New Bathroom Floor, Seeking 2nd Opinion

[LmAcres]

Hi Everyone

I'm doing a small bathroom remodel and the next step is the new floor. I've removed two layers of old tile floor, and now I'll level the existing concrete base, add subfloor, and lay down LVT. I was told by a plumber to bring the new floor level with the top of existing toilet flange. What I've seen in other, granted newer bathrooms, is a flange that sits about 1/4" above the surrounding floor. So I was wondering if anyone could offer a second opinion. The house was built in 1941 and this all looks to be original plumbing.

Thank you

 

[Jadnashua]

Toilet flanges are designed to be installed tight on TOP of the finished floor...not with the top flush with it. Now, that doesn't mean it can't work that way, but they were not designed that way. Plumbers often get in and the builder wants to get the plumbing inspection done before all of the finished floors are in, so the only way to mount the flange with good support is on the subfloor, or directly onto the slab without consideration of what finished floor may be planned to go on. That way, he doesn't have to pay the plumber to come back again, so it's cheaper which doesn't mean it's the best way.

What size is the drain pipe? If it's 4", you have more choices, like doing an internal fit one versus going on the outside. While they do make internal fit flanges for 3" pipes, they offer no chance for error, and with some toilets, are very much more prone to clogs (the outlet of a typical toilet is slightly over 2", but with a 3" pipe and a flange mounted inside, there's only 2.5", and then, there's little room to make that last turn).

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Sylvan]

Hi Everyone

I'm doing a small bathroom remodel and the next step is the new floor. I've removed two layers of old tile floor, and now I'll level the existing concrete base, add subfloor, and lay down LVT. I was told by a plumber to bring the new floor level with the top of existing toilet flange. What I've seen in other, granted newer bathrooms, is a flange that sits about 1/4" above the surrounding floor. So I was wondering if anyone could offer a second opinion. The house was built in 1941 and this all looks to be original plumbing.

Thank youView attachment 76729

I agree with your plumber FLUSH with the floor is the way to go so .

You always have the option of using a deep seal wax gasket if ever needed

Installing it above the floor can cause the toilet not to seat properly

 

[hj]

And you have been a "plumber" for how many yerars?

 

[Sylvan]

And you have been a "plumber" for how many yerars?

NYC Master plumber from 1982 - present and I held two other master plumbers licenses and still hold my master fire suppression piping license

Tomorrow I am taking my recertification class for 8 hours for fire suppression and plumbing

Class A Journeyman from 1974

Apprentice 1969 -1974

Boiler tender USN 17 -20 1965 - 1968

Expert witness from 1982 - present

I also do commercial, industrial, residential and institutional as well as certified (federal level) non fired pressure vessel and low pressure boiler inspections and installations

Water Jetting, along with other sewer and drain cleaning as well as installations of acid and chemical systems

Now the reason I said EVEN with the floor as I had a case where custodians used excessive water and the flange was a 1/4" above the floor and water seeped between the flange and toilet causing damage below

I used to install the flange slightly above the finished floor but after winning that law suit I figured less chance of a leak if even with the floor

 

[Jadnashua]

The problem with flush to the floor is that the installer does not know what kind of finished flooring may be going on above it. Say you then decide to add electric floor warming and tile...you really don't want your flange that far down underneath the finished floor surface! Or, the flooring outside of that room ends up higher, and you want to match the heights to avoid a transition between the rooms.

The flanges, if installed properly (tight to the floor and level) should allow any proper toilet to fit. The problem may occur if the riser isn't plumb, and the flange is thick, or then cocked...the toilet then might not fit...but, that's a plumbing error and shows poor workmanship. FWIW, don't go with an all-plastic flange, either, as those tend to be not only much weaker, but also thicker, and that can cause issues. You want one with a SS ring, of, if required, CI if they don't allow plastic fittings.

 

[Sylvan]

I still use lead pipe and a brass floor flange soldered and this will normally last well over 40 years.

My second choice is cast iron (No hub) and my last is a caulked cast iron floor flange.

NEVER Plastic as it is not even to be considered

 

[LmAcres]

Thanks everyone for your expertise. Some very helpful info here.