New Tile Shower

[TerryM]

I have been lurking for a while, hopefully learned a few things along the way.

I’m not a ‘pro’, I guess I’d call myself an advanced DIY guy that’s done pretty much everything along the way, but this is my first tile shower..

Putting in a fairly modest tile shower (not steam) at a new cabin, and am looking for a bit of input on my ‘plan’.

The plan..

Using a ready to tile base from a local supplier (Simple Shower Solutions) which is similar to others like KBRS. Drain is a basic ABS Oatey for tile bases with a gasket.

Once the base is installed I will..

Cover walls with building paper, overlapping the flange of the base (not sure if this is necessary?)

Install WonderBoard on well blocked walls overlapping the flange of the base (wall will be furred out slightly so board does not put pressure on base flange).

Apply tape/thinset over all the seams and screws.

Waterproof the walls with a liquid membrane (‘Aqua Defense’ in my case, which is used on this base)

Flood test and tile

My waterproofing ‘kit’ includes fabric recommended to be used along the base/wall seam.
Even though wall corners are taped, should I also use fabric in there too and on/in corners of any niche I build?

I've never used a premixed grout before, but Custom Building Products 'Fusion Pro' looks interesting. They call it a 'Single Component' grout, does anyone have experience with this stuff?

Thanks..

 

[ShowerDude]

can you share a pic or link to your pan?

the fabric is from mapei also?

No vapor barrier behind cbu w/topical liquid, unless exterior wall and local codes requires.....follow code.

you can tape/thinset cbu then aaply aquaD after it dries

the mapei fabric can be used in the changes of plane and in the field as well but you dont use both over each orher.





first fillow CBU MFG specs then Mapei spec.

in regards to flood testing and change of plane flange area detail..... i will need to see your pan....

is your substrate rated to support the pan? level?

again, so many questions!

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jadnashua]

Reinforcement tape for the waterproofing is good at the changes of plane. Follow the manufacturer's instructions on when and where the tape is required rather than recommended...it doesn't hurt to use it but watch your material's buildup. Generally, it is required if there is more than 1/8" gap, but doesn't hurt even when you've taped and reinforced the seams. You might want to go to a paint store and pick up a wet film gauge...they're only a few dollars. The liquid membranes are supposed to be installed between certain min/max thicknesses. Give two people the same brush or roller, and you'll get different coverages...it matters if it is too thick or too thin. A lot of people don't use the gauge properly, either. Hold it vertical and press down. Then, look at the bottom to see which leg is wet and which are dry. Your thickness is between the one that is wet and the one next to it that is dry on the bottom edge.

You do want a vapor barrier behind the cbu...tar paper works, as does plastic sheeting.

Often, the floor isn't perfectly level or flat. You may need to bed the pan in some mortar to get it level and provide good overall support. Done right, it won't flex and ends up nice and level in both directions.

 

[ShowerDude]

the keyword here being "OR" many mfg do not want to see a poly barrier behind a topically waterproofed wall. If you tie the wall into the pan I would opt out of a poly barrier.....unless local code calls for it OR you are dealing with exterior walls then YES.

if you do not tie the wall and waterproofing nto the pan then you may want a 15# felt shingle lapped into the pan.




Just to be clear.

 

[JohnfrWhipple]

Love the Specifier Part. Who the %^&(^& is that person.

Most times it's the tile man. Or the owner. Maybe the builder.

 

[ShowerDude]

exactlty John .. who is it?

likely the installer juggling multiple codes, mfg guidelines, ansi spec, etc!

and then all the bad online advice from people not working the tools in the trade.

 

[TerryM]

Thanks for the input

I was offline for the weekend (at the site) or I would have responded sooner..

Yes the fabric is from Mapei, and none of the walls of the bath are an exterior wall, and the floor is level.

Because we are outside of any city, all we have is Alberta Building Code 2006 (based on NBC 2005) and Plumbing Code of Canada 2010 and they seem a bit ‘silent’ on any specifics, as far as I can tell. So was looking for some real world advise.

Bath is on loft level of a log home, so ILBA (International Log Builders Association) govern the structural design standard. Don’t know if you guys have worked on many, but by most accounts they are overbuilt. Basically bath sits over 15"-18” log joists, 36” oc (with 8-10” of bearing surface), sheathed with 2” solid T&G boards.

Pan was supplied with monster ¾” U shaped trowel, I attached a portion of their instructions, pan slope is 1/4" per ft.

Walls on the sides of the shower are framed 2x6-16oc. Back wall of shower is not framed yet because, 1- it sits in front of a utility chase, and , 2- size and location of shampoo niche is undecided. Not even sure how deep they should be.

Generally I use Custom Building Products FlexBond for my mortar, and like I said was toying with idea of using a 'Single Component' grout.

 

[Jadnashua]

Installing mortar on solid lumber is not generally a good idea...it moves too much with seasonal changes in humidity. You really want a layer of plywood underneath that. Many, not all, manufactured pans work better if bedded in mortar to provide 100% support which prevents any flex.