New (old) House pressure tank

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turq

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I was wondering how that was going to work. I'm also curious as to why it's cocked like that? So I guess if the seal is not damaged at all, the goal should be just to get the seal seated properly? I've used dish soap to lubricate o rings before, I wonder if a little bit of that will help if it's binding at all?

I've just added replacing the valve with a full port valve.

I'm going to reach out to CSV on Tuesday, after I scope out the area a little more and get a handle on what it's going to take. I would like to get the ball rolling on that as well. Many thanks sir...
 

2stupid2fixit

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Hello My son and his wife just purchased an older house (1947) with a well and septic systems. I've spent years fixing my own house, but have no clue as to well or septic systems...I have been reading voraciously the last few days trying to get up to speed. As most young couples, their funds are limited especially after buying the house. They did order an inspection report from a well and septic company. It was quite expensive, but it left me with more questions than answers. The house has been vacant for over a year.

So here is what I know from the report and the well tag. It was drilled in 1991, to a depth of 160", 10gpm, static water level 30'. It is missing a well vent. it is estimated to be a 1/2 hp 5 gpm pump. It has a 42 gal pressure tank, 30-50 range. But the tank was reading o psi. There s no electrical disconnect to the pump. The ball valve, check valve and pressure gauge are all working. Pressure switch contacts are worn. It states there are no water filters installed. It states house plumbing is copper 1/2 and 3/4. Coliform is present, but no ecoli. The dissolved and precipitated iron numbers are high. The water is soft. Waiting for led results. They are recommending replacing tank, switch,tee, guage and shock treatment for $1700 plus. I will probably replace the tank myself, but am leery of the shock treatment and retesting of the well water part.
Sorry for the terrible pics, I am going to go back and try and get some more.
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So should I test the tank? Or just plan on replacing it? Is a bigger tank 55 gal ok? Lowes has an AO Smith? Any brands recommended or to stay away from?

I have used Supply House before and they sell a tee set up that has everything I need. I plan on replacing all components. Would that be a good way to go? Or should I get individual parts, especially because I don't know where in that above set up I would have room for an assembled tee set up.

What about using pex or ? instead of the PVC?

You really can't see from the above pics, but there is two pvc lines coming in. One 90's up to the gauge and than to the tank. And one takes the low road, 90's up to a tee after the gauge. Any idea what this second pvc pipe is about? Maybe to an outside silcock or something?

In the report they say "No water filter present". Than what the heck is the above picture of?

There is discussion of ultra violet light to kill coliform. One of the inhabitants has some health issues. Should this be a consideration?

Would adding a switch to kill power to the pump something I should add to the to do list?

At the moment I plan to leave the shock treatment and vent pipe install to an expert, I think the quote was in the $450 range. Should I attempt it? or is leaving water quality something best left to experts?

You guys are great on here, sorry if this rambling, or I am not asking the right questions. Feel free to educate me as needed:)

Thank you!

I find it interesting that the sample tested hot for Coliform... I'd spend time there before moving on to replace anything else. I don't know about where you live but for where I live I can have a sample tested for around $40 bucks and it screens for E coli, total coliform, pseudomonas areugnosa, and if I am not mistaken, girada and cryptosporidium. Id be interested to see what an independent bio testing lab finds. Sometimes these "home inspectors" collect samples with contaminated containers. You want a company that takes your water sample in a factory sealed sodium thio bottle.
 

Reach4

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I find it interesting that the sample tested hot for Coliform... I'd spend time there before moving on to replace anything else.
I think most positive coliform tests on a deep well are due to bad sampling procedures. However I also believe in sanitizing wells, but not take the test right after that.
 

turq

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I find it interesting that the sample tested hot for Coliform... I'd spend time there before moving on to replace anything else. I don't know about where you live but for where I live I can have a sample tested for around $40 bucks and it screens for E coli, total coliform, pseudomonas areugnosa, and if I am not mistaken, girada and cryptosporidium. Id be interested to see what an independent bio testing lab finds. Sometimes these "home inspectors" collect samples with contaminated containers. You want a company that takes your water sample in a factory sealed sodium thio bottle.

