New Construction Plumbing Layout

[Prashster]

You should get a UPC or IPC ref book - or at the very least the latest Plumbing Code Check book. There's a req'mt that the vent can't go horiz until it's some " above the flood plane of the sink. So, you can run it up and under the window. It's not going to be filled with water, so freezing is not an issue, and it being in the outside wall shldn't be an issue.

Not sure the laundry vent will be close enough to the kitchen sink to permit sharing. Further, each fix might require a dedicated vent.

 

[Kordts]

I still don't like to see bastard angles. I hand everything square off the joists.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Phil H2]

eyeglow,
What is the goal of your plan? If it is just for fun, I can appreciate that. Is it something you want to use for plan check to get permit? Are you planning to build (or just plumb) the house, or are you going to be hiring a contractor(s). The amount of detail on the plan can vary.

Anyway, since you are in California, the code is based on the UPC. I agree that you should get a book; a picture is sometimes worth a thousand words. You may be able use wet venting in the bathroom (you run the tub and lav drain into a vertical toilet vent). But, there are different requirements for the lengths of the pipe between the trap and the vent. There is a chapter in the UPC on drainage, another chapter on venting, and yet another chapter on traps. Eventhough much of the code will not apply to your house, there are many things to consider. For instance, the area of you vents added together need to be at least as big as the area of the drain leaving the building.

Venting under the kitchen window may not be a problem. But, you need to know what your area allows for drilling studs. We do not know if you have 2x4 walls or 2x6 walls. It could be a problem if problem if you have 2x4 studs and need to go through more than 2 adjacent studs. Also, your plan does not have any clean-outs.

If you have a plumber doing the project, he will know what to do. You do not need every detail on the drawing. The plumber will have ways that he likes to do things. There are many ways to run drains and vents. But you might want to talk to him early to see if there are things in the framing that could be changed to make life easier. If you are doing the work yourself, you will want a lot of detail.

Here are a couple links that may be helpful
This one is information sheets for the city of L.A. There isn't much for plumbing, but there is a Type V sheet that would help you with the general stucture. There is another sheet on notching and drilling that can be helpful. You may check and see if your buliding dept. has similar information because it may be slightly different. http://www.lacity.org/LADBS/faq/info_bulletins.htm#ib3

Here is some helpful information on plumbing requirements, but it may be out of date

 

[eyeglow]

More Info for PhilH2

The walls are 2x6. New construction. I'm going in as an Owner/Builder but the stem walls, plumbing and septic system will all be contracted out. I can do the rest myself. I've contacted 4 plumbers out my way but they've all said the same thing. They will bid on the job but won't supply me with any drawings. All of them said they use to but more and more people only wanted to pick there brain and the plumber wouldn't get the job. I can well understand that and don't blame them in the least. However, I still need to have a plumbing plan to submit to the building dept. They didn't say how technical I have to get but I'm sure they realize that when a plumber comes in, they will do it there way. I've tried to get the UPC book from the library but that was months ago and not available yet. I just want to give the building dept something and if they require more I can add to it. Hope this helps a little more. Thank you for the links.

 

[Mikey]

For $40 you don't need no steenking library :

http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=0071358994

I've also seen books in the big-box checkout area from Stanley and others (Black & Decker, I think?) that do a decent job of illustrating the basics, including planning and layout. Books like these run about $20, and should be good enough (with help from the pros here) to allow you to draw a plan that will satisfy the permitting folks.

 

[mn_nobody]

just hire a professional. they'll handle everything in the best way they know how. look for a smaller shop. ask around. doing this yourself can have bad repercussions. i've jackhammered up way too many DIY jobs that didn't flow, blocked, glued but not primer and on and on. just save time/money and hire a pro.

 

[eyeglow]

Hiring a Pro

I have no intentions of doing the plumbing myself as I've stated. I know we won't get to the plumbing until Spring time. I can't hire a plumber until then but that doesn't help me now.

 

[Geniescience]

still to fix: slope of the drain, and venting.

Venting as much as possible is good, and sending your lav drain to the wall first to get venting is good. The extra bends are no big deal for a lav drain which does not need to drain a lot or fast.

The 3" drain dropping three feet over fifteen feet is too steep for my liking. You don't want to let the liquids drain away so fast that they let solids start collecting on the side walls. Liquids carry solids away, and the best slope is just a slight one.

others with more plumbing experience may wish to speak up.

david

 

[hj]

drawing

Give the plumer a contract and you will get your drawing. I would not take the time to make one until I knew I was going to do the job, otherwise the homeowner could use my drawing to get his permit and then try to do the job himself, or give it to some other plumber, along with my price quote so he could beat my price. But, in many cases the drawing is just an exercise in Creative Writing 101 to get the permit, because it has little relationship to how the piping will actually be installed.

 

[Markts30]

my own .02$






Try these on for size - sorry for the rough sketch quality....

 

[Floridaplumber211]

There is a few problems with this layout that I can see (conforming to Florida State Code.)

The WM is required to have a 3 inch trunk line. Also, having your shower connected between your toilet and Point of Vent is illegal. Nothing can break the vent between the two.


This is how I would do it. With with an AAV at the kitchen and lav. or VTR.

 

[hj]

drains

The way you have it drawn, the kitchen sink cannot be vented, the lavatory probably will not be, and the washer may or may not be depending on how you run the pipe. You might check your county regulations also, because most septic tanks have to be at least 10' from the house. You say you don't do plumbing, and the drawing bears this out, so why are you doing it?

 

[Jimbo]

Well, you can see that the devil is in the details. You have been offered several different solutions, all proper! A plumber on site could lay this out for you quickly.

A couple of issues: you have to vent the kitchen sink. A plumbing inspector does not care that you have a window. You have to find a way to take off a vent and run it up beside the window. You can drain the sink horizontally over to one side of the window, and take a vent off vertically in that area.

They will not want the kitchen and washer sharing a 2" line.

You have left out a lot of details about vents, and that will be your waterloo. Venting is important and complicated in the fine details.

The comment about excessive slope............that issue is discussed occasionally. It is an engineering concept, but as far as I know, there are no code limitations, or known problems, with pipe sloping too much.

Don't see too many foundations in S. Calif. Are you out in the inland empire? And is this a short cripple wall, or an actual crawl space? That will make a difference in running pipes.

 

[hj]

Mark30's upper left hand drawing is close to the way I would install the bathroom. The sink drain would be better if it were on the right side of the window. That would make the washer vent easier to install, and both the drain and vent for the washer would be shorter. I would also use 3" for the sewer to the septic tank. Because there will only be two vents out the roof, the one for the bathroom will have to be 3" all the way.