Need info on shower drain and p trap install

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Sergio_mtl

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Hi guys,
I have a dilemma,after removing a tub which previous owner had lifted, as pic will show an arm that goes to p trap.
We are remodeling and wife wants a shower back on normal ground,I cannot get the p trap directly under the drain as studs are in way,long story short can I duplicate what the tub had but for a shower...if not what would you recommend.
 

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Terry

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Like mentioned above, they do make shower pans to replace tubs with drains on the end. I believe you would still have to pass through on floor joist at least.
On a remodel you can use the 1.5" drain. The shower drain will be 2", which can be reduced down for the p-trap.

swan-fr-3260.jpg
 
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Sergio_mtl

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Thx,for quick responses
I am straightening floor joists,by sistering them I will go the kerdi way so from what I understand I can put from the p trap an arm that goes to the drain respecting dimensions you mentioned, my only concern is going through joists, or shimming them enough for the arm ( hope it is right term) to have the 1/4 inch slope to p trap.
Thanks ,BTW was here 7 year ago,but since I retired I no longer had access to my email.
 

BruceL

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Running drain pipes through joists isn't really fun, though if I understand that picture right your drain is low enough and I think you have 24" spacing so maybe it's just through one joist? You wouldn't want to drill through the joist that was already notched, but as you've already sistered it, that's probably not really a concern.

You don't mention where the vent is in that drain. Hopefully it's vented just to the right of the picture?

As Terry mentions, even the right-hand drain options aren't necessarily flush against the wall, and IMHO the slope you get in the pan with pushing the drain that far isn't ideal. But I think linear drains don't have the same problems, and you could fit a linear drain there so you don't have to go through joists. There are pre-built pans if you don't want to do your own pan http://www.homedepot.com/p/WonderFa...Tileable-Trench-Grate-WF4860RDL-PVC/204641814 and Schluter also makes pre-formed kerdi-shower-ls that you might be able to cut down for what you want.

Bruce
 

Sergio_mtl

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Hi,
Just finished the rough, I had when I removed the subfloor, a 2 inch copper pipe going to the 4 inch I capped the 1 1/2 inch and made a T on the other side of the sister joist, it gave me exactly what is needed ,so now I have all 2 inch to main drain without cutting any joists,and yes it was vented to the right of the picture, one less headache, redid my copper plumbing, as I bought a shower column, was kind of lost in knowledge as I wanted to put a washing box with 1/4 inch turn, but instead I plumbed 2 x1/2 inch c/h water threaded copper,as water column has 1/2 flexible connector..I'm guessing I did it right way..will be easier to slip gypsum and ceramic through 2 small holes and calk it to make it impenetrable,my guess..any ideas on this..oh just discovered sharkbite caps...
 

Jadnashua

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You said you were planning to use Kerdi...I'd go to the minor additional expense to buy their pipe gaskets to guard against moisture from getting behind the pipe penetrations through the membrane, backer, and tile. They make these in 1/2" and 3/4" (the two most common sizes) for pipe, and a larger one for shower control valves.
 

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