O ring in water filter casing’s threads - my chance of loosening?

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Novice_home-owner

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my whole house water filter was tightened last with the o ring in between the casing and the base, just under the threads of the casing (the o ring can be seen in the pic to have snapped when the casing tried threading it into the threads during tightening). I’ve finally noticed this after unsuccessfully attempting to get the filter casing off by 1) using the plastic wrench, 2) using a second plastic wrench, 3) using PVC over the handle of one wrench as a lever (didn’t have wide enough PVC for two wrenches), and breaking the handle of that wrench, 4) hair dryer for several minutes, then hammer and mallet taps, then attempting with one plastic wrench, and finally 5) with a strap wrench (designed for oil filter) and ratchet, which didn’t work nearly as well (to get a baseline reference point for the tool) on my larger filter as the plastic wrench did - the larger filter can be loosened just fine. At this point do I just need to get someone to cut the copper pipes and install a whole new water filter, or is there any hope of getting this off while the o ring is between the casing and base, making it so hard to loosen? It’s not worked its way up into the threads, as can be seen in the picture, but it’s clearly at the base of the threads under the casing, not seated where it should be

B6CD82CC-B197-49BA-86C6-437BF98F1562.jpeg
 

Novice_home-owner

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Did you release the water pressure before trying to remove it?
Your filter looks to be installed with unions. If so, no need to cut pipe to replace it.
Thanks! Yeah I used the relief valve and left a faucet open downstream when I shut off the water upstream (closing the downstream valve later, though, before attempting to loosen the filter). Little chance of getting it off then, huh? I’ve got a Lisle strap wrench already shipped. Should I find out from Pentek what their newest model is that’s equivalent to this? Or, are the couplings going to be a universal part that will fit most filters? I don’t have experience with this at all (just a little with the pex in my house and with compression couplings for my appliances).
 

Reach4

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Or, are the couplings going to be a universal part that will fit most filters?
The distance between fittings is not standard.

When you put in your new filter, you might consider putting in a 3-valve bypass around the filter in case your filter housing fails. With that, you won't be out of water while you get things fixed.

My Pentek Big Blue filters use a much thicker 0-ring.

Too bad you weren't trying to get the housing loose when there was pressure. It would have been an easy fix.
 

Novice_home-owner

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Too bad you weren't trying to get the housing loose when there was pressure. It would have been an easy fix.
@Reach4
Thanks for the tips on the sizes and 3-valve. You’re saying I should leave pressure on when I first start to loosen a filter casing? The YouTube videos I watched all said to shut off water first. does leaving pressure on make it loosen easier, or is it something else it does?
 

Reach4

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You’re saying I should leave pressure on when I first start to loosen a filter casing?
No! I was hoping that if you had something ignorant by leaving the pressure on, we could laugh a bit, you would remove the pressure and succeed with the un-screwing.
 

SShaw

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Thanks! Yeah I used the relief valve and left a faucet open downstream when I shut off the water upstream (closing the downstream valve later, though, before attempting to loosen the filter).

I had to ask. Too bad it wasn't that simple.

You've probably seen this on the videos, but get some silicone grease and lube the threads and o-ring when you put things back together.
 
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