Need wiring diagram verification...

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog. Water is life.' started by stevemitty79, Aug 5, 2015.

  1. stevemitty79

    stevemitty79 Member

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    OK, got the pump and a hundred feet of pipe in the hole and am at the point I need to crimp in the spool of extra wire. So I decided to give the Chinese control box a look and need to verify my wiring based on the diagram provided in the box. There's a 110v plug wired to the box, which I am ignoring. I'll junk that.

    The hundred feet of double jacketed wire that came with the pump is brown, blue, black and yellow/green in that order. The hundred fifty feet spool of loose Flotec single jacket wire is red, black, yellow and green.

    Since I will run this off a generator, I included an L14-30 plug in the first diagram to show it wired to the control box. I need verification that this box is properly routed for 220v. The view of the L14-30 is from the back of the plug if that makes any difference.

    Also, what am I to do with the neutral from the power source. Is that basically a dead leg to be discarded and left out?

    If the first diagram is correct, I color coded how I think the Flotec wiring should be spliced between the factory pump wiring and the control box to maintain the proper color designations. I'd like an OK on that too. That's the second diagram.

    I've included pics of the box as well. Now to see just how bad I blew it. Thanks for all your help.

    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2015
  2. valveman

    valveman Cary Austin Staff Member

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    Wow I wonder if they could make that a little more confusing? I am not even sure which wire in a Flotec is the start wire. But if black is the start wire I think you have the crossover correct. You will just have to give it the smoke test. Turn it on and see what smokes. It will either work or it won't.
     
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  4. stevemitty79

    stevemitty79 Member

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    Wow. I had a good laugh. You're the last person I would have guessed to give me that advice, the ole smoke test. I'm still chuckling.

    Well, does the diagram at least look correct, the routing of the two power legs, one direct to motor and the other splitting off to motor and through capacitor to motor?
     
  5. valveman

    valveman Cary Austin Staff Member

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    Oh I am the king of the "smoke test". I throw the switch on a lot of things while others are running for cover. I guess I am not as afraid of it as I should be. :)

    But yes the best I can tell your wiring will work.
     
  6. Boycedrilling

    Boycedrilling In the Trades

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    You only need the neutral wire for 120 volts. With your L4-30 plug you have two 120 volt circuits. If you use both legs you have 240 volts and each leg is the neutral for the other leg and no separate neutral leg is needed. If you only use one or the other leg to obtain 120 volts, you need the separate neutral wire.

    At some point in every electrical system, the neutral and ground are bonded together, per NEC code in the main panel.

    I just finished a pump house at a church. That is considered an auxiliary builing and has a sub panel off of the main building's 1600 amp main panel. It is 208 volt 3 phase. I installed a 100 amp sub panel. Because I have 120 volt circuits in the pump house, I had to pull 5 conductors to the pump house. The pump house is 275 feet from the main building. Three 1/0 conductors for power, a white colored #6 neutral wire, and a green colored #8 ground wire. The white neutral and green ground have separate bars in the sub panel, but are connected to the same bar in the main panel.

    If I had not had the pump house and just the well, I would not have needed to pull a neutral wire, because there would have not been any 120 volt circuits.

    Hopefully I answered you question about the neutral wire.
     
  7. stevemitty79

    stevemitty79 Member

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    Thanks. That was a clear explanation.. One thing though. Why is there a fourth prong on the plug as it's clearly only used for 220v if the neutral isn't necessary? Also, would I obtain a three or four wire cord to connect the plug, either leaving out the neutral with the three or connecting both neutral and ground together in the control box for four? I wonder if it would affect the genny operation at all as in better or worse either way.
     
  8. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    The receptacle on the generator has 4 lines because they thought buyers might want to power 1 or more 120 VAC loads and/or 240.

    The plug has 4 prongs because it was made to fit the receptacle.

    Is there voltage information for the capacitor in the box?
     
  9. DonL

    DonL Jack of all trades Master of one

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    What do you mean by that ?

    If the controller needs 110 you need a neutral.

    What is the controller that you have ? Do you have a web link to china ?

    I would use a fuse for smoke test purpose. Not a breaker.

    Good Luck on your project. Use your PPE.
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2015
  10. stevemitty79

    stevemitty79 Member

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    Ah, gotcha. I have a splitter cord with two 110 ends. So one hot and neutral and the other hot and ground? Is that how it works?

    Here's the capacitor:

    [​IMG]
     
  11. stevemitty79

    stevemitty79 Member

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    Yeah, weird. All the 220v china pumps with a control box I've seen has the 110v plug attached.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  12. DonL

    DonL Jack of all trades Master of one

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    That looks like a switching controller. They forgot to check the boxes. It could be 120V too, and has the wrong sticker. Do you have a web link to the seller ?

    It says control Box 1, where is control box 2 ?

    I think that top language says "this is a poor motor control box for use in america on single phase motors". I could be wrong.

    Good Luck. Fuses can be your friend, That may be what is in control box-2.
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2015
  13. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    What size/model of pump is that. 1/2 HP? With a 65uF start capacitor, I would not think that would be suitable for a 1 HP or even ideal for a 3/4 HP. Maybe I am wrong.
     
  14. DonL

    DonL Jack of all trades Master of one

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    What does that mean ?

    Both outlets may be the same phase, and you will not get 220V.
     
  15. Boycedrilling

    Boycedrilling In the Trades

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    The two 120 volt conductors are 180 degrees out of phase with each other. That is why each leg can function as the neutral for the other leg when using 240 volts. The dedicated neutral wire is not used, just the ground. If only using 120 volts, you use either of the 120 volt conductors, the neutral and the ground. Even if you are using both 120 volt conductors separately to power separate circuits, you use the same neutral and grounding conductor. Clear as mud?
     
  16. DonL

    DonL Jack of all trades Master of one

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    Normally. Depends what the Y adapter/splitter is doing.
     
  17. stevemitty79

    stevemitty79 Member

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  18. DonL

    DonL Jack of all trades Master of one

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    Last edited: Aug 8, 2015
  19. stevemitty79

    stevemitty79 Member

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    What mod would that be? I hope it's the control box wiring because the pump is almost completely in the hole less fifty feet. I should be finished dropping it in in the morning and ready to mount and test the control box with my generator.
     
  20. DonL

    DonL Jack of all trades Master of one

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    Yes the control box.

    The one you posted had a UK ac plug.

    Does you pump list the voltage ?

    You may be OK. Please do report your progress.
     
  21. stevemitty79

    stevemitty79 Member

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    Ok, gotcha. Yeah, the one I have has a US 110v plug, but I'm wiring in an L14-30 plug to run the 220V off my genny. The pump is a 2hp 220v or at least that's what the spec plate on the pump says. It's chinese so in the long run it's anyone's guess, but I'll find out in the next few days.
     
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