New Well, Need Advice on Systems

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Reach4

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my well driller suggested 2 gallons of bleach in my well, one guy said he wants to use 12 gallons, whoa.. is that nuts or is that about right??
8" well, static water at 200ish 600' deep.
I don't know if 12 gallons is too much. It may be based on experience, and if you are far from the bleach store, you could have extra at hand in case I do need more. I definately do expect 2 gallons is not enough. You can use calculations, as a better starting point, but you should also consider pH. The calculations would involve alkalinity to better compute the needed amounts I think. I think there is a better way. that you may think is nuts. It can take a long time for the chlorine to get to the bottom if you don't have casing to the bottom. Pellets can get chlorine down there. But there is more. The first line of https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/well-sanitizing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ has a link to a nice sanitizing article, but then I go into my possibly-overkill extension. That is mostly aimed at a bottom feeding well. My well has casing all of the way down. You may find some info there that you may adapt to your well.

http://aesl.ces.uga.edu/publications/watercirc/ShockChlorination.pdf brings up some extra consideration if you have arsenic. I don't have much arsenic, so I don't take that into account. That publication suggests
3.915 gallons of bleach for (600-200)=4oo ft of 8 inch if I did that right. But are they using the bleach concentration I would want? I think bleach gets consumed by what it meets in the well, so measuring the chlorine level with high-range test strips lets you compensate for that.

Your well has about 27x as much sanding water as mine. (cross section 4x and water column 6.66x). I think I used 1 gallon of 8% bleach. I think I used 2 gallons of vinegar too.:eek:I went lower pH than the minimums, and you can't go super low on pH with vinegar. There is a pH range, and I wanted to be lower pH than the max needed.
 
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however hardly any of them were familiar or recommended a CSV. i guess they are not very popular around here...

They are very popular with homeowners, farmers, golf courses, etc. We have a lot of distributors in CA. But they try not to mention the CSV to their installers as it cost less and makes pumps last longer than other more profitable pump control methods. Use the pump control methods that pump manufacturers are advertising and you are putting money in their pockets. Use the methods they don't want you to know about, and you get to keep a lot more of your own money.
 

BadDad

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They are very popular with homeowners, farmers, golf courses, etc. We have a lot of distributors in CA. But they try not to mention the CSV to their installers as it cost less and makes pumps last longer than other more profitable pump control methods. Use the pump control methods that pump manufacturers are advertising and you are putting money in their pockets. Use the methods they don't want you to know about, and you get to keep a lot more of your own money.

i kind of figured that. the one guy kept telling me about how great VFD systems are and how far they've come over time...
 

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Yeah, well computers are great too, but they are constantly being upgraded for better performance. Same thing with a VFD pump, except that the pump is usually 300+' feet in the ground and consequently harder to get to.
 

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i kind of figured that. the one guy kept telling me about how great VFD systems are and how far they've come over time...

I started hearing that in 1992, and they still say it today because the laws of physics will not let them solve the inherent problems with VFD's. They are making better Band Aids these days, but they cannot solve the problems. A few computer bugs just keeps the cash flowing, which they like much better than if your pump is reliable and they don't hear from you for 30 years.
 

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So i'm still waiting on bids for my well setup. meanwhile i've been doing some reading and talking to neighbors. One of my neighbors has a HUGE 1000 gallon pressure tank, a 5000 gallon cistern and two booster pumps. very nice and clean setup. I kind of like it to be honest.
Do you guys have any suggestions on where i could look for a 1000 gallon pressure tank?

Also, i've talked to one well service company who can set my own pump if i buy it. They will only charge an installation fee, obviously no warranty on the pump.

That might be another option for me, i've been looking at pumps and motors. However i have not seen how the two are connected, is there any special tools or procedures required to connect a motor to a pump? most pumps have the information, such as a 5hp motor required.

is it as straight forward as finding the right sized (ie 4" 50gmp) pump and the right sized (5hp single phase) motor and connecting them?
 

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So i'm still waiting on bids for my well setup. meanwhile i've been doing some reading and talking to neighbors. One of my neighbors has a HUGE 1000 gallon pressure tank, a 5000 gallon cistern and two booster pumps. very nice and clean setup. I kind of like it to be honest.
Do you guys have any suggestions on where i could look for a 1000 gallon pressure tank?

Try Bulldog tanks. A good 1000 gallon pressure tank will only cost about $10,000.00. And a 1000 gallon pressure tank only holds about 150 gallons of water, the rest is air. That set up would work well for a city with about 5,000 people. It is way overkill for a single house. I would never use a storage tank if the well will produce enough water. 5000 gallons sitting in a storage tank and another 150 gallons is a pressure tank will certainly need some chlorine to keep from growing stuff in the water. Straight from the well is always fresh and doesn't need chlorine, not to mention will cost a lot less.

Also, i've talked to one well service company who can set my own pump if i buy it. They will only charge an installation fee, obviously no warranty on the pump.

