New pump, low pressure issue.

[Bannerman]

I have zero interest in a inexpensive, low quality pump. I did read a thread you guys had from a few years back about the "cheapening" of the pumps by the manufacturers,

If you have been reading prior threads in this forum, you will have seen it frequently stated that cycling reduces the lifespan of a pump and other components, regardless of whether the pump and other components are expensive or inexpensive. By utilizing a Cycle Stop Valve, an inexpensive pump will often outlive a higher quality pump system that is not equipped with a CSV.

If you isolate the pressure tank (there is a valve on it) and isolate the house so that the pump dead ends at the switch/gauge and throw the circuit breaker supplying the pump, the pressure will drop to zero after only a minute or two. I suspect the check valve on the pump is stuck open, which would account for the loss

In a well pump system, pressure is stored in the pressure tank by the air within the tank that becomes compressed or is further compressed by the water that enters the tank while the pump is operating. By isolating the pressure tank from the well pump, there was nowhere to store pressure produced by the pump, resulting in the pressure to rapidly drop to 0 once the pump was shut down.

As water cannot be compressed, with the pressure tank isolated from the pump, and with all downstream valves closed, there was nowhere for water to go while the pump was running and attempting to pump water out from the well.

 

[Pistol Pete]

By isolating the pressure tank from the well pump, there was nowhere to store pressure produced by the pump, resulting in the pressure to rapidly drop to 0 once the pump was shut down.

You're right - the flaw in my theory was that the drop pipe would maintain the pressure built by the pump.

But what lead me to this was when I started the pump for the first time, the tank was not isolated. It filled and I opened up all of the faucet to purge the air from the system. Once I had a steady stream of water, I closed the faucets, checked the pressure gauge and it was at 38 psi and the pump ran continuously, never moving beyond that ( I now know why thanks to this forum).

I shut off the pump and closed the line feeding the house and left the pressure tank in line. I sat down and started this thread.

When I went back for a second look at it, the pressure was zero and the tank was empty. This is what lead me to believe there was a leak, be it the pitless adapter, drop pipe or check valve.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Valveman]

The casing is 6" so no issue there.

I put the last pump in 17 years ago and I'm old enough to know I don't want to do another one 17 years from now !

I try not to go out of my way to waste money (failed here, obviously) but I have zero interest in a inexpensive, low quality pump. I did read a thread you guys had from a few years back about the "cheapening" of the pumps by the manufacturers, but we can't control what they offer us for sale, only what we ultimately choose to buy.

That said, all of the AY McDonalds I looked into seem to be at least two weeks out. Any others I should consider, Goulds or Flint and Walling ?

Yeah we are seeing supply chain issues again. Most likely another manufactured problem not a manufacturing problem. When you are out of water you take what pump is available. Be lucky if any of them last 17 years again. But eliminating the cycling is the best way to make any pump last longer.