New Pump Controller on old pump?

[attk11]

Hey,
I have a well pump that runs for 2 seconds then shuts off for 15 seconds. When I replaced the capacitor I found an O.L (Overload) tucked inside so I connected it to the new capacitor. It did the same thing which made me think maybe the O.L is weak (can also see rust on one of the connection points). When I looked up this other pump controller it is pretty much the same setup but does not have an O.L in it:

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Little-Giant-2801054915-Standard-Submersible-Motor-Control-Box-1-2-HP-230V-1-Phase

1. Can I install a new pump controller (without and O.L) on my old well pump (1987?)?

2. Can I wire my current controller up the same as the one in the link, removing the O.L?

Thanks

 

[Valveman]

Pump motors built after about 87 have an overload built into the motor. Motors older than that do not, and need an overload in the control box as your has. The capacitor is bad as I can see the paper cover over the relief port pooched out. That is what causes the 2 seconds on and 15 off. Hopefully a new capacitor will make it work again, but you need an overload.

The pressure tank is also probably waterlogged, the pressure switch points are burned, and the check valve is most likely leaking back as all those things are also caused by the same cycling on/off that took out the start cap.

 

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[attk11]

Thanks for the reply Cary,
I ended up replacing the pump controller with a new one. I'm pretty sure the relay failed in the old one, to replace the relay would have cost $175 CAD. I was able to get a pump controller for $185 CAD. With the new controller the motor is no longer thermally protected, this pump owes me nothing, its 38 years old. When I checked the amps it was drawing when running it was 5.86 A, so does not appear to have a short or running tight.
I have a cycle stop valve, although I don’t think it is working properly. I ran a tap outside the pump house and the pump was cycling. I ran the kitchen tap and the gauge in the house would go from 50psi down to 25psi continually.
I ran the shower and noticed on a pressure gauge I have up at the house it would hold at 40psi. I went down to the pump house while the shower was running and the gauge in the pump house was holding at 65psi.

 

[Valveman]

The breaker will still protect the electric grid if something shorts out. 5.3 amps is good. But with a CSV should not be cycling when using water. Sounds like it is not cycling when using water in the house, only outdoors? If so, the CSV maybe installed after the outdoor spigots?

 

[attk11]

Ok, so here’s the forensic breakdown of what I believe happened.:

My pressure tank had 10 psi in it when I checked it after replacing the pump control controller.

I think what happened is the pump was cycling on and off so much that it welded the relay circuit so that it was engaging the start capacitor which caused it to run continuously which caused it to fry.

So a note to anyone else experiencing a problem like this check your pressure tank before changing capacitors or relays.

At the end of the day, the new pump, controller and proper pressure tank PSI fixed all my issues.

I have 140 micron irrigation filter that filters the water before entering the pressure shut off valve and pressure tank. I clean that once a year and get 2 tablespoons of sand out of it. I am go to add to my yearly filter cleaning to check the PSI in the pressure tank.