New shallow well

Users who are viewing this thread

Banjo Bud

Active Member
Messages
352
Reaction score
27
Points
28
Location
South Carolina
The depth of each fitting is exactly 1”. I cut all my close fittings on a radial arm saw to 2-1/8”. Then filed a chamfer on the outside so glue doesn’t get scraped off while inserting them. The one you zoomed in on just happened to bottom out dry.
 

Banjo Bud

Active Member
Messages
352
Reaction score
27
Points
28
Location
South Carolina
C8C2D872-F262-451F-864B-39F326EF2176.jpeg
Here’s a picture of the spring. You can see my 4” well cap in the foreground. Back about 8’ is the spill spout. This spout is about 14” higher than the well cap pipe. It is running at 3 GPM. The spring is another 20’ behind the spill spout. When I pull water with my pump, if I pull more than 3 GPM, the spill spout stops. If I pull 2 GPM, then 1 GPM comes out of the spout. If I pull 10 GPM, the 500 gallon reservoir drains at a rate of 7 GPM.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,798
Reaction score
4,412
Points
113
Location
IL
The depth of each fitting is exactly 1”. I cut all my close fittings on a radial arm saw to 2-1/8”. Then filed a chamfer on the outside so glue doesn’t get scraped off while inserting them. The one you zoomed in on just happened to bottom out dry.
I would replace those pipes with unchamfered pipes. They should not bottom out dry.
 

Banjo Bud

Active Member
Messages
352
Reaction score
27
Points
28
Location
South Carolina
I put an identical chamfer on them as a new pipe. Not sure why a few bottomed out. Different manufacturers maybe? I’ve always chamfered or radiused the corner of male ends. If it’s left sharp, it scrapes all the glue from the female as it’s inserted. I guess I could just make longer ones. PVC is cheap. Re-doing joints is a pain. Thanks Reach.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,798
Reaction score
4,412
Points
113
Location
IL
I put an identical chamfer on them as a new pipe. Not sure why a few bottomed out. Different manufacturers maybe? I’ve always chamfered or radiused the corner of male ends. If it’s left sharp, it scrapes all the glue from the female as it’s inserted. I guess I could just make longer ones. PVC is cheap. Re-doing joints is a pain. Thanks Reach.
I think of the PVC kinda melting with the primer and glue, and as you shove the joint together, the PVC fuses.

I don't think you want to clear out a space for the glue.

Does somebody you know recommend a chamfer on your PVC pipe as you do it?
 
Last edited:

Banjo Bud

Active Member
Messages
352
Reaction score
27
Points
28
Location
South Carolina
Nobody has ever mentioned it. I just have always made it like it comes from the factory. Never had a problem. Maybe either way works.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks