New guy trying to figure out pressure tank

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Rob cerullo

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Hi guys - so I just bought a house with a well. I have not had one before but the inspector told me my pressure tank switch was likely bad because the pressure was over 70. After closing on the house I had a plumber look at it and he agreed I should replace the switch but wanted $375.00 to install.

So after watching Utube I gave it a shot. I replaced the switch with the same kind which is a 40/60 D.
No problems with the install. But now the switch doesn't cut on until the gauge reads 20 PSI and does cut off until 90 PSI. Also at 90 while running the water the pressure drops down very fast.

Based on the utube video I let out all the air in the tank in order to re-pressurize the system.

Could this be causing my problem? Do I need to put more air in the tank and if so how much? If not should I try adjusting the switch? Seems like if it is the switch adjustment its off by a lot!

Thanks guys.
 

Reach4

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One possible explanation for your lagging pressure switch would be that the nipple that carries water to the pressure switch is clogged. So when the pressure drops to 39, the pressure switch is still sensing the higher pressure from before. If this is not the case, then the new pressure switch is bad. Probably the nipple. The gauge and pressure switch are near each other, right? While you are at it, clean the path to the pressure gauge too, since that could be next to clog.

Do not add galvanized to a system. Use a brass nipple if you buy a new nipple. Use Teflon tape or pipe dope on the threads.

I suggest posting a photo, 800 pixels or less and 200 kbytes or less, or a link to a photo of whatever size. Include at least the pressure gauge and the pressure switch in the photo.

After this pressure range problem is taken care of, check pressures and adjust the pressure tank air precharge. There are many descriptions of how to do that, or we can discuss that after you cure the problem that you just described.
 
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Rob cerullo

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Ok so I used the old pipe on the new switch. I will check the nipple tonight. I the mean time here are the pics of my system taken before I changed the switch and the gauge. ]
 

Rob cerullo

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Wondering

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Turn the power off, drain the tank, then add air from 35-38 psi. Leave your faucet open where you drained tank while adding air. Then close faucet, turn on power and see what you get. When pump kicks off, put your pressure gauge on the valve on tank and see what your kick off pressure is. Your pressure gauge on pump could also be bad or partially stopped up on the end.
 

Rob cerullo

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ok gat advice - one question - being that the pressure gets up to 90 before the switch shuts off is there any danger to me or the equipment? Right now I have the pressure switch turned off and manually lowered the pressure to 50 told the wife not to turn on the water till I get home from work -is this ok?
 

PumpMd

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The way to check for a clogged pressure switch: When pressure rises on your pump system, the metal plate on your pressure switch below the 2 springs starts to rise with the pressure that applies pressure against the springs with the metal plate, so all you have to do is wait for it to kick off and try to push down on the plate(it should have a small cushing to work freely up or down), when clogged or almost clogged(it will be very hard to move the plate up or down and sometimes you can't move it at all)

You can turn the power off to your pump system after it builds up and shuts off on the pressure switch, if you don't want to touch the pressure switch with power on.

2nd picture is my pressure switch tester
 

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Rob cerullo

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Hey guys want to thank you all your advice was spot on. Took off the switch and the pipe leading to it was clogged with junk. cleaned it out and am good to go. thanks a lot saved me $400.00.
 
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