New System Low Pressure

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Mtnxtreme

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We have a shallow 30' well in Florida, brand new pump, expansion tank and filter set up, 19 PSI in expansion tank and 35 psi at the pump gauge, the pump is about 50 feet from the house, the pressure is terrible, can anyone help me diagnose ?
 

Reach4

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You want to get a garden hose thread (GHT or GH) pressure gauge. Easy to buy locally for under $20.

Measure the pressure at the house at a hose bib, laundry tap, or the drain on the WH.

Terrible is subjective. Put numbers to it.

Your filters will drop some pressure. But if one is clogged, then you will get house flows that anybody would find terrible. If there is no water being used, the filter will drop zero psi. So it is the condition where you are running water inside that you will want to study.

19 PSI in expansion tank and 35 psi at the pump gauge,
Your water pressure will typically vary between 30 and 50 or between 20 and 40, or some such.

The air precharge in the pressure tank, with a jet pump, is typically set to about 5 psi below the cut-in pressure.

You may need a more powerful pump to do what you would like.
 

Valveman

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If your running a 20/40 or even a 30/50 pressure switch and you lose 20 PSI through all those filters, you have no pressure left. Like was said you need a pump that can do 60/80 pressure if you have enough filters to lose 20 PSI.

Another way to increase the pressure is to use a constant pressure valve like a Cycle Stop Valve. The CSV works with the same 60/80 pressure switch. But instead of going on at 60 and off at 80 all the time you are using water, the CSV will hold a strong constant 70 PSI with any faucet on.
 

Mtnxtreme

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Without hooking up a gauge at the house I can tell you we hook it up to outrRV and it will not run our tankless water heater because it needs a min. of 15 psi to operate, so its 15 psi or less, and the weird thing is when we turn on a hose after sitting a while,its got good pressure for maybe 2 minutes then it just dies off.

Power supply required...........................................................................115 volts or 230 volts, 60 Hz (Pump is set by the factory to run on 115 volts) Maximum water temperature...........................................................................................77°F (25°C) Individual branch circuit required............................................................................15 Amp minimum Discharge connection..........................................................................................................1 in. NPT Suction connection ........................................................................................................1-1/4 in. NPT Motor duty..................... Continuous duty with enforced air cooling and thermal overload protection Pressure switch ...........................................................................Preset at 20 PSI “on” / 40 PSI “off” Water depth rating ................................................................................................. Maximum of 25 ft. ITEM # MODEL # HP VOLTAGE HZ AMP CAPACITY - U.S. GALLONS PER MINUTE AT DISCHARGE 20 PSI 0 FT. 5 FT. 15 FT. 25 FT. 0955549 148012 1/2 115/230 60 9.5/4.8 11 9.5 6.5 3.5 •
 

Reach4

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Without hooking up a gauge at the house I can tell you we hook it up to outrRV and it will not run our tankless water heater because it needs a min. of 15 psi to operate, so its 15 psi or less, and the weird thing is when we turn on a hose after sitting a while,its got good pressure for maybe 2 minutes then it just dies off.
That would be consistent with the well not keeping up.

Sand point?
 

Reach4

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Sand Point ?
Tell us about your well.

Dimensions. (depth and diameter)
Material. (pvc, steel, what?)
Location with respect to the photo. Right under that PVC elbow, or is that pipe going underground to the actual well location?
 

Reach4

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Without hooking up a gauge at the house I can tell you we hook it up to outrRV and it will not run our tankless water heater because it needs a min. of 15 psi to operate, so its 15 psi or less, and the weird thing is when we turn on a hose after sitting a while,its got good pressure for maybe 2 minutes then it just dies off.
Also, during these 3 states, what does the pressure gauge at the pump indicate?
  1. it will not run our tankless water heater
  2. when we turn on a hose after sitting a while,its got good pressure for maybe 2 minutes
  3. then it just dies off.
Have you taken steps to locate a garden hose thread pressure gauge?
 

Mtnxtreme

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Tell us about your well.

Dimensions. (depth and diameter) 4" steel casing 30 feet deep
Material. (pvc, steel, what?)1-1/4"PVC inside the steel casing
Location with respect to the photo. Right under that PVC elbow, or is that pipe going underground to the actual well location?
that pvc elbow has pipe attached to it going down
30'
 

Mtnxtreme

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If your running a 20/40 or even a 30/50 pressure switch and you lose 20 PSI through all those filters, you have no pressure left. Like was said you need a pump that can do 60/80 pressure if you have enough filters to lose 20 PSI.

Another way to increase the pressure is to use a constant pressure valve like a Cycle Stop Valve. The CSV works with the same 60/80 pressure switch. But instead of going on at 60 and off at 80 all the time you are using water, the CSV will hold a strong constant 70 PSI with any faucet on.


Can just add that to my current setup you see in the pic ? What are we talking cost wise ?
 

Bannerman

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just add that to my current setup you see in the pic ?
Yes. A CSV would be located directly after the pump but before the pressure tank.

Although your exsisting large pressure tank my be used with a CSV, because the CSV will prevent the pump from cycling, a large pressure tank is no longer needed and maybe replaced with a small 4.5 or 10 gallon pressure tank such as included with the PK1A Pside-kick package.

CycleStop Valves website

CSV PK1A Pside-kick package
 
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