New house came with a Rainsoft Water Softener and....

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Mialynette2003

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Nate. I think you need to learn how to read. People here have given you some good advise but all you have been doing is cutting them down. I know I offered advise and even went as far as giving you the abaility to call me if needed. I am now taking back that offer and I hope everyone here stops giving you advise. You are very ungrateful.
 

nate81

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Right now I have all the power cords unplugged and I'm bypassing this whole system completely, I'd like to get it back up and running and learn how to adjust the timers properly.


Where was the post that someone helped me set up my control valve timers at? Everything got so diverted with testing and this and that....thanks for those that helped, but you still cannot deny there was some nonsensical, judgmental, bullshit going on in this thread. Hell, the very first reply was ...'first of all, WOW WHAT A MESS'...this is totally unnecessary and unbeneficial...i should have stopped right there.

/thread
 

Gary Slusser

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Nate, no one can tell you how to set the softener control valve until they know fer sure how much iron, manganese, hardness is in the water ad what pH it is, plus how many people live in the house. I understand your feelings about being told to spend a few hundred dollars on testing.

BTW, filling the pool with treated water is a very bad idea because the equipment isn't sized to do that.

Mialynette has helped you from right after first responder ignorant Tom made the totally uncalled for comment "What a mess". You have a very good system for what water quality you have. Iron can come and go, especially if you have IRB (iron reducing bacteria). That 5 pH is a serious problem and will be eating any metal while adding that metal to your water. It will cause pinhole leaks in copper tubing because it eats the inside surface of the tubing.

You are wanting the easy way out of treating your water so you don't like the idea of using the present equipment. An acid neutralizing filter sounds good until you have to add mineral to it much more frequently than maybe the dealer expected. Or, it doesn't correct the problem and what do you do then, there is no adjustment on them, you dump the mineral and add new stronger mineral. Your solution feeders and retention tank can adjust the pH. And if this guy that's selling you new equipment hasn't told you that, shame on him but you get to live with the problem and he is not going to remove his AN filter and give you a refund. Good luck.
 

Tom Sawyer

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Where was the post that someone helped me set up my control valve timers at? Everything got so diverted with testing and this and that....thanks for those that helped, but you still cannot deny there was some nonsensical, judgmental, bullshit going on in this thread. Hell, the very first reply was ...'first of all, WOW WHAT A MESS'...this is totally unnecessary and unbeneficial...i should have stopped right there.

/thread

I stand by my post. It is a mess and your 1st order of business should be to tear the mess out and start over again. This time pipe it correctly so it doesnt look like someone threw a pile of sphagetti at the wall. Right there is the difference between professional advice and advice given by someone living in a motor home that has never held a plumbing or water treatment license of any kind in his life. Aside from that though, EVERYONE here posted the advice you NEED to follow and thats to get a valid water test done. Otherwise just twist the dials and punch the buttons and maybe you will come close enough. Just like the MESS in your well house. CLOSE ENOUGH LOL
 

Tom Sawyer

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Nate, no one can tell you how to set the softener control valve until they know fer sure how much iron, manganese, hardness is in the water ad what pH it is, plus how many people live in the house. I understand your feelings about being told to spend a few hundred dollars on testing.

BTW, filling the pool with treated water is a very bad idea because the equipment isn't sized to do that.

Mialynette has helped you from right after first responder ignorant Tom made the totally uncalled for comment "What a mess". You have a very good system for what water quality you have. Iron can come and go, especially if you have IRB (iron reducing bacteria). That 5 pH is a serious problem and will be eating any metal while adding that metal to your water. It will cause pinhole leaks in copper tubing because it eats the inside surface of the tubing.

You are wanting the easy way out of treating your water so you don't like the idea of using the present equipment. An acid neutralizing filter sounds good until you have to add mineral to it much more frequently than maybe the dealer expected. Or, it doesn't correct the problem and what do you do then, there is no adjustment on them, you dump the mineral and add new stronger mineral. Your solution feeders and retention tank can adjust the pH. And if this guy that's selling you new equipment hasn't told you that, shame on him but you get to live with the problem and he is not going to remove his AN filter and give you a refund. Good luck.

So in your "learned" opinion, the piping is just fine and my comment was "uncalled for" Maybe you are right. I should have softened my critique some. How about " it appears as though a 4th grader piped the equipment. He should get a high five or a trophy for his efforts" LOL

And we wonder whats wrong with people these days :rolleyes:
 

Reach4

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My well and filtration system is all setup outdoors actually AT the well head...so if i were to install a paper filter like you said it would filter everything in my house including outside spigots...is there a reason to exclude them? Or just because its not really needed on a outdoor water hose?

Also, how long do this paper filters last before needing replacement? We have ollllld 5+gallon flush toilets and a five year old lol...needless to say our toilets get flushed a lot
It depends on how much dirt there is. I have about 9 months on my well, with a 50-5 micron variable polyester wound filter followed by a 1 micron filter. Both are polypropylene, not cellulose. IIRC, cellulose is not recommended unless you have chlorine. I expected to have to replace my filters earlier. I also ordered spare O-rings and silicone grease, and a filter wrench.

My water was clear. You use more water, and you have dirtier water. So I would choose courser filters for you, and I would expect them to not last as long. You need filters that can pass enough water per minute. My filters are rated at 20 gpm for a 1 PSI pressure drop (when new). I am an amateur. Maybe your peak water needs are greater. But these big blue filters have a lot of readily available cartridges. They are reasonably priced if you search around. An advantage of the big blue housings is that you don't have to guess right the first time as to what cartridges you need. Courser filters will last longer between changes.

Yes, the reason to not filter the outside water is to not fill up the filters.
 

ditttohead

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You did not want to do a water test, you have obsolete and discontinued or proprietary valves, (Erie 541 was sold off many years ago, Rainsoft is proprietary), and water treatment technologies advance and change over the years. You are asking us what to do with a model T and how to make it work without giving us any parameters nor listening to the advice given. Many people on this site have tried to offer you assistance, even over the phone. Toms comments were justified. Then again, there are a few licensed and highly qualified advice givers on this site, as well as a few people who dont have extensive feild experience but enough knowledge to be helpful as well.

In case people havent noticed, on well water, i give very little advice until a proper water test is done. if someone wants to take water from a constantly changing source of unknown quality and consume it and bath in it, I have no desire to have any liability when they suddenly discover their water has been exposed to naturally occuring arsenic, or that the military base 30 miles away was dumping jet fuel and cleaners on the ground 20 years ago and those chemicals have migrated into their aquifier.

Anyone who owns a well and never tests the water should not be helped. Especially since good water testing costs have dropped to below a coupld hundred bucks now.
 

Gary Slusser

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Yo Tommy, you're gettng all emotional on us again. FYI and your good buddy dippy ditto, I did testing and remediation for the VA and FHA and with the PA DNR and was never required to have a license for water testing, water treatment sales, installation or service, or plumbing. If y'all have a problem with that, take it up with the PA state and the federal government.

BTW, the VA and FHA does not require all the testing your good buddy dippy ditto and you call for.

Also, Nate's equipment or plumbing doesn't leak and as far as we know all his equipment would work if he plugged it in and put it in service.
 
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