New rough-in to existing cast-iron, flange needs to move up 3"

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by downhill, Jul 11, 2019.

  1. downhill

    downhill New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2019
    Location:
    Pennsylvania
    Slab is coming up on a remodel, adding proper walls and such and toilet needs to move forward.

    12" toilet - previous owners nailed 3/4" T&G to block, then 1/2" drywall, then flippers added 1/4" drywall to that. So previous wall depth was 1.5", total depth from toilet to block wall was 13.5"

    Doing 2x4 stud bays with 1/2" drywall so wall depth from block wall to toilet needs to be at least 16".

    The CI soil pipe coming in hits right for the existing wall/toilet configuration. I need to put a new flange 2.5-3" in front of where the existing one is. It's tight and will be buried, so I'm thinking of a few ways to do it.

    Pictures attached. One with the tape measure, the arrow is showing the soil pipe in the direction it leaves the room. On the second picture, it shows the pipes after the toilet that go to shower/sink. Many years ago the toilet must have been moved over, this was just covered with some wood then cement for the floor.

    I have the Mission no-hub fitting to go from cast iron to PVC, from there I was thinking of a wye then to a 90 (from the angled portion of the wye) for the toilet, but that may bring me too far forward. I could use 22.5deg elbows which gets me forward enough, but that may bring me too far to the left, a half wall for a shower is going there. So far the wye to 90 brings me forward about 5-6" more than I need to be. I could possibly cut that down with an offset flange, but I'm probably overthinking this.

    Thoughts?
     

    Attached Files:

  2. wwhitney

    wwhitney New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2019
    Location:
    Berkeley, CA
    Have you considered using a 10" rough-in toilet, and in necessary reducing the wall framing behind it to 3" deep?

    Cheers, Wayne
     
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  4. downhill

    downhill New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2019
    Location:
    Pennsylvania
    I have, and have done this in another room, but then the cavity isn't deep enough to put in insulation batts without ripping out half of the fiberglass before install, and I want a proper top and bottom plate because the new wall will be holding cement board and tile for a shower.

    After checking some more, the toilet could move to the side 10-12" before it gets cramped against the half wall, so 2 22.5deg elbows combined to make a dogleg should get me where I need to be.
     
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2019
  5. wwhitney

    wwhitney New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2019
    Location:
    Berkeley, CA
    How about a 10" rough in toilet and an offset flange?

    Cheers, Wayne
     
  6. downhill

    downhill New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2019
    Location:
    Pennsylvania
    After working with a pile of fittings and feeling the creep of being in over my head set in, I called a pro. I figure I can struggle without a working toilet for a week and get a solution I'll be mostly happy with, or get someone who has been doing this for years only spend a day on it and have it working 100%, lav and tub included.
     
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