Your water pressure will typically vary between 30 and 50 or between 20 and 40, or some such.19 PSI in expansion tank and 35 psi at the pump gauge,
That would be consistent with the well not keeping up.Without hooking up a gauge at the house I can tell you we hook it up to outrRV and it will not run our tankless water heater because it needs a min. of 15 psi to operate, so its 15 psi or less, and the weird thing is when we turn on a hose after sitting a while,its got good pressure for maybe 2 minutes then it just dies off.
Tell us about your well.Sand Point ?
Also, during these 3 states, what does the pressure gauge at the pump indicate?Without hooking up a gauge at the house I can tell you we hook it up to outrRV and it will not run our tankless water heater because it needs a min. of 15 psi to operate, so its 15 psi or less, and the weird thing is when we turn on a hose after sitting a while,its got good pressure for maybe 2 minutes then it just dies off.
that pvc elbow has pipe attached to it going downTell us about your well.
Dimensions. (depth and diameter) 4" steel casing 30 feet deep
Material. (pvc, steel, what?)1-1/4"PVC inside the steel casing
Location with respect to the photo. Right under that PVC elbow, or is that pipe going underground to the actual well location?
If your running a 20/40 or even a 30/50 pressure switch and you lose 20 PSI through all those filters, you have no pressure left. Like was said you need a pump that can do 60/80 pressure if you have enough filters to lose 20 PSI.
Another way to increase the pressure is to use a constant pressure valve like a Cycle Stop Valve. The CSV works with the same 60/80 pressure switch. But instead of going on at 60 and off at 80 all the time you are using water, the CSV will hold a strong constant 70 PSI with any faucet on.
Yes. A CSV would be located directly after the pump but before the pressure tank.just add that to my current setup you see in the pic ?
This is awkward, but...
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