New well setup

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Derek 66

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Hello,

Just got our new well drilled at the cottage, please advise if setup I will describe will work correctly (spring installation).
1. 3-season cottage, no basement, no "usage" in the winter, distance to the well from pressure tank 15'
2. 4" well drilled to around 200+ feet, well production at 4+ gpm, recommended pump setting at 180'
3. not possible to install pitiless adapter below frost line - solid rock, maybe a a foot or two, but still no basement for pressure tank anyway

a. 3/4hp ecoflow EFSUB7-123 12gpm pump with 207 head & 1 1/4" outlet
b. 1 1/4" poly pipe up to the pitiless adapter (or 1" is better?)
c. halfway up 1 1/4" check valve (is it really needed?)
d. 5' before pitiless adapter drain back valve (to drain/eliminate water from above frost line in the winter) or is there a better way?
e. 1 1/4" pitiless adapter
f. 1 1/4" poly pipe up to pressure tank (or 1" is better?)
g. before tank "T" with all the stuff: air release valve to purge the air introduced by drain back valve (if needed?) + cycle stop valve (if needed?) + 1 1/4" check valve

Please let me know if I missed any info and your thoughts.

Derek
 

Reach4

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a. 3/4hp ecoflow EFSUB7-123 12gpm pump with 207 head & 1 1/4" outlet
What are you thinking? I know. Cheap. Do you think that pump can deliver 60 psi to your house if the water falls to near the pump? A 7 gpm 3/4 pump would be the right size IMO. If you want to go cheap, you would probably have to go to 1.5 hp. You would also need to make sure it would fit into a 4 inch well. In an uncased 4 inch well, I might be thinking of a "3 inch" SQ pump. Or at least a slimline/trimline pump. Not sure. Maybe the hole in the rock is bigger than 4 inch.
3. not possible to install pitiless adapter below frost line - solid rock, maybe a a foot or two, but still no basement for pressure tank anyway
What do you have in mind to keep the piping from freezing? Ah, yes, drainback valve down the well.

Your pitless won't be a trapezoid type, unless you expand the casing at that level to at least 5 inch. My pitless on my 4 inch steel well is a Merrill SMCK-4, which does not reduce the diameter of the casing, so you can put a 4-inch pump in.

g. before tank "T" with all the stuff: air release valve to purge the air introduced by drain back valve (if needed?) + cycle stop valve (if needed?) + 1 1/4" check valve
Ah, drain back. I am not sure a CSV fits that use, but I am not sure.

You will want an "air over water" tank with an AVC (air volume control) to release excess air.
 
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Derek 66

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Not a small update, my bad. I just rechecked drillers paperwork. Size if the casing is 6" x 20', and down from there it's a size of drill bit 5-6".
So I think pump will fit. question is, is the pump I have good or completely no go.
Then size of poly piping, 1" or 1 1/4".
On my other property with well (with basement and all the stuff below frost line) I have CSV with regular/bladder pressure tank and it seems to work like a charm. Mind you I do not have to have there drain back valve/air release valve plus well is only 100' deep.
 

VAWellDriller

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In a normal residential setup; 1" drop pipe and waterline is more than adequate. One check valve at or near the pump discharge. You do need a air/water tank, not a bladder tank, and CSV's do not always work well on the bleeder system depending on what equipment the installer chooses (the CSV will work fine, but the components of the bleeder/drain back may not like the back pressure). I would buy a reputable name brand pump, and I agree with the above mentioned 3/4 HP 7 gpm pick.
 

Valveman

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All good advice from above. If a drain back system is the only way to keep it from freezing, you will need a regular air over water tank, not a bladder. Although I can make a CSV work with a drain back and a air over water tank, I don't think it would be of much benefit. With a drain back and a air over water tank you need the pump to cycle quite a bit, as that is how it gets its air charge. A CSV would impede that action somewhat. Although, if this pump is used for irrigation or anything long term, eliminating the cycling is still important to make the pump last.
 
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