New Toilet Tie In

[Claraarcher]

Hi Again,

another question if you please. If i go the route of opening the ceiling i think that will work out so long as inspectors says ok.

Thinking about the waste lines i am curious if i can use one 2" vent for the toilet and vanity as shown in Red or should i use a separate tee connection to the 3" waste with separate 1.5 vent line tied into the 2" vent line that i drew in blue on the attached?

thanks again!!

edit - i think i mixed up the last two 90s - the one to the stack (horizontal to vertical) should be a short radius and the one that goes through the joist (horizontal to horizontal) should be a long radius.

 

[Claraarcher]

Hi Again,

another question if you please. If i go the route of opening the ceiling i think that will work out so long as inspectors says ok.

Thinking about the waste lines i am curious if i can use one 2" vent for the toilet and vanity as shown in Red or should i use a separate tee connection to the 3" waste with separate 1.5 vent line tied into the 2" vent line that i drew in blue on the attached?

thanks again!!

edit - i think i mixed up the last two 90s - the one to the stack (horizontal to vertical) should be a short radius and the one that goes through the joist (horizontal to horizontal) should be a long radius.

oops ignore anything that say 4" other than the closet bend they are 3"

Does this make sense or i am that far off?

Thanks!

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Claraarcher]

OK so i drilled some holes and took a shot at it (hopefully not a bad move

the Tee is picking up the vanity and the 2" vent that ties into the main vent. not cut to length yet and needs adjusting a bit

i decided to use the 3x2 wye to connect to shower drain as that seem the best? way to go. I will need to use a few 90's to get around an hvac duct but that's not too bad.

Please let me know your thoughts - i have never glued up 3" pipe but the only tricky connection i think is going to be the 90' that ties into the 3x1.5 wye as it is a tight fit and i already had to cut out some of the joist which i dont like doing but it was minimal.

Thanks!!

 

[wwhitney]

A few quick comments:

- The layout looks fine, assuming that's the 3" street 90 going into the 3x3x2 wye is long turn. Closet flanges with metal flanges are better than the all plastic type.

- If "a few 90s" refers to a drain, that's not so good, you'd want 0 or 1 if possible. If it refers to a vent, that's OK.

- If you've dry fit everything, for glue up you will need to cut longer pipe segments, as dry fit does not fully seat. That will also affect your street fitting joints, so you might want to carefully glue up that 3 piece configuration first, re dry fit, and then measure for final pipe segments.


Cheers, Wayne

 

[Claraarcher]

A few quick comments:

- The layout looks fine, assuming that's the 3" street 90 going into the 3x3x2 wye is long turn. Closet flanges with metal flanges are better than the all plastic type.

- If "a few 90s" refers to a drain, that's not so good, you'd want 0 or 1 if possible. If it refers to a vent, that's OK.

- If you've dry fit everything, for glue up you will need to cut longer pipe segments, as dry fit does not fully seat. That will also affect your street fitting joints, so you might want to carefully glue up that 3 piece configuration first, re dry fit, and then measure for final pipe segments.


Cheers, Wayne

Hi Wayne,

Yup street long turn 90 into the 3x2.

agreed on the flange but for the dry fit this is what the store had available when i was there

Here a pic of what i was going to do with the shower drain when i mentions a few 90s in my prior post. I need to move the line over a bit. i could use 2 regular hub LT 90's and put a short straight length in between them if that is better? few inches enough? don't want to go too far over if possible.

on the gluing that is what i was worried about. guess I'll have to look to see how much more i need on each length to seat properly and adjust.

thank you for the advice!!

 

[wwhitney]

Can you make your drain offset with two 45s or two 22.5s? That would be better.

Also, if it would help, that shower drain connection to the bend in the 3" line could be done with a 3" combo with a 2" bushing in the straight inlet. Or for more flexibility on where the barrel of the 3" fitting ends up, a 3" 45 and separate 3" wye with a 2" bushing in the straight inlet.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Claraarcher]

Can you make your drain offset with two 45s or two 22.5s? That would be better.

Also, if it would help, that shower drain connection to the bend in the 3" line could be done with a 3" combo with a 2" bushing in the straight inlet. Or for more flexibility on where the barrel of the 3" fitting ends up, a 3" 45 and separate 3" wye with a 2" bushing in the straight inlet.

Cheers, Wayne

not sure i am following on the shower drain. can you show me a picture or diagram? Its already pretty tight and what i temp'd in was fairly easy for me to work with atm.

btw - went to glue the flange and first straight piece and i could not get the pipe to go into the fitting it just jammed up and got stuck 1/2 in the fitting. Now i have to re-do those two parts.

The pipe was really tight in the fitting could this be an issue with manufacturer or maybe the glue was getting old and set up really fast? I did slop a good amount on there so maybe too much?

 

[Oghemalish]

Do you have any other tips?

 

[Claraarcher]

making some very slow progress and have a question and issue i hope someone can help with.

I figured out the glue issue with the toilet hub - old glue and wrong size dauber.

Somewhere during the glue up i twisted the toilet hub and now it is not level. it tilts backward and thus is off by about 3/8's. Will this be an issue or can i cut the hub level and the wax ring will seal up? if not what are my options?

Second pic is the shower drain and vent - is running them like this ok (was just the easiest way for me to line up the drain).

 

[Claraarcher]

Hi again,

I made it to run all the new waste and water line and framed out the shower alcove. Now i need to tie in the new to the old.

While i was able to get enough pitch on the new lines keeping the pitch and ting in looks to be harder.

My questions for you fine folk is what do you think is the better way to approach connecting new to old. Keep in mid some of the angles are going to be weird from what I can tell.

