Offset closet flange

[WallyGater]

I`m in the process of remodeling my bathroom. the toilet flange is 14 inches from the finished wall. In order to change it to 12 inch, the stack would have to be cut and a new tee would have to be installed. this new tee could be rotated to the correct position leaving a 12 inch rough. I would have to hire a plumber and spend about 500. bucks, or I could just put an offset flange on there. the floor is not tiled yet. It sounds like the offset flange is something that is only used as a last resort. It sounds like the are very problematic. What exactly is the downside to an offset flange? I think I would rather spend the 500 bucks on a special order toilet. However the offset flange, and the old toilet, would cost me next to nothing.

 

[Gary Swart]

I don't recall much of any discussion on the offset flanges. It seems to me that while they would put a bend where a normal flange would not, they should work OK. But, that is just a guess on my part. They do make 14" rough-in toilets, but like the 10" rough-ins, they cut the selection of toilets down considerably. I would advise against going with the old full flow toilet because it wouldn't pass inspection. I would hold off on a decision until the pros chime in with their opinions on the offset flange, but if that is not a good option, I'd recommend biting the bullet and having a plumber do what has to be done to convert to a 12" rough-in. Of course, you can always use a 12" rough-in toilet on a 14" space if you don't mind the big gap behind the tank.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[WallyGater]

Quote "I would hold off on a decision until the pros chime in with their opinions on the offset flange"

OK

 

[Howard M Emerson]

Quote "I would hold off on a decision until the pros chime in with their opinions on the offset flange"

OK

Hi Wally,
Is your toilet flange currently connected to a lead bend? If so, you can make up a whole lot of the distance with a little effort, elongating the hole in the floor, and a few well-judged whacks with a large, round piece of wood and a hammer.

If it's PVC, or otherwise, nevermind.

HE

 

[WallyGater]

Lead bend is gone. Its all PVC now.

 

[hj]

offset

The offset flange that does not create a problem requires that the vertical portion of the pipe be at least 4" long and you have to cut part of it off. Do NOT use an offset flange that has an oval flange.

 

[Gary Swart]

There was one bit of information not mentioned in your original question. What is the size of the drain? If it is 3", be sure the flange HJ referred to fits on the outside of the pipe, not the inside. If the drain is 4", it's your choice. And as I previously mentioned, get a new Toto to top the new flange.

 

[Gary Swart]

It should also be pointed out that the new flange should set on top of the finished floor and be screwed through that and into the sub floor. You may already be aware of all of this, but too often DIYers mess up on this final step then come back asking for advice on how to get fix the problem.

 

[WallyGater]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quote:
"The offset flange that does not create a problem requires that the vertical portion of the pipe be at least 4" long and you have to cut part of it off".

is the vertical portion of the pipe called the riser? if so, mine is about 10 inches. What do you mean by "you have to cut some of it off?

It seems to me that an offset flange would solve many of the problems that I`ve read regarding rough ins on this site. There has to be a good reason not to use them.

 

[Terry]

It seems to me that an offset flange would solve many of the problems that I`ve read regarding rough ins on this site. There has to be a good reason not to use them.

If you use an offset flange like that, and it's in a floor joist, you may have to cut some of the floor joist away.
Most of the time, the offset flange is done at rough-in.
If there hasn't been an offset flange already installed, there is normally a reason why.
A plumber would never assume that the previous plumber was so dumb that he didn't try to put it in the right spot to begin with.
I have put in plenty, if I've ever left something different than a 12", it was because every other way had been tried.
Now there are older homes built in the 20's that used 14" rough for a measurement. But most of those were run in either Cast Iron or used a Lead Bend. Not prime candidates for the PVC offset.

So try this for a good reason,
You have a bathroom where the closet flange is 2" from being where you would like it.
If you have a crawl space, you can hop down there, and if the wood structure allows the move, you can cut what wood out you need, and recut the hole through the flooring.
Now is there now a reason to fix the floor before a toilet can be set?
Maybe, and maybe hiring a contractor and paying $500 or so, just so that you can move an $79 builder special over 2" is sounding kind of pricey.
It's not like the $79 wonders are all that worth saving, I threw them out daily.

Another way to move a toilet 2"

 

[Gardner]

not an expert

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What do you mean by "you have to cut some of it off?"

A good offset flange is like the picture Terry has just edited into HJ's post. It has some length to it, and the riser would have to be cut a few inches below the floor level to accommodate it.

There are some that attempt to achieve the offset with much less vertical drop, or none at all. These kind will cause problems.

 

[Terry]

Have you ever installed one of those?
by the way, I'm the one that posted the picture

If you have nothing in the way, and the tee is low enough, then yes you could just drop one in. So very easy.

If it was that easy, why didn't the previous plumber just drill the hole at 12"?

Is it a home from the twenties where there were all at 14" or was he missing a floor joist?
If the original poster can show a picture showing no floor joist in the way, then let's talk about it.

Most people just reuse the 12" toilet they have.

 

[WallyGater]

If the original poster can show a picture showing no floor joist in the way, then let's talk about it.

the original bathroom had thick mud walls with a 12 inch rough in. the new bathroom walls are sheet rock with 3/8 inch tile. that's where I gained the two inches. the stack is in the corner of the room and the tee angles toward the hole in the floor. the only way to change that angle would be to rotate the tee. that would mean cutting the stack and putting in a new tee.
Sounds like a lot of work just so I don't have to special order a toilet.
Whats my best option?
1. order the 14 inch toilet ?
2. use an offset flange ?
3. cut the stack and change the rough ?

 

[Redwood]

Wally can you give us pics taken from above and below so we can see what you have there?

 

[WallyGater]

I will post a picture for you tomorrow morning. big black pipe runs vertically from the basement to the roof. down in the basement there is a black tee. off of that there is a fernco, and then there is 3 inch PVC. the PVC comes out of the fernco, 90 degree elbow up, about 10 inch riser, than pops Thur floor in bathroom. unfortunately as you can see in the sketch, the tee points the whole thing on a 45 degree angle, so the only way to achieve 12 inches is to rotate the tee in the basement.

 

[WallyGater]

more pictures

 

[Redwood]

I gotcha!
Yea, That would be a tough one to move.
The offset would be good in that application.

 

[hj]

offset

The offset is not the ONLY way, just possibly the easiest one. A plumber would probably use a street 1/16 bend between the tee and the closet bend to offset it back.

 

[WallyGater]

Really. Do you have a picture of a "street 1/16 bend" ? That sounds like something I can do myself.

 

[Redwood]

Part # 326 on page 22 of this linked catalog below.

http://www.charlottepipe.com/Documents/DimensionalCatalogs/Plastic_Pipe_Fittings.pdf

It is what I would do but the reason why I said go with the offset is the geometry might be a little bit hairy for a DIYer.
If you can pull it off it would be the best way.

I would also change out that rubber Fernco to the proper sheilded one like a Fernco Proflex.
Rubber ones like that should only be used outside underground by most codes.

Click here for Fernco Proflex Information PDF