Oatey washer shut off valve

[DIYER39]

Terry,

Thanks for the posting.

I will probably redo the hot valve connection by sweating a stub on the valve and connecting it to the existing 1/2” copper with either a Sharkbite or copper compression coupling to eliminate the straig thread to tapered thread issue. . I’m not comfortable using a torch inside a wall due to fire potential.

If you had to choose, which coupling would you use inside a wall? Sharkbite or Compression? Soldering is not an option for me.

Jerry

Hey Jerry, assuming you are trying to follow "plumbing code", do they even make regular compression fittings for in wall use? If not that would make your choice a simple one but hopefully an expert can chime in and help.

Whenever I DIY electrical and plumbing stuff I always think about the potential for an insurance investigator to examine the work if something happens. Obviously Im no expert, but I try to follow the rules when possible

 

[Koa]

Jerry's install is nicer looking. It also has one less potential leak point at a GH connection. The valve is probably easier to operate too.

That suggestion of yours would have been a whole lot less work.

Less work!

Some additional info...

There are higher quality screw on valves (with or without swivel) with larger easy to operate handles. Handles can be removed and repositioned for install. Yes there is another rubber washer, but the odds of it leaking are pretty slim. Adding one more rubber washer to all the ones inside one's house already isn’t increasing the risk factor much. I have screw on brass angle adaptors to reposition hoses downward. Also, there are better hoses than those braided stainless ones, so if leaking of another fitting is a concern, Floodchek should be considered.

http://www.floodchek.com/

These are the cutoff valves I use on some of my hoses.

https://www.amazon.com/Underhill-CV075H-Super-¾-Inch-Thread/dp/B003TLN81U/ref=sr_1_30?crid=36PQNAL0W25WD&keywords=hose+cutoff+valve&qid=1560878295&s=gateway&sprefix=Hose+cu,aps,239&sr=8-30

I get the aesthetics but it’s likely not to matter much by the washer.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[DIYER39]

Less work!

Some additional info...

There are higher quality screw on valves (with or without swivel) with larger easy to operate handles. Handles can be removed and repositioned for install. Yes there is another rubber washer, but the odds of it leaking are pretty slim. Adding one more rubber washer to all the ones inside one's house already isn’t increasing the risk factor much. I have screw on brass angle adapters to reposition hoses downward. Also, there are better hoses than those braided stainless ones, so if leaking of another fitting is a concern, Floodchek should be considered.

http://www.floodchek.com/

These are the cutoff valves I use on some of my hoses.

I get the aesthetics but it’s likely not to matter much by the washer.

Your just playing with us amateurs right? Are you suggesting leaving the crusty old non functioning valve in place and daisy chaining another new valve behind the washing machine? Maybe I am misunderstanding.

 

[JerryR]

Jerry's install is nicer looking. It also has one less potential leak point at a GH connection. The valve is probably easier to operate too.

That suggestion of yours would have been a whole lot less work.

Exactly.

If I were buying this house and saw an additional garden hose brass shut off I would have checked the Original valve for leaks. If it was found to leak I would have insisted on replacing the washer box and valves.

I wish I had seen the Dahl ball valves before opening the wall. Those would have been the easiest fix and would keep it original looking.

Right now I’m leaving the wall open for a while until I decide permanent coupling.

The other side of the wall is behind kitchen cabinets. We are considering a kitchen remodel. If I do the remodel I’ll open the wall on the other side to allow me to use a torch on the valves without fear of creating a fire.

 

[Reach4]

The other side of the wall is behind kitchen cabinets. We are considering a kitchen remodel. If I do the remodel I’ll open the wall on the other side to allow me to use a torch on the valves without fear of creating a fire.

https://www.oatey.com/2370957/Product/Oatey-Flame-Protector

Could be used if you wanted to solder.

 

[Koa]

Yes. I was suggesting a quick easy fix by daisy chaining another valve, if the original valve just wouldn’t shut off completely, but wasn't leaking. Is it a permanent fix? No. Would I suggest this if the house was being sold? No. But knowing now that the kitchen is being renovated in the future with more access to inside the wall? Yes, I think it wasn’t a bad idea.

 

[DIYER39]

I see. Thank you Koa. All advice and suggestions are appreciated for sure and Im happy to learn about those type of valves.

I recently had a hose burst at the connection point so I myself will try to limit the amount of connections from now on. The connection looked fine from the outside but crumbled apart when I tried to remove it. Hose was around 8 years old so I kind of blame myself. Luckily I was home and heard the water spraying upstairs.

 

[N2mb]

I had the same issue with an Oatey box and replaced the valves with the generic home depot ones that are sky high, like @JerryR . However, I'm not sure my valves are tapered thread to use the Dahl replacements. Here are the old valves. Do they look tapered?

 

[Reach4]

Top thread in picture looks tapered to me.

 

[Jeff H Young]

Top thread in picture looks tapered to me.

Thanks for opinion to me they look straight I've installed many boxes with valves and only serviced a few I've mainly cut them below and soldered a new one in. haven't took one apart in so long but I thought they were straight threads and depended on bottoming out to seal kind of like a union. I see they wrapped tape around them you only do that on tapered pipe threads

 

[Terry]

The top thread in picture looks tapered to me too.

The replacement valves with the red handles are a straight thread, typically meant to have a 1/2" line soldered to the end. The straight threads are for the nut that secures the valves to the washer box.

These threads are not tapered. With these I solder 1/2" pipe to the female end.

 

[Jeff H Young]

The red box helps show so I guess they are tapered . The other part that attaches to the box I know is never tapered