ok to increase number of turns in gal steel supply?

[scoobs]

Hello,

The plumbing I have done to date has always been to replace what is existing until my current project where I need to re-center the shower mixer and head on the wall.

I think the reason it was done like this originally (off-center in the shower) is because they didn't want the pipes running directly across the foundation vent which would expose the pipes almost directly to the outside.

My question is specifically, is it ok to increase the number of turns in my proposed solution as pictured below? Generally, is there a limit to the number of turns you can/should make? And, does that differ between materials (this is gal steel supply)?

Thanks in advance,

scoobs

 

[Terry]

You can add many 90's to the layout on water.
Water will find it's way under pressure.

It's the waste lines that matter more.

Nice Avatar!

 

[Sponsor]

 

[scoobs]

Terry,

Thanks for the quick reply. You have fostered a great resource here with this forum - I have found it VERY helpful!

REMEMBER THE ALAMO!

 

[Jadnashua]

I would take the opportunity to change the pipe from galvanized to something else. Going to the trouble to put in a new showerand using piping that is known to rust out on the inside and create problem just doesn't seem like a great idea.

 

[scoobs]

Jim,

Thanks for the reply. This is something I considered originally (replacing all with copper), but in trying to get away with the least amount of work, came back to just working with the existing gal steel which is throughout the house.

Then your post....

Do you think it is better to have a union to new copper? How far do you go in replacing? Are copper/steel unions as reliable as a regular joint? I have always worked with copper before so this is new for me but the gal steel doesn't seem difficult to work with.

As a side note, we have VERY hard water and I've always wondered if different types of piping were better than others in this case.

 

[Jadnashua]

A new shower could last 40-50 years...galvanized probably won't. But, if you don't replace it back to where you can get to what is left when it does go, you'd still have to tear it out. I'd consider rerouting new pipes out of something more permanent back to where you can get to it without tearing out the new shower. Now, I'm not sure what is the best thing to do with those pipes coming out of the floor (is this a slab?).

One of the pros will have their thoughts.

Also note, new showers are supposed to have a 2" drain and p-trap. That could possibly be a weak point as well.

 

[Bob NH]

I would go back as far as possible to a threaded connection in the galvanized pipe or a good female fitting. Then, put a threaded adapter on that pipe and run to the shower. If you have a standard flow shower (2.5 GPM) you can use 1/2" copper, or 3/4" CPVC (easier).

Put a shutoff valve in both the hot and cold lines. If there is one in the galvanized it is either gone or will be soon. In fact, you might go back to the valve if there is one.

If there is a brass valve in the line, it will usually have a good thread if you can get the iron out. The valve can be a good place to put a male adapter for the new pipe.

With either copper or CPVC, I skip the union unless there is a good reason to have one. You can cut those pipes and install couplings if you need to get in and work on them.

The only trouble you should have will be if the galvanized pipe threads are so rotten that you can't make a connection. Then you may have to get someone to cut and thread the end of the pipe.

 

[scoobs]

Bob NH,

Thanks for your comments. What you and jadnashua have suggested seems to make a lot of sense. This is no time to get lazy on my part! In this case, I can easily make the connections to gal steel in an accessible place with new 1/2" copper to the shower. Also, always having worked with copper is another + for me in this scenario.

Thanks for the advice!

scoobs