Thanks for the reply. The water test and well inspection performed by the well and septic company for the due diligence in buying the house was full of errors. So basically we are not giving much weight to anything in that report. We did have a different company come by and shock the well. They seemed very knowledgeable and honest. We were supposed to follow up and get the water to all the faucets and flush the well after a couple of days.

Unfortunately there was a snafu with the electricity, which because of the week end, took almost four days to get it fixed. After power was restored, we got water to all the faucets and did the smell test. The idea was to let it sit there for a couple of days and than flush the well. Unfortunately on the second day a pipe stated leaking. Yikes! I had to drain the water from the faucets. Anyway because of work that took two more days but I did get water back to the faucets. So now we are a week since the well was shocked, and it still hasn't been flushed. But we plan on doing that tomorrow. I'm not sure of the negatives with letting it sit so long?

At his point we plan on running the water for a couple of weeks ( not drinking it) and than get an extensive water test done ( Nat. Test Labs.). The initial water test we got back said too much iron, which is obvious because the water in the toilet is orange. So was the inside of the pex I replaced. A bunch of the fittings are corroded as well and will also have to replaced. So basically we are in a holding pattern until we get reliable water test results.
 

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Anyway because of work that took two more days but I did get water back to the faucets. So now we are a week since the well was shocked, and it still hasn't been flushed.
Have you adjusted pH down with vinegar, or recirculated, or sprayed the upper part of the well with disinfecting solution?

Did you detect the chlorine in the hot water outputs? Did you include the ice maker, outdoor faucets, laundry taps, dishwasher?
 

turq

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Have you adjusted pH down with vinegar, or recirculated, or sprayed the upper part of the well with disinfecting solution?

I did not. Since I was not present at the time the guy did the shocking, I am not sure exactly what he did. His company is well respected, I imagine he did things the right way. But I can find out for sure by calling him on Monday.

Did you detect the chlorine in the hot water outputs? Did you include the ice maker, outdoor faucets, laundry taps, dishwasher?

Yes to all, except the ice maker, there is no refrigerator yet. But now that you mention it, I should have run water through the valve anyway.
 

2stupid2fixit

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Thanks for the reply. The water test and well inspection performed by the well and septic company for the due diligence in buying the house was full of errors. So basically we are not giving much weight to anything in that report. We did have a different company come by and shock the well. They seemed very knowledgeable and honest. We were supposed to follow up and get the water to all the faucets and flush the well after a couple of days.

Unfortunately there was a snafu with the electricity, which because of the week end, took almost four days to get it fixed. After power was restored, we got water to all the faucets and did the smell test. The idea was to let it sit there for a couple of days and than flush the well. Unfortunately on the second day a pipe stated leaking. Yikes! I had to drain the water from the faucets. Anyway because of work that took two more days but I did get water back to the faucets. So now we are a week since the well was shocked, and it still hasn't been flushed. But we plan on doing that tomorrow. I'm not sure of the negatives with letting it sit so long?

At his point we plan on running the water for a couple of weeks ( not drinking it) and than get an extensive water test done ( Nat. Test Labs.). The initial water test we got back said too much iron, which is obvious because the water in the toilet is orange. So was the inside of the pex I replaced. A bunch of the fittings are corroded as well and will also have to replaced. So basically we are in a holding pattern until we get reliable water test results.

The more time that goes by between the shock and sample, the better. You don't want shocking or chemical treatment to be the solution, you simply want any coliforms or enterus well basically any relative of theirs that found their way down the well at installation to be destroyed. If after treatment, 30 days goes by and you are still testing + for coliform, I would suspect a feeder source. I wouldnt suspect the disinfection to have failed because after 30 days mother earth should have taken over. UNLESS SAND. May I ask if you are near any swine, cattle, dairy or poultry operations? Dog kennel? Sod farms? Down below the surface, usually dirt does a great job of managing aerobic performance. What is your soil like?

Here is some worthwhile reading... I should cite my references before standing on a soap box.

https://extension.psu.edu/coliform-bacteria
 
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