New GE water heater with slow anode leak

[Jughead]

The exposed magnesium anode nut with the knub in the center is still dry, sitting in a 1" deep cup. I'll purchase the 1-1/16th socket anyway at 1/2" drive for future use and tether it there.
I can only attribute the leak stopping on cutting the 3/4" supply way back, or more likely my being a Trusty Shellback under King Neptune's guidance.
I do need to install a pressure regulator on the incoming 3/4" copper we did in the basement, my garden hose has the pressure of a power washer.

 

[Reach4]

Get a pressure gauge, and measure your water pressure.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[CountryBumkin]

Closing the supply valve partially would not lower or change the water pressure in the tank. Partially closing that valve would only effect water volume/flow.
It's a good idea to know your water pressure. If it's too high you can add a pressure reducing valve.
I would open the supply valve fully again - I bet the leak is still gone.

 

[Koa]

Sorry to hear that. I would tend to think that if you unscrewed the anode, applied good teflon tape ( and maybe pipe dope too), and tighten again, the leak should go away. But yes, talk to the support people.

I have thought they used too much torque on those. After replacing my anode, using an impact wrench to get the old anode out, I just tightened the new one to what I would guess is 15 ft-lb. I watched. No leak. I wanted the anode to be easy to remove later.
Standard anodes are 1-1/16 inch hex head.

Just curious. Is that a good idea to use an impact wrench on an old anode rod? Would it knock debris from it into the tank?

 

[Reach4]

Just curious. Is that a good idea to use an impact wrench on an old anode rod? Would it knock debris from it into the tank?

The alternative would have been to not removed the old anode. The WH was about 12 years old then. I actually broke a HF 1/2 inch impact wrench, returned that with the socket set, and bought 5/8 instead. That seemed to have barely made it, although my compressor was only good for maybe 50 PSI.

I put in a full port ball valve instead of the plastic drain. I flushed the WH out extra well... I used the anode hole to spray water into the top during the repeated flush process. I alternated that with turning on the supply valve. I did not have a pressure washer, but if I did, I would have sprayed inside with that.

I got rocks. Sand. And dark water. I added laundry detergent. I added phosphoric acid in a later attempt. I kept going until things were as clean as I could do . I might have been better to replace the WH, if I placed a value on my time. A new WH would t have been more efficient. A new water heater might have been less reliable due to electronics. I don't know.

I drained into a plastic tub rather than put rocks into my plumbing. I used a utility pump to pump water outside, and I emptied the tub of solids by dumping it. I think the rocks may have been pumped up before the softener was installed. I cannot be sure of that. They could have come from the softener, but I don't think so. The distributor basket was intact when I took that softener out of commission. I suspect they came in while the softener was in bypass at some point. No rocks can come in now, since I have the backwashing filter followed by cartridges.

One of my objectives was to replace the anode with a powered anode. That does not contribute to producing H2S. Some people remove the anode and put in a brass plug. I did not want that. I had ordered that anode before I decided to get the iron+H2S filter. Anyway, now no H2S smell. No iron.

 

[Jughead]

Closing the supply valve partially would not lower or change the water pressure in the tank. Partially closing that valve would only effect water volume/flow.
It's a good idea to know your water pressure. If it's too high you can add a pressure reducing valve.
I would open the supply valve fully again - I bet the leak is still gone.

Actually I had the valve in the almost closed position, but on your advice just opened it back up half-way. The anode area was still dry but will check it shortly.
Yes I will put a pressure regulator on my list, but never fully agreed that cutting a valve back doesn't reduce house pressure, as it does with the garden hose outside. Guess I'm conflating volume and pressure as the same thing. As with a flooded stream with more volume, pressure seems to come with it.

 

[Jadnashua]

A soda straw verses a fire hose, given a big enough supply will have the same pressure, but they certainly can't provide the same volume...the only way to maintain pressure is to have more water than the outlet can support when there's flow. Static pressure will be the same, regardless until you open a valve somewhere.

 

[Jughead]

Oh well with the supply fully open the anode nut no longer leaks, go figure. I'll be watching it though.

 

[Jadnashua]

SOmetimes, if it is a very slight leak, the mineral deposits and/or rust will close it off. It may not last.

 

[Jughead]

A soda straw verses a fire hose, given a big enough supply will have the same pressure, but they certainly can't provide the same volume...the only way to maintain pressure is to have more water than the outlet can support when there's flow. Static pressure will be the same, regardless until you open a valve somewhere.

OK we have differing opinions of water pressure. Mine is the more volume the more pressure, one and the same.

 

[Jadnashua]

A fire hose attached to a hydrant has the same pressure as the water in your house - it comes from the same supply pipe...the larger pipe provides more volume, not pressure (unless they run it through their pumper truck!).

 

[Jughead]

A fire hose attached to a hydrant has the same pressure as the water in your house - it comes from the same supply pipe...the larger pipe provides more volume, not pressure (unless they run it through their pumper truck!).

It's rather common sense, without volume there can't be pressure

 

[Jadnashua]

It's rather common sense, without volume there can't be pressure

What about a pressure washer...lots of pressure, little volume. You're understanding of this is incorrect. Put a pressure gauge on a 1/4" line verses a 3" line fed by the same source...with no water flowing, the pressure will be identical. Pipe size will affect internal friction when there's flow, but not affect static pressure. Certainly, you won't get the same volume out of a 1/4" line verses a 3" one, but the pressure could easily be identical. What will drop the pressure is a restriction for the needed flow. You can overcome some of that by raising the pressure, but there are limits. A proper distribution setup requires sizing the pipes for the intended volume of use...if that is done, there won't be any pressure reduction at the design volume. A bigger pipe than necessary won't raise the pressure, but it may prevent pressure losses from friction.

 

[Plumber69]

I just installed a new GE gas water heater and thought all was well. A few hours later I checked and found a small drip type leak coming from the top of the anode rod. Having never messed with this device, I am wondering if I should take the water heater back and go through all that trouble or if I can simply tighten the hex nut (if I can find a large enough socket).

Take advantage of it. When warranty is almost up bring it in and get a new one