Nibco 62/762 frost proof sill cock disassembly and repair.

[CaptainMorgan]

I have two Nibco 62/762 sill cocks on my house that are leaking. The house was built in the 70s and these are probably all original. I want to get the innards out to replace the seals.

I have tried removing the innards to replace the washers to no avail. Nothing is coming out.
According to the plate attached to one of them I should only need to "1. Unscrew bonnet" and "2. Pull out assembly".
Yeah, not budging. I'm afraid to yank on it any harder and break something. I've even used a little leverage with no effect.

I've tried with the valve open, closed and half open with no difference.

I've attached two cell phone pics of the sill cock. The thread where the bonnet crews on is cast into the body and not removable.

The only thing I have been able to find on the net is an identification guide on Nibco's site. It is located 3/4 of the way down the page and listed as "Historical Sillcock Identification".
http://www.nibco.com/Resources/Technical-Bulletins/

All it shows is a drawing, some washer sizes (nice) and if you replace the whole thing use a "Nibco Figure 95C half-turn sillcock". Nothing more on disassembly.

So how do I get this 'sucker' apart? Do I just need to yank harder? Any tricks? One of them is not attached to the brick anymore so pulling harder is not much of an option (without a second pair of hands anyway).

Thanks in advance!

 

[Benzine kid]

I have the same problem but haven't started to fix it yet. I think the problem is you need to remove the bonnet that screws into the valve body. You have only removed the packing nut. The bonnet looks like it is integral to the valve body but I don't think it is. The following is from the patent....
Adjacent its outer extremity, the valve stem has a shoulder 34, which is abutted by a collar member 36a'on the bonnet 36 to limit outward movement and properly position the stem lengthwise of the valve body. The bonnet 36 is threadedly engaged into the outer end of the valve body 12, in the manner indicated. A packing nut 38 is in turn threadedly engaged upon the bonnet 36, so that the packing 39 within the nut 38 effects a seal about the valve stem, in a manner that is generally known.

Let me know if my assumption is correct.
Thanks, Benzine kid

I have two Nibco 62/762 sill cocks on my house that are leaking. The house was built in the 70s and these are probably all original. I want to get the innards out to replace the seals.

I have tried removing the innards to replace the washers to no avail. Nothing is coming out.
According to the plate attached to one of them I should only need to "1. Unscrew bonnet" and "2. Pull out assembly".
Yeah, not budging. I'm afraid to yank on it any harder and break something. I've even used a little leverage with no effect.

I've tried with the valve open, closed and half open with no difference.

I've attached two cell phone pics of the sill cock. The thread where the bonnet crews on is cast into the body and not removable.

The only thing I have been able to find on the net is an identification guide on Nibco's site. It is located 3/4 of the way down the page and listed as "Historical Sillcock Identification".
http://www.nibco.com/Resources/Technical-Bulletins/

All it shows is a drawing, some washer sizes (nice) and if you replace the whole thing use a "Nibco Figure 95C half-turn sillcock". Nothing more on disassembly.

So how do I get this 'sucker' apart? Do I just need to yank harder? Any tricks? One of them is not attached to the brick anymore so pulling harder is not much of an option (without a second pair of hands anyway).

Thanks in advance!

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Smooky]

Take a look at this, it should help:

 

[CaptainMorgan]

Take a look at this, it should help:

Would you look at that. One step closer, but still stuck.
I finally had a spare hour and after breaking out the pipe wrench (instead of the adjustable wrench I had tried before) I got what I assume is the actual bonnet nut off. Thanks Benzine Kid and Smooky.

Problem: The assembly is still not coming out. Pulling and turning both ways to try and unscrew it does nothing.
Again all the moronic ID plate says is: "Pull out assembly".

 

[Reach4]

Did you turn the blue handle CCW?

 

[CaptainMorgan]

Well after pounding on the handles (and breaking one handle grip area off its center portion, I'm going to need a new handle) for about 15 minutes apiece I got the assemblies out. There is apparently nothing holding them in place once the bonnet nut is unscrewed, except 45 years of crap. I did turn the handle to the about halfway open position but I don't think that makes a difference.

There is a 'cage' that doesn't like to fit past the threads but a hammer blow or two forced it out.

What a pain in the ..... posterior.

I bent the copper rod of the assembly a bit, hopefully it doesn't affect the operation.

 

[CaptainMorgan]

Well, they are both back in and not leaking.
There 'cage' has two arms that fit into slots on either side of the pipe, so make sure they are lined up correctly.
Even after a light scrub I sill needed to pound the assembly back into place with a hammer.
Next time they start leaking it maybe time to just replace them.

 

[Smooky]

Historical NIBCO® Sillcock Identification
In this link click on “Historical Sillcock Identification”
http://www.nibco.com/Resources/Technical-Bulletins/

 

[CaptainMorgan]

Historical NIBCO® Sillcock Identification
In this link click on “Historical Sillcock Identification”
http://www.nibco.com/Resources/Technical-Bulletins/

Yeah, I linked to that in my original post. It does give the washer / o-ring sizes and the 'replace with' assembly type but no help on disassembly.

 

[foxkr]

Please help. I'm going through same thing. Want to replace as we are on a slab and there is water leaking in our house even with faucet turned off. Do you have a diagram or hand drawing to explain your steps and terms? I really don't want to wait for plumber on Monday if I can fix it tonight/this weekend.

 

[Barb24]

I'm really glad I found this forum. I was completely stuck at trying to get the bonnet off, but after hearing how much trouble it was I used 2 wrenches, one against each other to prevent wringing off the faucet itself because mine too has become detached from the wall. I then had as much problem getting the assembly out as CaptainMorgan. If I hadn't already seen his description, I'd have given up. I ended up using a pair of needle-nose pliers that are bent at a 90degree angle to hold the shaft of the assembly and pry it out. Once out, taking it apart was easy enough. However, I'd bought a set of rings and beveled washers that came in an assortment from Lowe's. Nothing in it was the right size. So, I ended up at Home Depot where I at least found the right o rings and washer. Meanwhile, I'd left all the brass fittings sitting in a bowl with ketchup to remove some of the corrosion off of the pieces. So now, once assembled the next challenge was getting it back in place. It starts to slide in easily but the last inch or so would not move. I finally used a rubber mallet to bang it in until the screws on the parts could meet and pull it in the rest of the way.