Nest thermostat and honeywell he360a

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ironshaikh

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I have a 2005 carrier 58mca080 as a furnace

Right now my humidifer (honeywell he360a) is set up on its own control (with the sail switch and humidstat) and I want to link it up with my Nest, besides running another wire from my furnace to my nest, what else should I do?
 

Vegas_sparky

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Since the HW is currently controlled by the hstat, and sail switch, why do you want to connect it to the Nest stat? Remote on/off?
 

ironshaikh

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Never mind, I figured it out with this diagram

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/t...laire-360-humidifier-into-nest-2-0-setup.html

Question for you guys, how "low" do you guys keep your thermostat when no one's home? I usually do 64, because I'm afraid of ruining drywall/wood flooring/killing indoor plants. Can I safely go lower?

And how high can I set the a/c during the summer safely? (I usually do 86)

I want to maximize my savings when no one's home and try to bump up the heat/a/c with those savings to be more comfortable with either saving money or breaking even.
 

Jadnashua

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Most things I've read imply 60-degrees is probably about as low as you want to go. I think the bigger issue is where are your water pipes in the walls and ceilings, and what is the state of the insulation and air infiltration?

The simple expedient of maybe leaving the cabinet doors open by the sinks may prevent things from freezing.

The other thing is, once your house has been cold soaked, even when the air temp may rise, it will take quite awhile for it to heat up the entire structure. The same is true for cooling, but at least you don't have to worry about things freezing. If you're away for a long time, the higher temperatures will make the traps dry out quicker.

In the summer, one big aspect is the humidity levels. When the a/c doesn't run much, the relative humidity may remain the same, but the actual amount of moisture in the air can jump radically as the temperature rises, and that can wreck havoc with your furniture swelling up.

Saving some energy may be offset by other issues. Moderation is probably more prudent.
 

ironshaikh

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My home was built in 2005 with good to great insulation. Attic has r38 insulation plus my town made it a requirement that time to insulate the walls of concrete basement walls with blanket insulation. Windows are ok, not great.

To my knowledge, none of the copper water pipes are on "outside" walls. All of them travel through inside walls.

Living in Chicago area, humidity isn't "too much" a concern. A little here and there, but maybe a few days out of the entire summer season but my attic fan really helps cool down the house a bit. Additionally, my radon fan actually sucks out a lot of the below grade humidity along with the radon surprisingly. Lastly, I'm surprised that there are a few houses in Chicago metro with no a/c. The last house I lived in (built in 1990) a/c was installed as an option and when I moved some of my neighbors never bothered to install a/c either as an option by the builder or independently through a contractor later on.

Not away from the house for too long. Everyone including kids usually leave the house by 7 or 8 in themorning and came back at 5 or 6.
 
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