New underground hose supply line advice

[Brian.Hoard]

Hi,
I am planing to relocate my exterior hose bib from it's current location, where it has copper pipe running down an exterior wall next to my Elect Circuit breaker panel, to a better location. I would like to run a new hose supply through my crawl space, and exit through the foundation. Then underground to about 20 feet from the house.
There isn't an exit point through the foundation wall now, so I'm not sure of the best way to get my water supply out of the house.
On the front of the house, the well supply enters underground through the foundation. But not sure the best procedure for making this happen.

Thanks for any advice.

- Brian

 

[Dj2]

Why not just continue from the spot you have it now?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Brian.Hoard]

The hose bib location is currently far from where we actually use it. And as we are getting new siding installed on the house, and the hose bib needed to be replaced for this. I figured it's a good time to move it to a better location.
Currently, to use our hose, we run one hose from this bib, under our deck and attach it to a hose reel in the back yard. So that's where I'd like to put the new hose bib and get rid of this extra hose.

 

[Smooky]

If you have a crawl space you could install a frost proof hose bibb. If you want it twenty feet away from the house you could could install a yard hydrant.

http://www.woodfordmfg.com/woodford/HowAFaucet/How a Standard Frost-Proof Faucet Works.pdf

http://www.woodfordmfg.com/woodford/Installation/How Hydrant Works.pdf

 

[Brian.Hoard]

Thanks Smooky, yes the yard hydrant is exactly what I need! I didn't know what it was called.
I do have a crawl space, but because the deck is in front of it, I can't put the bib under the deck. If you can see the pictures in my previous post.
The crawl space is only where the deck is. The left side of the photo, that part of the house is on a concrete slab.
So I would like to add a new underground water supply to a yard hydrant. I can get piping into my crawl space no problem. But what is the best way to go through the foundation? I'm thinking maybe 1" black poly pipe? But how does it work where plumbing has to exit through the foundation? Is there any links or drawings or information I can read how that is done? I'm not having any luck searching for this online. Thanks again for your help!

 

[Reach4]

Are you going to run the pipe below the frost line, or will you blow out the water before freezing weather?

A core drill is the good way to go through masonry. You can rent the tool.

 

[Smooky]

I would rent a big hammer drill with a bit long enough to drill all the way through and big enough to easily get the pipe through. I rent them from Home Depot tool rental when needed. Some times I use a star drill, it's the old fashion way. I would dig down to the foundation and drill through the wall. You want it deep enough so it will not freeze in winter. Put a cut off valve on the inside just in case it freezes or gets run over. That way you want have to shut everything off if there is a problem with it. Some people recommend a back flow preventer before the pipe leaves the house such as a watts #7.

 

[Brian.Hoard]

Thanks for the advice. So it sounds like I can handle making the hole. Then what would you recommend for the actual piping? Do I run a 3" PVC pipe through my foundation hole as a conduit? Then run 1" black poly pipe inside of that? Then what is the best way to seal this exit point where the pipe leaves the foundation? I'm guessing there is some sort of fitting used just for this? Not sure.

Reach4, I plan on blowing out the line before winter. I'll be installing a shut off valve inside the house with a drain on it for winterizing the line. But since I'm going to be digging, I think I can stay below the frost line as well. I believe here in Virginia, the frost line may be 24". So I was thinking to be 36" underground when I come out of the crawl space.
I know code in our area will require a backflow preventer.

 

[Craigpump]

You can use 3/4 poly. We use hydraulic cement to make the seal around the pipe. A conduit is ok, but now you have to seal the conduit and the poly pipe, 2 x the chances of a leak.

It's easier to drill from the inside the house, besides you don't want that expensive hammer drill laying in the dirt.

An inside ball valve is a good idea, every hydrant I have installed has a built in drain so it doesn't freeze. When you shut the water off, a bleeder hole lets the water out of the stand pipe.

 

[Reach4]

When you shut the water off, a bleeder hole lets the water out of the stand pipe.

Do you put some gravel under the standpipe to accept the water? I guess the pipe doesn't have to drain fast, so that gravel may be unneeded.

 

[Craigpump]

It's probably not more than a quart of water that drains out of the riser pipe, so no we don't use gravel or crushed stone. Besides they are sold by bury depth and if the thing is buried below frost, the water that drains won't freeze.