That might be another option for me, i've been looking at pumps and motors. However i have not seen how the two are connected, is there any special tools or procedures required to connect a motor to a pump? most pumps have the information, such as a 5hp motor required.

is it as straight forward as finding the right sized (ie 4" 50gmp) pump and the right sized (5hp single phase) motor and connecting them?

Most companies have adopted Nema standard for pump and motor connections. That means any brand of pump should fit any brand of motor. There is just a splined shaft to align then four bolts with nuts to tighten. Then usually the screen and cable guard are attached. But there are a lot of new and unusual brands of pumps out there these days. Just ask if they have the Nema standard connection.
 

Reach4

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is it as straight forward as finding the right sized (ie 4" 50gmp) pump and the right sized (5hp single phase) motor and connecting them?
At this rate, you will be looking for a 6 inch pump next month. ;)

There are 6 inch pump ends that can fit onto 6 inch or 4 inch motors.
 
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BadDad

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Don't give me more ideas! Lol

Spoke with tiger tanks, the 1000 gallon pressure tank holds 600+ gallons of water and is $6,000.
 

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Don't give me more ideas! Lol

Spoke with tiger tanks, the 1000 gallon pressure tank holds 600+ gallons of water and is $6,000.

And you will get that 600 gallons at an ever decreasing pressure. The pressure will drop from 60 all the way down to 40 PSI as that 600 gallons is used. Your paying 6000 bucks to have bad pressure.
 

BadDad

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Finally locked it in, grundfos 5hp 35gpm pump. 3 119g tanks with a simcom pump saver on it. all installed, plumbed and electrical with a 3 year warranty for $8900.
 

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Good for you. Now when you get tired of the pump cycling on and off, the varying pressure, and all the problems that go with cycling, all you have to do is add a CSV and remove a couple of those tanks to get strong constant pressure to the house.
 

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SHIT! so I had my water samples sent to the lab.. all are good except the found Arsenic in the water....
FÜCK.... not what i wanted to hear.
level is 17, they say max allowed is 10... id rather have 0

what kind of filtration system do you guys suggest?
 

Reach4

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SHIT! so I had my water samples sent to the lab.. all are good except the found Arsenic in the water....
Katalox light can remove arsenic if there is enough iron. Post your iron level too.

A reverse osmosis system removes arsenic. You can use that for drinking and cooking and cleaning. Search for prior suggestions on what an RO system would be better to have. A remineralization stage is good for drinking water, but you would also like to have water that is not remineralized for cleaning. You should be able to spray non-remineralized RO water on your eyeglasses or mirrors generously as a rinse, and then you don't need to wipe off the drops.

If "permeate pump" does not come up prominently in your searches, search better.
 

BadDad

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The limit here used to be 50. When they changed it to 10 a lot of community water systems had to put in expensive treatment systems. Many are still waiting on grants to get started on that. Some of those have been living with 13 to 18 or more for a hundred years without any problems.

One lady in the newspaper said most everyone in her community lives past 90 years old. Most people don't think it is worth the trouble and expense to treat from 18 to 10. That is like the difference between 18 and 10 grains of salt in an Olympic size swimming pool.

Very little of the total water pumped is drinking or cooking water. You could just put a little RO system under the sink for drinking water. But I am not sure that the loss of electrolytes and minerals from the RO water is any better for consumption than a tiny amount of Arsenic.
 

Reach4

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http://www.who.int/water_sanitation_health/dwq/chemicals/iron.pdf says
Iron (as Fe2+) concentrations of 40 µg/litre can be detected by taste in distilled water. In a mineralized spring water with a total dissolved solids content of 500 mg/litre, the taste threshold value was 0.12 mg/litre. In well-water, iron concentrations below 0.3 mg/litre were characterized as unnoticeable, whereas levels of 0.3–3 mg/litre were found acceptable (E. Dahi, personal communication, 1991).​

It seems to me that even tho your iron is less than the SMCL, the taste would probably be improved by removing the iron incidentally to removing iron. There have been some observations of KL raising the pH.

Selected items from my raw water test:
Arsenic, total 0.006 mg/L EPA 200.8 08/06/15 NHM MCL**=0.01 mg/L
Iron, total 0.39 mg/L EPA 200.7 08/05/15 JHB MCL**=[0.3 mg/L]
PH 7.8 S.U. SM 4500-H B 08/06/15 AJK MCL**=6.5-8.5su​
From test of water after my iron+H2S backwashing filter (Centaur Carbon):
Arsenic, total <0.002 mg/L EPA 200.8 09/28/15 NHM MCL**=0.01 mg/L
Iron, total <0.01 mg/L EPA 200.7 09/28/15 JHB MCL**=[0.3 mg/L]
PH 7.6 S.U. SM 4500-H B 09/28/15 AJK MCL**=6.5-8.5su​
I would expect a similar result with KL, although dissolved oxygen differences should have an effect..

http://www.waterboards.ca.gov/drinking_water/certlic/drinkingwater/Arsenic.shtml says that the earlier standard was 0.050 instead of the current 0.010 mg/L.
 
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