Option 1 is leaving the old bath line as is and just adding back the flange to the old copper line. The new PVC would run parallel and i would then have to break into the hall closet below cut the main stack and add a wye.

Option 2 - is cutting out the copper stack and vent and using a double Wye, I will have to cut out more of the joist and the vanity drain will be re-routed so it enter the wye correctly.

Any advice is appreciated - as always!

Thank you !

 

[wwhitney]

Have not reviewed the threads, but Option 1 is better, assuming the existing tub/WC wet venting is compliant. It keeps the new bathroom drains more separate, it avoids hacking up joists, and the use of a horizontal double wye is fraught.

On this last point, the only way to do it is basically to provide 3% slope on the barrel, and then get the two side entries exactly level with each other. That gives you 2% on the side entries. Using back to back single wyes is almost always a better choice.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Jeff H Young]

I think Id go down to the next floor and open some walls up and get it done perhaps bring 2 pipes up through the floor or look for another wall to come up.

 

[Claraarcher]

Have not reviewed the threads, but Option 1 is better, assuming the existing tub/WC wet venting is compliant. It keeps the new bathroom drains more separate, it avoids hacking up joists, and the use of a horizontal double wye is fraught.

On this last point, the only way to do it is basically to provide 3% slope on the barrel, and then get the two side entries exactly level with each other. That gives you 2% on the side entries. Using back to back single wyes is almost always a better choice.

Cheers, Wayne

thank you for the reply - i had no idea using a D-Wye had issues so think i will go the other route and bust through the ceiling into the closet.

2 single wye wont work as the toilet is off the wall perpendicular to the floor joists. that is why the old copper lines are at such an angle to try and get it as close to the framing as possible. And the toilet was still 15+ inches off the wall ! at least a 14" rough toilet will make that not as obvious.

 

[Claraarcher]

I think Id go down to the next floor and open some walls up and get it done perhaps bring 2 pipes up through the floor or look for another wall to come up.

thanks! i will go this route. Just need to find a stack support.

 

[Claraarcher]

one more issue - ughh never ends

I bought two shower valves - standard tub and shower valve, diverter on the valve.

Can i use this in the shower stall to run the shower head and a handheld instead of a tub fil and head? the tub fil lwould runt he head and the diverter would run the handheld in this case.

Did i ask this before? sounds familiar as i type it

 

[Jeff H Young]

one more issue - ughh never ends

I bought two shower valves - standard tub and shower valve, diverter on the valve.

Can i use this in the shower stall to run the shower head and a handheld instead of a tub fil and head? the tub fil lwould runt he head and the diverter would run the handheld in this case.

Did i ask this before? sounds familiar as i type it

if the valve has a diverter many dont and use a diverter on the spout you dont want that kind on a shower / with hand held

 

[Claraarcher]

if the valve has a diverter many dont and use a diverter on the spout you dont want that kind on a shower / with hand held

Hi Jeff,

Diverter is on the valve.

Thanks!

 

[Claraarcher]

i finally cut out the old copper and started to dry fit the new connections, this is what i got so far. The only issue is tying in the vanity waste/vent (was part of the 3" copper that i cut out).

I was thinking of the side inlet 90 just because its the closest spot.

my questions are:

1. overall layout looks ok?
2. is side inlet a really bad idea for the vanity drain / vent? if so what would you suggest?
3. when checking pitch i noticed its more than 1/4 bubble on the speedy level. its a full bubble. Is this an issue or is too much pitch only an issue if its really out of whack and noticeably over pitched?

Thank you!

 

[wwhitney]

1) Yes, except for (2) and because CT uses the IPC which allows the vanity in the other bath to wet vent both that whole bath and this WC. [There's nothing else draining in besides the other bath, yes?]

2) Yes, that side inlet is not a drainage pattern, you can't use it for drainage. I haven't thought about what global changes you could make to facilitate tying in the lav. But local possibilities:

A) You could replace the quarter bend with side inlet with a 3" san-tee, with a 1-1/2 (?) x 3 bushing in the top and a 1-1/2" street quarter bend in that. If that doesn't put the lav connection too high in your joist bay.

B) A bit weird, but you could replace the quarter bend with side inlet with a 3x3x3x1-1/2 san-tee with side inlet. Confirming that those have a drainage patten (no sharp inside corners on the 1-1/2" side inlet). And then just plugging the unnecessary 3" top connection.

3) If venting of non-WCs isn't involved (it's not here), then code wise 2% or 8% makes no difference. Not sure if there's any performance difference.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Claraarcher]

1) Yes, except for (2) and because CT uses the IPC which allows the vanity in the other bath to wet vent both that whole bath and this WC. [There's nothing else draining in besides the other bath, yes?]

2) Yes, that side inlet is not a drainage pattern, you can't use it for drainage. I haven't thought about what global changes you could make to facilitate tying in the lav. But local possibilities:

A) You could replace the quarter bend with side inlet with a 3" san-tee, with a 1-1/2 (?) x 3 bushing in the top and a 1-1/2" street quarter bend in that. If that doesn't put the lav connection too high in your joist bay.

B) A bit weird, but you could replace the quarter bend with side inlet with a 3x3x3x1-1/2 san-tee with side inlet. Confirming that those have a drainage patten (no sharp inside corners on the 1-1/2" side inlet). And then just plugging the unnecessary 3" top connection.

3) If venting of non-WCs isn't involved (it's not here), then code wise 2% or 8% makes no difference. Not sure if there's any performance difference.

Cheers, Wayne

what about a 3" fitting on the long pipe that goes into the right side of the wye. could use a LT 3x3x2 LT tee? i would have to redirect the drain up stream to tie in but it think that is ok?

can the side inlet 90 in the pic be use just as a vent for the toilet? assuming i can redirect the sink drain.