New Motor - High AMP Draw?

[hdude]

New 2 HP Franklin Motor - New L20P4HS Pump - New Control Box - New CSV Valve - New Tank.
Motor Starts @ 2.85Kw(12a) - Pumping motor@ 2.45Kw (10a)- and when demand stops (CSV @1GPM) motor runs @ 1.25Kw (5a). Franklin says it should run at 1.5Kw (6-7a).

CSV is set to 55PSI @well, shows 50PSI @TANK (10 ft elev + 50 of 1 1/4 pipe) and the house pressure drops to 30-35PSI (100' of 1 1/4 pipe into 2 3/4" pipes of 30') while GeoThermal demand about 6-8GPM (bucket test through 3/4" drain line spigot). All new guages and they have been cross checked. I am using a reliable monitoring/graphing program. I have a Cycle Sensor being shipped so I can x-ref my amp draw and make sure I am not exceeding well recharge/capacity since I am not 100% sure of this. I am trying to balance Geo with other needs at reliable draw and pressure.

Not cycling - but the 10amp concerns me. Wattage seems in excess of what I'd expect and very high for new pump. Any thoughts?

 

[Reach4]

Franklin says it should run at 1.5Kw (6-7a).

Where does it say that?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[hdude]

Down Chart at 4" - 3 Wire 2HP (224301) - KW = 1.5 or about 7amp

 

[Boycedrilling]

No. Your looking at the wrong chart or you areoverthinking it.

You need to be referring to table 14. FLA 10 amps. Service factor amps is 13.2

 

[hdude]

Additional Info might be helpful
Well Static is 70' Pump @ 140' 8" casing.

Not 100% know recharge rate - Driller report said 39gpm draw from 70' to 130' w/o noting time. Two different zone in the well produce water - top one said to be 5GPM and bottom unknown. When the new pump was put in we ran it full open (1-1/4" at well head) for about 30 minutes to clean out the disturbed dirty water. I am not 100% certain if the 39gpm is the recharge rate but never had a know instance of well pumping dry. But at this time of year, my Geo HVAC runs almost 24/7 without stopping (SE Arizona 100+ degrees). That's why I have a Cycle Sensor on order.

 

[Boycedrilling]

Your amps are exactly what they should be.

If your monitor would show it, starting amps will be around 60 amps for the first 1/2 second. Then drop to 10 amps or so. And you’re saying that the cycle stop is reducing your amperage to about 50% of full load

 

[hdude]

The chart I copied is Table 14. Trying to find "FLA". I assume it refers to Full Load Amps/

 

[hdude]

If 10 Amps is expected, then I am relieved. The cost per kilo-watt out here is cheap ($.07) and if the sun shines, the HVAC and Pump run for free.

If your monitor would show it, starting amps will be around 60 amps for the first 1/2 second. Then drop to 10 amps or so. And you’re saying that the cycle stop is reducing your amperage to about 50% of full load

My graphing / monitoring software only shows a startup KW about 20% higher than the run KW. The Cycle Stop Valve is only running at 50% (5amp) of full load when the water demand goes to < 1GPM and the pump finishes filling the pressure tank. The pump runs at a constant 2.4KV (10amp?) for the duration while my HVAC draws 6 to 8 GPM. (Different issue - probably need more GPM since I have a 20 degree temperature difference between input and output in the pump coax/exchange).

 

[Boycedrilling]

I was wrong, I should have said table 13, not table 14.

Yes FLA, means full load amps. SFA would mean service factor amps. Most submersible motor have a 1.15 service factor. That means they are rated to run at 115% of full load amps. Service factor on a motor can be any where from 1.0 to 2.50

 

[hdude]

Just found it too. Shows me using more than "Full Load" watts, but somewhat less than "Maximum"
I was hoping that the CycleStopValve would drop the load amps/watts - but at my usage that's a pipe dream.
Still, If I am not overworking the motor, I am happy with the equipment.

 

[hdude]

FYI: Here is the graphing software. Green Solar, Blue Total Usage, Yellow Pump, Red from/to ElectCo. GridLines per 5Kw

 

[Valveman]

The L20 pump is the reason the amps don't drop more. Dropping from 13 to 10 amps is pretty good for a "floating stage" type pump . If you are looking for the most efficient pump, you need to look at the pump curves. Grundfos has the best amp drop with reduced flow of any pump. Here is a curve for a 25S20-11. Notice at 6-8 GPM it drops to about 1.2HP, which would be about 6-7 amps instead of the 10 you get with the L20. Don't know if that is enough difference to help at 0.7 a KW. Motor doesn't make any difference, just the pump end.

 

[hdude]

Starting to better understand pumps, motors, psi, gpm, csv, etc. In my next life, hoping my current setup lasts longer than 10 years, I will be looking at the Grundfos. Thanks

 

[Boycedrilling]

When I need to temporarily put a data logger on a motor, I use an Extech DL160. It is a two channel clamp on data logger, it will log two inputs, either volts or amps. Sampling interval can be set from every second to once per 24 hours. I can then download the data to my laptop to display and chart the data.

 

[hdude]

I use the Energy Detective's TED5000 ( http://www.theenergydetective.com ) which I purchased a few years ago to monitor my Solar System output vs my total household energy use. I just purchased an additional sensor primarily to monitor my pump power usage. Now I know how much power the pump uses and if and when it cycles.

Yellow is pump. . As the sun shines, the solar (green) rises, and the power company usage (red)becomes lower than the total household use (blue).

The product has second (past 1Hr), minute(past 48Hr) hourly (past 7 days) daily (past 90 days) monthly (past 17 months) logging/graphing. My setup ran $250 for initial clamp and recorder and $100 each for 2 additional clamps. It is accessible by a browser and can even be monitored from the internet. Data is downloadable as CSV.

 

[Reach4]

I looked at your link. Looks good. I see the current sense coils. I expect this device takes into account the power factor/phase angle in computing power, because the power numbers you posted were not just proportional to current.

What seems odd is that your total household use goes way up when the pump runs. I am looking at the overnight chart. Also, it looks like your pump runs an awfully lot of the time. Is this overnight irrigation?

 

[hdude]

Open Loop Heat Pump - in SE Arizona. At this time of year, it runs pretty full time between 9am and 9pm and then averages about 3 cycles an hour at night as it cools off. It appears the HVAC and Pump together pulls about 6500 watts (27amps) per Hour to cool a 3600 fairly well insulated house to 76degrees. Power to cool yesterday was about 100 KWH (and it was somewhat cloudy and cool at 100 degrees). Fortunately about 2/3s of this is covered by my 10KW Solar. The other KWHs are (now still) at a relatively low 10 cents per KWH from the electric co-op. My electric bill in the summer/winter average about $100 a month and I bank credits in spring and fall. On the old system (no CSV), it appears I was cycling every 5 minutes when cooling, heating or not. Now with new pump/motor/tank and CSV, I am cycling only 40 to 50 times per day.