New well tank

[Willrt87]

Hi I recently bought a new house with a well. Since I moved in I noticed the pump running every 10-30 seconds for like 10 seconds when running water. The water pressure was ok but when the pump would kick on the water pressure was really good. So I did a little research on checking if the tank was good.

The check valve says 30/50 on it but when i checked it the pump was kicking on at 35 and shutting down at 40. So I tried adjusting it and noticed if it was set to shut off at 50 it would just keep running if the water was on. After getting it to turn on at 30 I drained the tank and tried putting 28 psi in the tank but it would not take I could get it to 10 but it took awhile. So I figured i needed a new tank and maybe a new switch. I don't know anything about the age of the equipment or their specs.

Now my question is should i buy a new tank and switch and if so what should I be looking at?
Any help would be appreciated thanks.

Here are some pictures of what i have.

 

[Valveman]

A WM6 only holds 6 gallons of water when it is working properly. And it is a bladder style tank, which is not nearly as good as a diaphragm tank. Sounds like you have more than one problem. The tank and switch are most likely bad. And if your pump cannot build to 50 with one faucet open, the pump is not putting out much either. Cycling on and off is what destroys the bladder in the tank as well as shortens the life of the pump. Now would be a good time to switch to a Cycle Stop Valve system using one of the PK1A kits designed to replace big pressure tanks and eliminate cycling. This will give you strong constant pressure to the house, but you may have to replace the pump before it can deliver the water you need.

 

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[LLigetfa]

And if your pump cannot build to 50 with one faucet open, the pump is not putting out much either.

Sounds like it could be a bigger issue than just a tank and switch. The OP did not say how much water is drawn when the pump won't shut off. When my wife fills her soaker tub my pump won't shut off either but that soaker tub draws a lot at once.

I would run some tests to see how much pressure the pump can produce when there is no draw. Then I would test how many GPM the pump can produce at a few different pressures to check it against standard pump curves.

Judging by the pictures, that is a very old well and who knows how old the pump is. It could have a clogged intake or worn impellers.

 

[Reach4]

The check valve says 30/50

I suspect you meant to say pressure switch, but if not, you probably want to get rid of that above-ground check valve when you replace the pressure tank. Click Inbox above.

 

[Willrt87]

Yeah this is all new to me I was talking about the switch in the picture. And for the pump hitting the 50 psi I had my wash tub sink open all the way it's just a valve that would have a garden hose hooked to it.

 

[Reach4]

You might have a switch problem. You might have a pump problem. But you do have a pressure tank problem. I would change the pressure tank before considering if the pump has a problem.

You could put in a new pressure switch on the theory that while you are changing the tank, the pressure switch is not expensive. Changing it, even if the old one is good, is a reasonable thing to do.

 

[Willrt87]

Thanks for the info. So is there any way to tell if my pump is ok and what kind of tank should I look into. Also within the next year n half to 2 years in supposed to get public water. Need to get by till then but also wouldn't mind the well working for watering a garden.

 

[Reach4]

Thanks for the info. So is there any way to tell if my pump is ok and what kind of tank should I look into.

Did the info make sense? Was there some specific info that you wanted more detail about?

 

[Willrt87]

Yes since I know I need a new tank what tanks should I look into and what switch? And how would I diagnose my pump to be faulty?

 

[Reach4]

Yes since I know I need a new tank what tanks should I look into

Click Inbox, above.

 

[Valveman]

Click Inbox, above.

I want to know too?

 

[Willrt87]

Thanks for the tank info I would probably go for the cheaper one because eventually ill be connected to public water. Before i buy I'm gonna look into checking my pump to make sure its gonna be good enough.

 

[Reach4]

Before i buy I'm gonna look into checking my pump to make sure its gonna be good enough.

(post #3) I would run some tests to see how much pressure the pump can produce when there is no draw. Then I would test how many GPM the pump can produce at a few different pressures to check it against standard pump curves.

What that means is that while you are not using water, force the pump on. You can do that by holding the pressure switch "on" by pushing the swinger with an insulated tool for several seconds. Watch the pressure gauge peak and level out, and see where it peaks out. Then for your pressure switch, make sure the cut-out pressure is at least 5 pounds less than that peak pressure.

Note that your old pressure tank uses a 1 inch connection, and it is 1.25 for a 44 gallon tank. I am just pointing that out for when you buy fittings.

 

[Willrt87]

My setup doesnt have a pressure gauge so does using the air valve on the top of tank still work the same? If it does it goes above 60 a little but it jumps from 50 to 60 instantly.

 

[Valveman]

Thanks for the info. So is there any way to tell if my pump is ok and what kind of tank should I look into. Also within the next year n half to 2 years in supposed to get public water. Need to get by till then but also wouldn't mind the well working for watering a garden.

I hate when anyone shuts down a perfectly good well to use "city water". Well water is usually much better than city water. Even if you have to treat it or use a softener it is still better to have control of your own destiny. What happens when the city starts charging more for water than gasoline? What happens when the city decides to change water sources and puts acidic water down the lines like in Flint? I had much rather be in control of my own water than trust any government official.

You really can't afford city water for a garden. And if you keep the pump to use for the garden, there is no reason it cannot supply the house as well. Yes you can get a WX25o tank for $439 here as Reach found
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Amtrol-WX-250-WX-250-145S1-44-Gal-WELL-X-TROL-Well-Tank-Stand

Or you can get the same tank from a box store for $269 here
https://www.menards.com/main/plumbi...153238829.htm?tid=4985620210053771749&ipos=17

But a CSV1A at $174 with a 4.5 gallon tank at $75, total $249 will do a better job than the old pressure tank only method. Plus with the CSV you will have constant "city like" pressure in the house. And since you are in control of your own water this way, you can turn up the pressure of the switch and CSV and have much better than "city like" pressure if you want. With a CSV set up you shouldn't have to worry about your water for many years. You have almost got all of this figured out. No sense in just giving full control to the city and paying extra for lower quality water in the process.

 

[LLigetfa]

I hate when anyone shuts down a perfectly good well to use "city water". Well water is usually much better than city water. Even if you have to treat it or use a softener it is still better to have control of your own destiny. What happens when the city starts charging more for water than gasoline? What happens when the city decides to change water sources and puts acidic water down the lines like in Flint? I had much rather be in control of my own water than trust any government official.

I agree. It is a lot cheaper to have your own water source. Keep in mind that many city water departments also put a sewer surcharge in the price of the water so you're paying twice even if it doesn't go into their sewer.

Some folks think that city water is more reliable so they needn't be worried about their pump dying in the middle of Winter. My father in law had his city water line freeze and he had to do without water for two months until it thawed in spring.

 

[Willrt87]

Yeah I was thinking of getting the $269 one. Yeah I don't really want to be spending the money to pay for public water and sewage but I figured it would make my house worth more in the long run in case I ever decided to sell. But I never intended to shut the well down.

 

[Willrt87]

I read up on the CSV and that is really cool I like the idea on how it works. Does the tanks size not matter for that? And I dont know if my pump is strong enough for that.

 

[Valveman]

I read up on the CSV and that is really cool I like the idea on how it works. Does the tanks size not matter for that? And I dont know if my pump is strong enough for that.

Yeah with the CSV the tank size is almost a moot point. The 4.5 gallon size tank is plenty for a house system. And you are probably right about the pump. But if it won't build to 50 and shut off while a hose is on, the pump is on its last leg anyway.