We recently moved into a new home and we're trying to get a handle on the water quality.
We're on a well.
Lead: .014 mg/L
Slight rotten egg odor
20 grains of hardness - Culligan Rep
2.5ppm Iron - Culligan Rep (he said softener is handling the iron just fine)
500 TDS at hose bib, 300 TDS from facuet
About 12 gallons per minute are coming out of the kitchen sink faucet.
Current Equipment: water softener and unplugged "super s water conditioner"
The water softener seems to be doing fine, regenerating a few times a week using 4 lbs / salt per regeneration.
If I run the water conditioner, it does deal with the odor for the most part -- but it uses a gallon of chlorine every regeneration. I can't really find much on the internet about this and so I think I'm just going to get rid of it.
Here is my current plan:
Well Water ->
50 micron spin down filter ->
Chlorine Injection w/ Mixer and Contact Tank (for odor and safety) ->
4 20" blue filter housings w/ SED (5 micron), GAC, ACB, KDF (.5 Micron) ->
Water Softener
Water Heater
All of this will be able to be bypassed for easy maintenance / replacement. There will be a pressure gauge at the beginning, end, and after each device (so a total of 8 gauges.)
At the kitchen sink I will install an RO system too. There is a hot water spout at the stove, which is why I want the KDF filter on the whole house.
Questions:
1) It occurred to me today that so pressure gauges might cause a pressure drop. Is that true? I have them here because I wanted to be able to tell which filter was causing a pressure drop to indicate a replacement was needed. If I find I'm replacing a certain filter often I can opt for one of the larger / more expensive systems for that particular issue.
2) When I looked at the contact tank page of the chlorinator I purchased I noticed that on that product page a vacuum relief valve is suggested to protect the contact tank. I really don't yet know much about backwashing or pressure / vacuum build ups. Do I need to learn more here before proceeding?
3) According to culligan rep, water softener is handling the iron just fine. My understanding is that the KDF filter handles iron as well -- but I really have that there for lead. Should I put the KDF filter after the water softener?
4) Am I correct that the carbon filters will handle the chlorine I've injected?
5) Every week I learn something new, so does it appear I'm missing or misunderstanding anything?
Thanks!
We're on a well.
Lead: .014 mg/L
Slight rotten egg odor
20 grains of hardness - Culligan Rep
2.5ppm Iron - Culligan Rep (he said softener is handling the iron just fine)
500 TDS at hose bib, 300 TDS from facuet
About 12 gallons per minute are coming out of the kitchen sink faucet.
Current Equipment: water softener and unplugged "super s water conditioner"
The water softener seems to be doing fine, regenerating a few times a week using 4 lbs / salt per regeneration.
If I run the water conditioner, it does deal with the odor for the most part -- but it uses a gallon of chlorine every regeneration. I can't really find much on the internet about this and so I think I'm just going to get rid of it.
Here is my current plan:
Well Water ->
50 micron spin down filter ->
Chlorine Injection w/ Mixer and Contact Tank (for odor and safety) ->
4 20" blue filter housings w/ SED (5 micron), GAC, ACB, KDF (.5 Micron) ->
Water Softener
Water Heater
All of this will be able to be bypassed for easy maintenance / replacement. There will be a pressure gauge at the beginning, end, and after each device (so a total of 8 gauges.)
At the kitchen sink I will install an RO system too. There is a hot water spout at the stove, which is why I want the KDF filter on the whole house.
Questions:
1) It occurred to me today that so pressure gauges might cause a pressure drop. Is that true? I have them here because I wanted to be able to tell which filter was causing a pressure drop to indicate a replacement was needed. If I find I'm replacing a certain filter often I can opt for one of the larger / more expensive systems for that particular issue.
2) When I looked at the contact tank page of the chlorinator I purchased I noticed that on that product page a vacuum relief valve is suggested to protect the contact tank. I really don't yet know much about backwashing or pressure / vacuum build ups. Do I need to learn more here before proceeding?
3) According to culligan rep, water softener is handling the iron just fine. My understanding is that the KDF filter handles iron as well -- but I really have that there for lead. Should I put the KDF filter after the water softener?
4) Am I correct that the carbon filters will handle the chlorine I've injected?
5) Every week I learn something new, so does it appear I'm missing or misunderstanding anything?
Thanks!