No water

[H2Oseeker]

I am a well novice. Gauge is reading 0 PSI. When I turn on the pump breaker it kicks the pipes and I can hear the pump. I thought the pipes might be clogged because I have a ton of silt (and iron), so I disconnected the pvc pipe right above what I think is called the cap (on the ground where the water pipe and electric go down into the well). Same situation, the water pipe kicks when I hit the breaker but nothing comes out. I thought maybe it lost its prime, but that doesn't really seem possible with a submersible. The only other things I can think of is that the pump is turning on but somehow otherwise not functioning or that it is sucking too much silt and somehow clogged things further down.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance

 

[Boycedrilling]

1. Hole in drop pipe.
2. Pump unscrewed from drop pipe.
3. Dry well.
4. Something else

You need a clamp on amp meter to measure how many amps the pump motor is drawing. If you have or buy one, and feel comfortable using it, you can trouble shoot it. If you don’t, you need to call a pump company. You may also need to be able to determine the depth to water in the well.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[H2Oseeker]

Thanks. I have a clamp on amp meter. Do you have any tips on troubleshooting?

 

[Reach4]

Thanks. I have a clamp on amp meter. Do you have any tips on troubleshooting?

Measure the amps on the power to the pump system while the pump is on. To make that useful, you should know the HP of the pump.

Also confirm that you have regular 240 volt power, and not 120 or 3-phase.

Do you have a control box?

 

[H2Oseeker]

I attached a couple of pics I took earlier. I think one is the control box, which I believe indicates it is a 1.5 hp pump running on 230v. The other pic is just the diagram sticker inside the pressure switch cover. Yesterday I measured 120v on each of the pressure switches 4 terminals (2 lines and 2 loads), I was using the "main spring adjustment" as the ground. I will measure the amps when I get home.

 

[Reach4]

That Franklin Electric 2823008110 label has the good info right there including two current numbers.

That box does not have a run capacitor, so that means that you could measure the current anywhere between the breaker and the wires going down the well. The pressure switch might be an easy-access place.

 

[Valveman]

I believe that box will have a run capacitor. But you can still measure the current on any of the hot wires coming from the breaker or out of the pressure switch. Or you can check current in the control box around the L1 or L2 wires. If the pipe in the well is broke or has a large hole in it, you will see 11 amps or so. If the pump is running dry from no water in the well, or the pump is stopped up or worn out, it will pull much lower than 11 amps, like 5-7 amps.

 

[Boycedrilling]

A couple more potential problems;

4. Stripped splines on motor
5. Water intake strainer plugged with crud, not letting water into Pump
6. Well collapsed

Check the running amps and let us know. Maybe we can narrow the possible problems down a bunch.

 

[H2Oseeker]

Thanks for all the help guys. I got called out of town for a week and just got home to my no water situation. All 4 wires in the pressure switch are right around 2 amps (1.4-2.8A). I measured the 4 wires actually going into the pump also. They were 2.8a, 2.2a, and the other 2 didn't really have current (.2a and .4a). I will try to upload a a GIF showing what it does when I turn it on.

 

[Valveman]

Amperage that low probably means a stripped coupling or broken shaft like Boyce said. Motor still kicks, but isn't turning the pump.

 

[H2Oseeker]

Thanks valveman, that makes sense. I will let this sit for a day in case someone has any cheaper ideas (but it sounds like the pump is done). If i don't hear differently I will just pull it up over the weekend and throw a new one in. Thanks again guys.