New Drain Set Up...does it look right?

[Bbillcee]

I have a pic of a diagram of what i am going to install for a slop sink and laundry drain....can someone look it over and see if it looks correct!

also if I added a 'Y' fitting directly off the vent to split the drain and used 2 traps is it ok to have a trap about 8 feet away from the the vent stack?

 

[Cass]

Go here

https://terrylove.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10701&highlight=vent

Post #11

and see how each fixture is vented and drains.

Then redraw and post it.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Bbillcee]

please see the updated photo

the trap for the slop is within a foot of the vent

i can't use that trap also for the laundry? i would have to use a separate drain and vent?

 

[Cass]

The washer needs its own trap and vent.

 

[Bbillcee]

excuse the ignorance but why would it not work?

no gases would be able to come back into the hosue because of the existing trap? so what potentially would it hurt?

 

[Cass]

Each fixture has to have it's own trap and running traps are not allowed.

 

[Terry]

Just wye off for the washer below the slop sink trap,
Add a p-trap for the washer and either tie a vent back and revent at 42" above floor, or add an AAV on the trap arm for the washer.

Most of these codes have been determined already by what does and what does not work.
As licensed plumbers, we really don't feel inclined to "reinvent" the wheel,
or to install plumbing that will be "turned down" by the inspectors,
Or waste time and material installing stuff that will be turned down, or cause problems for the homeowner, and future homeowners.

This sounds like a discussion that I would have with my youngest,
A little like answering why rainbows have the colors placed the way they do, and why they have a round arc to them.
Meanwhile, I'm just trying to locate the store I'm driving to.
I may not be able to explain the rainbow, but there it is, for God and everyone else to see.

A lot of the codes covers two things.
Prevent traps from siphoning.
Prevent smells from long untrapped sections of pipe, like in your drawing.
And prevent cross contamination.
Yeah, that's right, three things.
But who am I kidding, there's a lot more than that.
I will be going to Guatamala in March, and will get to see some really innovative plumbing like the stuff in your drawing.
I'll just make sure not to drink their water.

By the way Belieze City had the most horrible smell out in the bay as we boated out to the Cayes. I saw the most amazing collection of mistakes.
The smells were horrible.

When I was there, I told myself that I would try to put on the Internet, better ways for people to plumb. Central American is hooked up to the Internet, but they have no books or libraries.
I asked them how they learned to plumb,
The answer was,

"I just look at the building next door, and copy it"

Too bad for them, there was nothing done right in the first place.

 

[Terry]

plumbing with vents

 

[Markts30]

1st problem...
You cannot dump waste into a vent pipe...
You have to run another waste...

2nd - you cannot run 2" more than 3'6" from vent to P-Trap (at least here...)

3rd - You cannot have a running trap as was pictured earlier

If you can tap into the waste stack below the fixture the existing vent is venting, we can probably help you do this in a way that will work (and be legal)

 

[Bbillcee]

Just wye off for the washer below the slop sink trap,
Add a p-trap for the washer and either tie a vent back and revent at 42" above floor, or add an AAV on the trap arm for the washer.

QUOTE]

i guess i am deserving of your uncalled for sarcasm.....i am electrician for 20 years and can how truley ignorrant my questions seem to you.

i'd rather not cut into the existing cast iron....so your option of adding a AAV on the trap arm for the washer looks interesting

so whats a AAV!?

 

[Bbillcee]

1st problem...
You cannot dump waste into a vent pipe...
You have to run another waste...



If you can tap into the waste stack below the fixture the existing vent is venting, we can probably help you do this in a way that will work (and be legal)

thanx for a nice helpful post....this would be much work.....including busting out the concrete floor!

 

[FloridaOrange]

Just wye off for the washer below the slop sink trap,
Add a p-trap for the washer and either tie a vent back and revent at 42" above floor, or add an AAV on the trap arm for the washer.

QUOTE]

i guess i am deserving of your uncalled for sarcasm.....i am electrician for 20 years and can how truley ignorrant my questions seem to you.

i'd rather not cut into the existing cast iron....so your option of adding a AAV on the trap arm for the washer looks interesting

so whats a AAV!?

Air admittance valve.
Common brand name: Studor Vent

 

[Bbillcee]

Air admittance valve.
Common brand name: Studor Vent

thanx this looks like it will do fine

 

[Bbillcee]

by the way....is using 2" pipe for all this ok or should i go to 1 1/2"

thanx

where are u guys from anyway?

 

[Terry]

You could just run your washer hose to the slop sink.

A mop sink is also rated at three fixtures, same as the washer and has the 2" trap.

I know a little about electrical, but not enough to give advice on it.
Not that they listen, a friend of mine keeps blowing breakers on her 1100 over the range micro, it's wired to the lighting circuit.
I always try to refer some good electricians that I know.

 

[Bbillcee]

yeah thats how i originally had it but i removed a giant 2 basin 1935 sink that was about 4 feet long with a slop sinkto the right of it.......plus i am tired of keeping a stocking over the hose and all that.

i will try as u advised with the 'y' fitting with a trap for each and AAV for the washer.....seems like a good enough solution....


thank u for the help

 

[Bbillcee]

I did the job.....2 slight problems....#1 the slop sinks fills with water when the laundry drains......

#2 the ever so slight drip at the nipple where it connects to the cast iron

when i say slip drip i mean one drip every minute when laundry is draining ....any trick i can do with that???

please tell me if u see anything wrong....this is the 1st time i have done this

 

[Terry]

Now that I have pictures, I can see better.
That studor vent (AAV) will help with the washer line.
Good job with that. I see that you used 2", which is code for that.

Darn, it's looks pretty good for your first try.

What I don't like is two fixtures on the one trap arm.
If you had cut the cast iron, it would have been pretty easy to have two tees.
The lower one could have been for the washer, and the upper one for the laundry tray.
That way, the upper laundry tray would have the 2" vent going up,
and the lower tee would have supplied the washer that uses the studor vent.

I know that sounds major, but cutting cast is not really that hard.
I sometimes use a 618 sawzall blade, but most often I use a snap cutter for the cast. Snap cutters can be rented.

If you were to ask, will this work the way it is?
I would guess that it would. What you are worried about is whether the trap on the tub siphons or not, that should be easy to see by looking down that drain.
By running the washer water past the tub drain, without the seperation of a vent, that is the risk.

I don't think that is the problem with the tub filling though. You may have a blocked line that needs snaking.

Plumbing tips:
Plastic pipe can be supported every four feet, if that's a concrete wall, you may need a rotohammer for that.
The Laundry tub could have been trapped with a 1.5" p-trap, but the 2" will work nice too.

 

[Bbillcee]

thanx terry ...i gave the line a quick snake ...i think u may be right.....i think there is a slight blockage....i will give it a better snake tomarrow....

these parts were very inexpensive and now that i got a taste i might do it over the way u said

where would u cut the cast on the lower half?

right below the collar where it connects to the part where i connected to?

and what do u use to connect back? those rubber boots with the screwdriver clamps???

and what pipe gets put back? PVC or cast?

 

[Bbillcee]

also here is a pic of the cast iron lines.....u may see a easy way to do something different

looking at it again it looks quite simple to just pull that piece out

the top portion of the pipe i connected too turns into galvanized