No water ! changed switch - motor running

[Reach4]

The price seems low to me, but I think there could be wide range of 2-inch wells. Fully cased (unless there is solid rock below the screens) with 2-inch PVC and suitable screen sections, with appropriate gravel outside of the screens would be better. I expect there is some thing made to a lower standard available. I am not a pro.

Did you get the impression that he does not do 3 or 4 inch wells, or that he just wanted to respect your cash?

 

[Verywellfl]

The price seems low to me, but I think there could be wide range of 2-inch wells. Fully cased (unless there is solid rock below the screens) with 2-inch PVC and suitable screen sections, with appropriate gravel outside of the screens would be better. I expect there is some thing made to a lower standard available. I am not a pro.

Did you get the impression that he does not do 3 or 4 inch wells, or that he just wanted to respect your cash?

He does also commercial drilling so I assume that he does 3 and 4-inch too. But he didn't even want to discuss this option saying I do not need it. Just hoping for the best. Thanks for your input!

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Verywellfl]

The price seems low to me, but I think there could be wide range of 2-inch wells. Fully cased (unless there is solid rock below the screens) with 2-inch PVC and suitable screen sections, with appropriate gravel outside of the screens would be better. I expect there is some thing made to a lower standard available. I am not a pro.

Did you get the impression that he does not do 3 or 4 inch wells, or that he just wanted to respect your cash?

What do you think of a less than 2" well? (Another well driller said 2" is a waste because "house pipe" is less than 1"...After reading up on it, I think well should be 2" and the person just bs me... (he wants $2900, PVC, all others want less than $2300 and would use 2" well, galvanized steel)

 

[Valveman]

Educate yourself! I am an old well driller and pump installer, so I can talk about them. Most drillers/pump installers don't have a clue what they are doing. They just install stuff the same way their fathers did, or keep changing parts until it finally works. A lot of things have changed in the pump industry over the years. There are some old ways that can't be improved upon, and some new things that make pumps systems work much better. Knowing which to use takes some research. Finding someone who really knows pumps and wells and isn't just acting like they do is almost impossible these days. Most pump guys want to put in variable speed pumps and other things that make them a lot of money instead of doing what is best for the customer.

 

[Verywellfl]

Educate yourself! I am an old well driller and pump installer, so I can talk about them. Most drillers/pump installers don't have a clue what they are doing. They just install stuff the same way their fathers did, or keep changing parts until it finally works. A lot of things have changed in the pump industry over the years. There are some old ways that can't be improved upon, and some new things that make pumps systems work much better. Knowing which to use takes some research. Finding someone who really knows pumps and wells and isn't just acting like they do is almost impossible these days. Most pump guys want to put in variable speed pumps and other things that make them a lot of money instead of doing what is best for the customer.

Thank you very much! What you stated confirms my feelings after talking to six of them. But.I have choices:: old fashion carbonized steal, very experienced but maybe not up to date or PVC but iffy regaling experience in my opinion. If any of this people even show up to look at it.... I told them pump is brand new and that I will digg the trench and run the new water line myself. I only need the well or better can only afford the well

 

[Reach4]

Be clear that you are getting a drilled well, if in fact you are. Normally sand points would not be PVC AFAIK.

What is your concern with PVC?

 

[Verywellfl]

Be clear that you are getting a drilled well, if in fact you are. Normally sand points would not be PVC AFAIK.

What is your concern with PVC?

Thanks! The PVC person has rotary well also two inch well on this website. . But first he said 2" would be overkill because house pipes are smaller. When I called back to ask about it again he stated two inch. That makes me nervous but he's the only one offering PVC.

 

[Reach4]

I would think that anybody offering steel is planning to pound a sand point. I could be wrong. But I think you should know what you are buying.

There exists stainless steel pipe that could be used to drive a sand point, but that is expensive.

 

[Verywellfl]

I would think that anybody offering steel is planning to pound a sand point. I could be wrong. But I think you should know what you are buying.

There exists stainless steel pipe that could be used to drive a sand point, but that is expensive.

