Need tank-to-bowl gasket for 1954 Case ? Toilet

Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by IWIDESHUT, Oct 29, 2013.

  1. IWIDESHUT

    IWIDESHUT New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2013
    Location:
    SC
    Hi -
    I'm working with a 1954-dated Case 2-piece toilet for which I can find no description, parts or diagrams. Inside of tank lid says Case and also Robinson. I've never seen anything quite like it.

    The tank is attached to the bowl by a single 7/16" stud that comes from center of the bottom of the flush valve and protrudes thru a tank-to-bowl gasket, thru the bowl inflow opening and out a single hole in the center of the bowl flange under the bowl's water entry hole. This attaching stud pulls the tank down to the bowl and is held in place and secured to the bowl with a large rubber washer/gasket, then a washer, and below that a hex nut, which apparently requires thread sealer on it to prevent slight leaks during the tank draining/flush interval. This is the only "bolt" attaching the tank to the bowl.

    The flush valve is seated normally with a lipped gasket in the bottom of the tank. But instead of a 2 1/8" flange nut with six flats below it to pull it down into the tank bottom, there is a round brass "nut" threaded 2 1/8" inside, smooth on the outside perimeter with NO outer flats, and with an inward taper like a tapered compression gasket. Attached to this ring/nut, and part of it, are two descending legs that meet below (like a "V") in a threaded section from which the single tank attaching stud protrudes.

    It looks somewhat like a Case SP-29 flush valve which has an attaching nut resembling an upside-down wing nut with long wings. In my case, however, this 2 1/8" inside threaded tapered ring/nut IS the attaching nut and it looks like the lower half of an SP-29 without the "wing nut" below it.

    The tank-to-bowl gasket, which I need, is probably about 3" inside diameter, 3/8" to 1/2" thick, and 3 3/4" outside diameter. Top and bottom are flat, the outside diameter surface is flat (perpendicular to top and bottom, while the inside diameter is beveled to match the inward taper of the previously described ring/nut that secures the flush valve into the tank. I hope this makes sense - I would provide a photo but I had to reassemble with the badly deteriorated gasket.

    Can anyone provide a more accurate brand/model toilet for what I have described, and can anyone direct me to a source for the gasket I need. I have explored numerous sites for Case toilet parts and have found nothing resembling what I have.

    Thanks in advance!
     
    KAC likes this.
  2. wjcandee

    wjcandee Wise One

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2012
    Location:
    New York, NY
    Can you post a photo of the toilet? Are there any model numbers visible in the tank?
     
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  4. IWIDESHUT

    IWIDESHUT New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2013
    Location:
    SC
    Not right now - toilet at my kids' house. I think there was a 2026-54 in the tank lid, also "Case" and "Robinson" and 1954 date.
     
  5. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2004
    Occupation:
    Plumber
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    I know what you have and what it looks like, although I haven't seen one in over 40 years, or more. Maybe fax a picture to Plumbmaster 1-800-338-1867 and see if they can find a part number. They only sell to contractors, but if you get a part number Brown's Partsmaster at BPIsie.com might be able to find one. The chances are very remote, however, since that was the only toilet that used that system and Briggs did not continue that model when they acquired Case.
     
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2013
  6. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2004
    Occupation:
    Retired Systems engineer for defense industry.
    Location:
    New England
    FWIW, many of those older toilets used as much as 8g to flush. Many towns are offering rebates to replace them with more efficient modern ones that legally can't use more than 1.6g (and that is lower still in some places - coming to your area eventually). Rather than fixing it, you might be able to get a new one and not spend much.
     
  7. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2004
    Location:
    Yakima, WA
    I've resisted commenting on this thread long enough. Why in God's name do you waste you time with a 60 year old water hog toilet? If you do find the parts, you still have an antique toilet. Do you still drive a 1954 automobile and keep repairing it? No, I didn't think so.
     
  8. Repair it.

    Repair it. New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2017
    Location:
    Georgia
    I finally got around to fixing this same problem on a 1941 Case toilet in a rental house I own. I saw this thread awhile ago and thought I would report back. After several tries with other methods, I have had success with the type of tank-to-bowl gasket known as a "sponge gasket". Its aptly named, because its made from very spongy, soft, foam rubber. These come in a few thicknesses. For my 1941 Case, one about 3/4" thick worked. This may not be crucial, as they are so spongy and compress to fit. After you disassemble the tank from the bowl you can determine what diameter you need. Go to a well stocked plumbing supply house and bring back several different diameters and thicknesses. They are cheap. Also pick up the cone washer that fits on the bolt, with smaller end facing down toward the bowl. You can find the large rubber flat washers that fit on the bolt just above the nut, also. If not, you can buy a small sheet of rubber gasket material and cut them out using the large washer as a template. It can be tricky to get the single bolt lined-up just right, with the cone washer on it, to pass through the hole in the bowl. I was worried about cracking the porcelain so I tightened the nut carefully. The tank will be wobbly at first, but steadies as the nut is tightened and the sponge gasket compresses. Its best to tighten the nut gradually, stopping to test flush, and check for leaks as you go. If there are no leaks and 90% of the tank wobble is gone, I would call it good.
    Those who can only advise to replace the whole toilet, have no game, and really shouldn't be on a forum where people genuinely want to know how to repair something. Vintage plumbing fixtures are often worth keeping due to there quality and appearance.
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2017
  9. Pete5528

    Pete5528 New Member

    Joined:
    May 15, 2019
    Location:
    Saint Paul, Minnesota
    [​IMG]
    I encountered the same problem. Bought an old home, and after moving in found that the basement toilet would run half the time.

    Looked at the innards and saw the fill valve was corroded with the ball disintegrating, and the flapper on the flush valve not much better off.

    Bought new parts, spent two hours getting the water supply detached (tight corner, solid steel pipe rather than braided supply line, half a century of mineralization and rust coating the nuts.

    Went to detach the tank and realized I had no idea what I was looking at. Mounted by a single bolt, hidden beneath the flapper.

    Given that people born in 1954 are old enough to retire, I figure it's time for this toilet to do the same, just wanted to post a picture of the mount for posterity.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 2, 2020
  10. KAC

    KAC New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2020
    Location:
    Michigan
    I have been looking all evening for even a hint of how to repair my toilet.

    Just moved in and as my home inspector flushed to check the toilet out....and found all is good with the flush....

    It is also a Case Robinson with single bolt holding the bowl and tank together. I tried, and am having no luck getting the bolt off to repair the tank parts - which were upgraded from a float ball at some point. The bolt will not budge!

    There is no leak, and the 'pour water in bowl' seems to indicate no blockage. But, if a bit too much toilet paper or any BM, and it almost overflows when flushed, as there is then no power to the flush and needs to be plunged to let the bowl go down.

    Wishing I could keep it and just repair it, but maybe it is time to retire it.

    Also, the rough in measures 15'' (I thought I was measuring something wrong, so I measured again plenty), with the tank being a good 4-4.5'' from the wall. So, to get a proper fitting toilet may fix that gap.

    Just glad I have another toilet in the basement, which is newer and flushes great!

    I've read a lot on this forum tonight, and have learned quite a bit!

    Thanks!
     
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