KineticoUser
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One side of my 20-year-old Kinetico Waterplant finally bit the dust, so I want to replace the unit with something new. I want something durable, reliable and easy to work on. I've narrowed down my search to the Clack WS1 or the Fleck 2510SXT and a 48,000 size. I'll state what I'm dealing with and then add my questions below. Any help would be appreciated.
Private well water with 2HP pressure pump (max pressure 70PSI -- 26GPM @ 60PSI)
Water tested and no iron, lead, nitrates, nitrites, chlorine, copper, pesticides, bacteria or arsenic.
TDS = 331PPM
Hardness = 13-15 grains
Alkalinity = 200PPM
pH is 8.5 for one test kit and 7.7 for another
The stub off my water main is 1" copper, but I could reduce it to 3/4" if there would be a reason for that. Water service is 1" to the Jacuzzi tub and 3/4" throughout the rest of the house, and valves are 1" for the Jacuzzi tub, 3/4" for the showers/laundry and 1/2" for the rest.
I use potassium rather than sodium.
I have 3 baths plus kitchen and laundry room. This would be for 2 people with upgrade capability if more are added in the future.
I want cycling to be as infrequent as possible and figure this system will cycle every 30 days.
I want to get away from expensive proprietary parts and unserviceable parts for the do-it-yourselfer.
Since the cycling will be every 30 days, I'd like the smallest brine tank possible. My Waterplant tank is 11 1/2" X 15 1/2" X 20" with the overflow at 13". Could I use that tank or is a larger tank required? What would be the minimum size tank, quantity of potassium and quantity of water? Round tanks take up too much space.
I'm reading that Noryl bypass valves are better than stainless steel. Do you agree?
Is there a difference between 8% resins (C100E domestic or foreign or any others)?
Do you recommend any particular setup (ie top basket, gravel base, etc.)? If so, what might be your reasoning?
Do these units have ports for an RO system, or do I need to stub out from the copper line?
Would I be happier with the Clack or Fleck?
Any other recommendations would be appreciated. Thank you for your input.
Private well water with 2HP pressure pump (max pressure 70PSI -- 26GPM @ 60PSI)
Water tested and no iron, lead, nitrates, nitrites, chlorine, copper, pesticides, bacteria or arsenic.
TDS = 331PPM
Hardness = 13-15 grains
Alkalinity = 200PPM
pH is 8.5 for one test kit and 7.7 for another
The stub off my water main is 1" copper, but I could reduce it to 3/4" if there would be a reason for that. Water service is 1" to the Jacuzzi tub and 3/4" throughout the rest of the house, and valves are 1" for the Jacuzzi tub, 3/4" for the showers/laundry and 1/2" for the rest.
I use potassium rather than sodium.
I have 3 baths plus kitchen and laundry room. This would be for 2 people with upgrade capability if more are added in the future.
I want cycling to be as infrequent as possible and figure this system will cycle every 30 days.
I want to get away from expensive proprietary parts and unserviceable parts for the do-it-yourselfer.
Since the cycling will be every 30 days, I'd like the smallest brine tank possible. My Waterplant tank is 11 1/2" X 15 1/2" X 20" with the overflow at 13". Could I use that tank or is a larger tank required? What would be the minimum size tank, quantity of potassium and quantity of water? Round tanks take up too much space.
I'm reading that Noryl bypass valves are better than stainless steel. Do you agree?
Is there a difference between 8% resins (C100E domestic or foreign or any others)?
Do you recommend any particular setup (ie top basket, gravel base, etc.)? If so, what might be your reasoning?
Do these units have ports for an RO system, or do I need to stub out from the copper line?
Would I be happier with the Clack or Fleck?
Any other recommendations would be appreciated. Thank you for your input.
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