of water over the well point. which was determined by using the string and weight, you are then ready to pull out your ¾†pipe, if it was needed, and install the Brady well point. Cement the Brady well point using an 1 ¼†flush inside slip coupling to enough 1 ¼†PVC pipe to extend a minimum of 10†above ground level when lowered inside the 2†casing.

9. After the Brady well point and 1 ¼â€
pipe are lowered inside the 2†casing,
pull the 2†casing out of the ground,
allowing the water bearing sand to
collapse around the well screen and
pipe. NOTE: Make sure the well point
does not come out with the 2†casing.

The casing is clear to the end having been washed out of sand and clay as it was pushed/driven to its current level.

I really would appreciate hearing a better away to do this as I am not even to the level of an amateur in wells.

Thank you very much.

Paul

 

[Speedbump]

Are you drilling the pipe out as you knock it in the ground? If so; that must be the 3/4" pipe they are talking about. In other words you are running water down the 3/4" pipe and bringing out cuttings with the water flow. Right?

I don't buy the 18" above the screen thing. That's a pretty broad statement to make when everywhere you go it's different.

I would simply be looking for clean sand/gravel that drinks a lot of water. When you stop drilling and are past the end of the 2" pipe, the casing should drink water. How fast will depend on the actual water level and the kind of material you are in. If it does not drink any water and you are sure your past the end of the 2" pipe, there is no water there to be had.

bob...

 

[Pdschu]

Bob,

Thanks for your help!

Yes, I am cleaning out the casing pipe as it is driven in using the 3/4 " pipe and the house water. I got through about 2' of hadrpan and now am in sand again and can easily push the jetting pipe through the sand. I have not checked the water level as yet because I just got past the hardpan and I know the previous two wells on this system that I am adding to were at about 15 feet so I think I have a few feet to go. My original concern that still bothers me is now that I have gotten past the hardpan there is so much friction between the casing and the hardpan that I can no longer turn the casing with a pipe wrench, as per instructions, and I am still worried about being able to pull the casing as per the Brady instructions.

Thanks,

Paul

 

[Speedbump]

Use a cheater bar (5' piece of pipe over the end of the wrench) that will turn it. You are going to need something to either pull it out or something to beat it out. Turning will help loosen it though.

What we used many years ago was a Railroad Spike Puller a 4 X 4 and a chain. A pipewrench above the chain on the pipe with upward pressure on the handle helped the chain take a bite. The other guy would jump up and down on the end of the puller which is about 5' long. The 4 X 4 under the bar was practically touching the pipe to get the most leverage. Keep your knees bent, so that when your helper gets tired and lets the chain slip, you won't jam your spine up into your brain.

bob...

 

[Pdschu]

Do you think the sch 40 2 in PVC will withstand the torque of a cheater bar without breaking?

Paul

 

[Speedbump]

Whoa... I didn't know it was PVC. If your banging on PVC and not breaking it, you must not be hitting it very hard. I thought you were using galvanized. If you have to start over, I highly recommend galvanized. PVC is only used when you make a larger hole first then put the PVC in after with little or no effort.

bob...

 

[Pdschu]

PVC is what the Brady site instructions call for so that is what I was using. Note WAS using. I am going to cut the casing off below ground level and call a well man Monday. I figure the $400 is looking better all the time.

Thanks, Paul

 

[Speedbump]

No problem Paul, Good luck and hope it works out for you. I never put any faith in anything Brady made anyway. They always tried to replace metal things with plastic.

bob...