Need utility sink drain in this corner

[TomK6891]

Really need help with this. This is my neighbor's Michigan basement. He is a WW2 vet and a great guy and I want to help him. Washing machine has been dumping into the cleanout for many years. Need to add a utility sink for washing machine discharge. How and where do I tie into the 4" main shown below? The main runs 30' across basement to 2" and 3" drops from 1st and 2nd floor bathrooms and kitchen. Height of pipe just right of wye is approximately 20" from floor mid pipe. Want to use a standard utility tub. Need to place a sanitary tee and AAV at the correct height. Any ideas?

Please ignore extension cords and CPVC supply lines. Those will be moved.

 

[Reach4]

You could add a standpipe and laundry tub both. Or just the tub will work great.
I think the horizontal pipe with the white arrow is 4 inch. So you will cut a section out. Make up something like

a 4 in. x 4 in. x 2 in. PVC DWV 45-Degree All Hub Wye or other thing, but have 4-inch pipe stubs coming out each end. The pipe stubs could be salvaged from the piece you cut out.
Into the side port of a wye, you will put a santee, on its back, that will mount an AAV 4+ inches up. The side port will probably be horizontal to keep it low enough. I would then put a trap adapter for 1-1/2 inch and use a slip-joint trap.

Shielded couplers could be Fernco 3005-44, P3005-44, or Mission P-400.

You get the length right, and insert that into the 4-inch pipe gap with shielded couplers.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[TomK6891]

You could add a standpipe and laundry tub both. Or just the tub will work great.
I think the horizontal pipe with the white arrow is 4 inch. So you will cut a section out. Make up something like

a 4 in. x 4 in. x 2 in. PVC DWV 45-Degree All Hub Wye or other thing, but have 4-inch pipe stubs coming out each end. The pipe stubs could be salvaged from the piece you cut out.
Into the side port of a wye, you will put a santee, on its back, that will mount an AAV 4+ inches up. The side port will probably be horizontal to keep it low enough. I would then put a trap adapter for 1-1/2 inch and use a slip-joint trap.

Shielded couplers could be Fernco 3005-44, P3005-44, or Mission P-400.

You get the length right, and insert that into the 4-inch pipe with shielded couplers.

Thanks for the reply. Horizontal pipe is 4". Thought about placing a 4x4x2 45-Degree reducing wye but problem is final height of trap adapter. Highest I can place the trap arm from bottom of standard tub is approximately 16".

 

[Reach4]

Highest I can place the trap arm from bottom of standard tub is approximately 16".

I am not sure I understand that. Your new trap arm will be centered what-- 18 inches off of the floor or so. Middle of the existing pipe plus maybe another 3/8 inch. You will pick a sink that can deal with that.

 

[wwhitney]

I am not sure I understand that. Your new trap arm will be centered what-- 18 inches off of the floor or so. Middle of the existing pipe plus maybe another 3/8 inch.

Middle of the existing pipe is 20" AFF, so that would be over 20".

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Reach4]

Right. A standpipe with no sink would be easier, but the sink has a lot of uses.

 

[wwhitney]

The rubber coupling on the 4" "cast-iron main to street" is the wrong type--that type is only for use underground. It should be the shielded, ~2" long type for use above grade.

So you could put in a lower sink connection by rebuilding the PVC from the cast iron connection to a point somewhat to the right of the electrical cords. Exactly what pattern to use to do that would depend on the available fall, i.e. the exact elevation difference between the top of the cast iron under that rubber coupling and, say, the middle of the horizontal 4" PVC at the white arrow. Also whether it's OK for the sink trap arm to go to the wall with the cast iron, or if you'd prefer for the sink to be on the wall with the electrical receptacle away from the corner.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[TomK6891]

The rubber coupling on the 4" "cast-iron main to street" is the wrong type--that type is only for use underground. It should be the shielded, ~2" long type for use above grade.

So you could put in a lower sink connection by rebuilding the PVC from the cast iron connection to a point somewhat to the right of the electrical cords. Exactly what pattern to use to do that would depend on the available fall, i.e. the exact elevation difference between the top of the cast iron under that rubber coupling and, say, the middle of the horizontal 4" PVC at the white arrow. Also whether it's OK for the sink trap arm to go to the wall with the cast iron, or if you'd prefer for the sink to be on the wall with the electrical receptacle away from the corner.

Cheers, Wayne

Good idea. I can drop a street 90 into the Fernco and drop the 4” down at least 3 or 4 inches right of the cleanout. Would like to get the san tee and trap adapter on the same wall as the electrical outlet. What 4” fitting would I use? The long run of the 4” is currently pitched at about 1/8 per foot toward the cast.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[wwhitney]

I'd suggest putting a street san-tee into the Fernco on the cast iron, and putting a cleanout fitting into the top of the san-tee. Then a LT90 gets you around the corner. Adding a sink on the horizontal 4" drain would require a horizontal wye or combo, and the vent coming off the horizontal trap arm before the wye or combo. If AAVs are allowed in your jurisdiction, that would be a simple way to add the vent.

One thing that's not clear to me is whether the cleanout fitting on top of the cast iron is sufficient, or it's worth reinstalling a cleanout wye to the right of the new sink. I guess that would depend on where the next upstream cleanout is.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[TomK6891]

I'd suggest putting a street san-tee into the Fernco on the cast iron, and putting a cleanout fitting into the top of the san-tee. Then a LT90 gets you around the corner. Adding a sink on the horizontal 4" drain would require a horizontal wye or combo, and the vent coming off the horizontal trap arm before the wye or combo. If AAVs are allowed in your jurisdiction, that would be a simple way to add the vent.

One thing that's not clear to me is whether the cleanout fitting on top of the cast iron is sufficient, or it's worth reinstalling a cleanout wye to the right of the new sink. I guess that would depend on where the next upstream cleanout is.

Cheers, Wayne

Perfect, thanks again.