I'm waiting for two quotes - with details of what they will use/do. Two stated galvanized steel, not stainless steel. I read up on things before and definitely won't move forward without a detailed quote. ( I guess that's why the first guy " disappeared")

 

[Reach4]

A drilled well in most of Florida would have one or more areas of screen, which is typically slotted PVC. Then "gravel" is put outside of the slots, and serves to block sand and other sediment, and the gravel is too small to go through the slots for the most part.

The gravel is not what you see on roads or driveways, but looks more like a rather course sand. So my reason for bringing this up is to see if they plan to drill the well, insert casing, and put gravel outside of the screen. My comments are from reading and not from experience.

A lot of people are fine with sand points. You might ask the neighbors what their wells are like, and if they give good and sufficient water.

 

[Verywellfl]

A drilled well in most of Florida would have one or more areas of screen, which is typically slotted PVC. Then "gravel" is put outside of the slots, and serves to block sand and other sediment, and the gravel is too small to go through the slots for the most part.

The gravel is not what you see on roads or driveways, but looks more like a rather course sand. So my reason for bringing this up is to see if they plan to drill the well, insert casing, and put gravel outside of the screen. My comments are from reading and not from experience.

A lot of people are fine with sand points. You might ask the neighbors what their wells are like, and if they give good and sufficient water.

I will definitely follow up on this! Thanks for making me aware! They were talking about heavy equipment ( I have to cut down a tree) and that the casing will be galvanized steel...and shouldn't they state "sand point" instead of "well" if appropriate? But I won't count on it...I have to follow up tomorrow anyway. Neighbors might not know what they have ...but I'll ask when I'm back.( Needed to "couch surf" after 10 days without water ..not going back before I have at least a written quote.)

 

[Reach4]

If you close the valve after the pressure tank, you can connect a helpful neighbor's house to yours with a long hose and probably a female-female hose adapter. One end goes on the neighbor's hose spigot, and the other end on yours.

You can find hoses that are rated for potable water. But if you are just taking baths or flushing toilets, the cheaper hoses could do the job.

Now if your nearest helpful neighbor is a quarter mile away, that is not going to be practical.

I don't know the local practice there.

I would not think a sand point would need taking down a tree. Conventionally they were inserted with a big hammer, I would think they would use an electric or pneumatic jackhammer now. You might offend him if he was going to give you a drilled well and you thought he was going to just put in a sand point. Or maybe not.

PVC normal for drilled residential wells unless it is something really deep. If you can get 3 inch PVC, you could use a submersible pump. Quiet and more efficient. Otherwise you will have a jet pump. The configuration would depend on how deep the water is.

 

[Verywellfl]

If you close the valve after the pressure tank, you can connect a helpful neighbor's house to yours with a long hose and probably a female-female hose adapter. One end goes on the neighbor's hose spigot, and the other end on yours.

You can find hoses that are rated for potable water. But if you are just taking baths or flushing toilets, the cheaper hoses could do the job.

Now if your nearest helpful neighbor is a quarter mile away, that is not going to be practical.

I don't know the local practice there.

I would not think a sand point would need taking down a tree. Conventionally they were inserted with a big hammer, I would think they would use an electric or pneumatic jackhammer now. You might offend him if he was going to give you a drilled well and you thought he was going to just put in a sand point. Or maybe not.

PVC normal for drilled residential wells unless it is something really deep. If you can get 3 inch PVC, you could use a submersible pump. Quiet and more efficient. Otherwise you will have a jet pump. The configuration would depend on how deep the water is.

Thanks again! When I'm back, I'll ask a neighbor if I can hook up. The hoses I have should reach my backyard- better than nothing! (Wouldn't drink it anyway).

I'll wait till I receive a quote before asking about sand points. ( A while ago I thought about a DIY sand point for my backyard/ gardening. I had no idea that it could be (good ) enough for " house" water. )

All of the " drillers" offered only a 2". Maybe because of the area/location and small home. Since I just bought a brand new pump, I don't want to buy another one anyway.

By now I just hope the "PVC" guy will follow through..