Need Help with Shallow water pump setup for Irrigation

Graffiti

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Hey I am looking for advice on how to set this up. So what I am trying to do is water my plants and yard with the tidal river water being my home. I eventually would like to hook this up to irrigation throughout the yard, but that is a next year project. In the meantime I would really just like to run a single hose bib off this setup. The issue is however the pump is short cycling non stop when I run just one hose off of it. The reason i have it setup this way is because my neighbor has an identical setup but he already has it attached to large irrigation zones, so I am assuming the issue is the single hose I am trying to use just isn't enough flow and the pump is overpowering it. This pump is the Drummond 1hp shallow well pump with pressure switch built in. The only thing I can think to do is add a valve and open it to relieve some pressure while running just the hose. But I’m hoping someone can tell me a better way. Thanks
 

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Reach4

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If you pull the cover off of the pressure switch, could you turn the pressure setting up higher so the pump would not shut off while using a single hose?
 

Graffiti

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If you pull the cover off of the pressure switch, could you turn the pressure setting up higher so the pump would not shut off while using a single hose?
out of the box, the start pressure is 30psi and the stop pressure is 50psi. I am unfamiliar with how to adjust these, anyway you could describe it a bit? its a nut under the plastic cover? would I be tightening or loosening. Thanks so much
 

Graffiti

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If you pull the cover off of the pressure switch, could you turn the pressure setting up higher so the pump would not shut off while using a single hose?
This worked!! I turned the nut clockwise until it was perfect and now it only runs when i pull the trigger and it runs continuously. Thank you so much
 

Bannerman

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Your photos do not show a pressure tank located on the outlet side of the pump. Without a pressure tank, there is no provision to absorb some of the higher flow rate the pump is capable of supplying, vs the lesser flow rate exiting out through a single garden hose.

A pressure tank also provides storage of pressure whenever the pressure switch has shut off the pump while the outlet faucet is closed. Currently, stopping flow through the hose, will cause pressure to rapidly rise to the pressure switch cut-out pressure (50 psi), resulting in the pump shutting down, but without any provision for pressure storage, pressure will immediately drop to 0 psi and the pump will become re-activated. This rapid OFF/ON cycling will be continually repeated until flow is again restored through the hose, or the electrical power to the pump is shut off manually.

The packaging specifies the pump is capable of 630 gallons per hour, which is equal to 10.5 gallons per minute. That 10.5 GPM is based on 0 vertical rise of either the suction line before the pump, or to the outlet line exiting from the pump. Since there appears to be a substantial (? Feet) elevation rise between the water source and the pump inlet, the pump will then be actually capable of less than 10.5 GPM.

With no pressure tank, to prevent cycling, the water consumed will always need to equal or exceed the flow rate the pump is actually capable of supplying. I anticipate if a 2nd garden hose spigot is added to the left of the Tee, feeding two hoses at the same time, will likely match or even exceed the pump's flow rate capacity.

Adding a pressure tank, will reduce the cycling frequency whenever the flow rate is less than is being supplied by the pump. A larger pressure tank will result in less cycling compared to a smaller PT.

A pressure tank of any size however, will also allow the system to operate automatically, simply by opening or closing the spigot, without any need for disconnecting power whenever no water is needed.
 
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Fitter30

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Pipe the discharge of pump back to suction with a globe valve assuming that the flow is constant and your manually turning system off and on by either hand or timer. Valve is piped in the bottom out the top and can be sized one size smaller than pipe size. Globe valve is a better flow control than ball or gate valve. If flow will vary use a pressure reducing valve instead of a globe valve.
 

Valveman

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Max pressure for that pump is 50 PSI. Working the pressure switch close to 50 PSI will cause the pump to get hot. Not having a pressure tank means when not in use, even a drop of water leaks and the pump will bounce on and off quickly. I would turn the pump off when not in use as the off time is what will kill it without having a tank and working close to 50 PSI. The right pump control is more important than the pump. But with seldom or light use cheap pumps can last a while and just be replaced when they go out. Heavy or normal use water systems need a pump that says "made for continuous use" and a good pump control system.

Shallow Well Pump with PK1A.png
 
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