Need to raise drainpipes for hanging vanity

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I have the unfortunate task of hiding these copper pipes behind the wall and raising the drain pipes to at least 18" above the finished floor. I already got the copper taken care of, but the drain pipes need to be raised 3 or 4 inches. How would a professional handle this situation?

Thanks.
 

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The only proper way is to cut it out and raise it up. Simple.
It requires drilling the studs, of course.
Got it, So the drain pipe on the right has the sanitary tee in the next room. Does that drywall need to be opened up and raised there, or is there another way?
 

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I'm really struggling with what to do about this hanging vanity that my wife wanted. The drain pipe needs to be where the circle is. I can move the copper, but the PVC is driving me nuts. I have no idea how to handle this without ripping out the rest of the drywall that is behind the closet on the right. Can anyone recommend a solution here?
 

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Reach4

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Something like this. I hope you have enough space for a long sweep and a shielded coupler on the horizontal.
 

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Reach4

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Thanks, I will try that. won't hurt to buy the parts and see if they fit.
white-charlotte-pipe-pvc-fittings-pvc-00309-0800hd-64_145.jpg
Get your long sweep in this form so that the shielded coupler can go on the bottom of the bend without an extra piece of pipe. If you cannot find it locally, it can be ordered. Two key search words are street or spigot. Is that 1.5 inch pipe, or 2 inch?

See the B dimension on the IMG_4.png attached. The dimensions for PVC and ABS are the same for 2 and 3 inch.
 

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wwhitney

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the shielded coupler can go on the bottom of the bend without an extra piece of pipe.
The downside of that is that the hub depth on a 1-1/2" fitting is 5/8" and on a 2" fitting is 3/4", so I believe that the spigot length on a street fitting will be the same. While a shield coupler typically wants 1" of pipe to connect to. So it would likely work but would be a little bit off. If there's room for a hub and a 2" pipe segment (1-1/4" or 1-3/8" projecting out of the hub), then the coupler, that would be better.

A very unusual pattern that might work here is to use a double wye fitting, with the straight inlet plugged. That gives you a "symmetric" wye, and you could put a 45 (possibly street) on the outlet to go horizontal. That's sufficiently unusual that I wonder if it's violating some requirement that I'm missing.

Cheers, Wayne
 

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The downside of that is that the hub depth on a 1-1/2" fitting is 5/8" and on a 2" fitting is 3/4", so I believe that the spigot length on a street fitting will be the same. While a shield coupler typically wants 1" of pipe to connect to.
I think you will want a shielded coupler somewhere. If it fits on the horizontal, then that would be a good place, I think. Shielded couplings top and side could make for easier construction, but may involve opening the wall above the counter. So if you will use a shielded coupler on the bottom right, the street bend buys you space.

If it doesn't readily fit on the horizontal, there are other alternatives, such as using 45 bends to put the santee to the left, and facing the santee side port out of the wall with no bend.
 

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My local supply house carries these sweeps. Do you know one do I need? They list two, both seem very similar to me.

I am not familiar with the shielded couplers. I'm not able to find any listed at Grainger for 1-1/2" size.
 

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Reach4

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I am not familiar with the shielded couplers. I'm not able to find any listed at Grainger for 1-1/2" size.
https://www.grainger.com/search/plu...fittings/pipe-fittings/flexible-pipe-fittings
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-Proflex-1-1-2-in-Neoprene-Shielded-Coupling-P3000-150/100372284
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Fernco-1-1...ded-Specialty-Coupling-PVC-Fitting/1000075351

Tighten to about 5 ft-lb -- about as tight as you can do with a screwdriver or nutdriver. A ratchet makes it easy to over-torque.

Lube with liquid dish detergent for easier install.
 
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So, Here is the spec sheet of the standard long sweep elbow. Not sure if I am reading this correctly but it looks like I gain about 1/4" if clearance using the street + shielded coupling compared to just sticking the long sweep (non street) fitting on. Wondering if that 1/4" makes any difference here.

2.75 + 1.094 = 3.844 for long sweep compared to 3.469 for street sweep. I guess it's more like 3/8"
 

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wwhitney

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See above in one of my earlier postings, it is about 8"
Then you have plenty of width to use a hub on the outlet of the 1-1/2" long sweep 90, a short pipe segment, the shielded coupler, and the existing horizontal drain. On the top of the long sweep 90, depending on the height you want the san-tee, either the san-tee or the long sweep could be a street fitting, if necessary.

Cheers, Wayne
 

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So, Here is the spec sheet of the standard long sweep elbow. Not sure if I am reading this correctly but it looks like I gain about 1/4" if clearance using the street + shielded coupling compared to just sticking the long sweep (non street) fitting on. Wondering if that 1/4" makes any difference here.

2.75 + 1.094 = 3.844 for long sweep compared to 3.469 for street sweep.
Are you presuming a shielded coupling on the lower right, or gluing the bend right to the cut-off existing pipe on the right? If a shielded coupling, you have to add a pipe stub to the socket for the coupling to grab onto.
 

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Are you presuming a shielded coupling on the lower right, or gluing the bend right to the cut-off existing pipe on the right? If a shielded coupling, you have to add a pipe stub to the socket for the coupling to grab onto.

Hmm, I thought the purpose of the street elbow was to a avoid using a short piece of pipe? The existing pipe goes right into one end of the shielded coupling, then the street elbow goes into the other? Now I am getting confused, but I think if I buy a bunch of fittings I can probably just piece it together :)
 
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