Need help to decide between WS1 or 2510SXT

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KineticoUser

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One side of my 20-year-old Kinetico Waterplant finally bit the dust, so I want to replace the unit with something new. I want something durable, reliable and easy to work on. I've narrowed down my search to the Clack WS1 or the Fleck 2510SXT and a 48,000 size. I'll state what I'm dealing with and then add my questions below. Any help would be appreciated.

Private well water with 2HP pressure pump (max pressure 70PSI -- 26GPM @ 60PSI)
Water tested and no iron, lead, nitrates, nitrites, chlorine, copper, pesticides, bacteria or arsenic.
TDS = 331PPM
Hardness = 13-15 grains
Alkalinity = 200PPM
pH is 8.5 for one test kit and 7.7 for another
The stub off my water main is 1" copper, but I could reduce it to 3/4" if there would be a reason for that. Water service is 1" to the Jacuzzi tub and 3/4" throughout the rest of the house, and valves are 1" for the Jacuzzi tub, 3/4" for the showers/laundry and 1/2" for the rest.
I use potassium rather than sodium.
I have 3 baths plus kitchen and laundry room. This would be for 2 people with upgrade capability if more are added in the future.
I want cycling to be as infrequent as possible and figure this system will cycle every 30 days.
I want to get away from expensive proprietary parts and unserviceable parts for the do-it-yourselfer.

Since the cycling will be every 30 days, I'd like the smallest brine tank possible. My Waterplant tank is 11 1/2" X 15 1/2" X 20" with the overflow at 13". Could I use that tank or is a larger tank required? What would be the minimum size tank, quantity of potassium and quantity of water? Round tanks take up too much space.

I'm reading that Noryl bypass valves are better than stainless steel. Do you agree?

Is there a difference between 8% resins (C100E domestic or foreign or any others)?

Do you recommend any particular setup (ie top basket, gravel base, etc.)? If so, what might be your reasoning?

Do these units have ports for an RO system, or do I need to stub out from the copper line?

Would I be happier with the Clack or Fleck?

Any other recommendations would be appreciated. Thank you for your input.
 
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Reach4

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If you used 6 lb/cuft of NaCl for more efficient salt use, you would figure to get 1.5*20000 grains of softening for every regen. With 3 people you would regen a little over every two weeks, and half of that time for 4 people. Still, it is a good size. I don't know the translation into KCl, but there is going to be a similar effect.

I use potassium rather than sodium.
Unless you have a constant temperature environment, that should use a brine fill first. I don't think the 2510 does that, but maybe I am wrong and there is a version that will do that.

I understand that you are willing to pay 5x or more for KCl vs NaCL, but you also have to get over the fact that the solubility of KCl varies substantially with temperature. Now maybe your brine tank did not jam up with your Kinetico. I don't know if that is brine first, or if your brine tank temperature excursions were not so bad.

I want to get away from expensive proprietary parts and unserviceable parts for the do-it-yourselfer.
That may rule out Clack WS1. Unless you know somebody who will sell you parts. They are not as locked down as Kinetico, and the parts would be cheaper than Kinetico if you can buy them.

pH is 8.5 for one test kit and 7.7 for another
That is quite a range. With your alkalinity, I would not expect to see such wide variatons. I suggest a lab water test for your raw water. I like http://www.karlabs.com/watertestkit/ for good value, but there are those that require overnight shipping that may have some advantage. Actually with all the things that you say you don't have, that must be from a lab water test. Doesn't that have a pH value?
 
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KineticoUser

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What are the temperature limits for potassium? This unit sits in my laundry room, but I do tend to put on a sweater rather than heat up the house. I could always check the temperature before a regen, if need be. I'm assuming it doesn't need to be temperature controlled 24/7. Does anyone know if the 2510 can do a brine fill first? Since I'm fully contained on my property, if I have to release salt into my soil, I'd prefer it be potassium rather than sodium.
I've read the Clacks are easier to work on, but if the parts aren't easily acquired, it would make no sense for me to purchase one. The Waterplant also included a RO system, but you can't open the membrane canister without a special tool that Kinetico won't sell, making replacement of the membrane cost prohibitive (over $200). I just built my own system and bypassed the Kinetico RO. I'll pay for quality, but I refuse to pay for the name.
The 8.5 reading was from the PurTest kit, and the 7.7 came from my Taylor swimming pool test kit. Is the pH something that needs to be accurate for programming the water softener? I can run the tests again to confirm my readings, but I'm not great at matching colors.
 

Reach4

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The 8.5 reading was from the PurTest kit, and the 7.7 came from my Taylor swimming pool test kit. Is the pH something that needs to be accurate for programming the water softener? I can run the tests again to confirm my readings, but I'm not great at matching colors.

No. As far as I know, that does not affect the softener. However the 8.5 is at the top end of the secondary MCL for drinking water. https://www.epa.gov/dwstandardsregu...g-water-standards-guidance-nuisance-chemicals Since it is a secondary standard, it is not thought to be a health problem.

If you had a lab test, it will have pH. If you do not have your own lab test results, the thing about "no iron, lead, nitrates, nitrites, chlorine, copper, pesticides, bacteria or arsenic" implies a lab test was done, but you did not get the direct results.

Regarding the engineering for KCl, I have not studied that much, but I did post a table... post 11 on https://terrylove.com/forums/index....istance-for-softener-filtration-system.65911/ . However since your brine tank is indoors, you might not have a problem. Many people in California put their brine tank outside where temperature changes can be much greater.

The Fleck 5600SXT can do brine first, and parts are readily available to the DYIer.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/fleck-7000sxt-potassium-setting-help.56294/
 

KineticoUser

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I only drink my RO water, and that is acidic.

I used the PurTest kit to test everything else. My neighbor, whose well is close to mine, ran an expensive test during escrow, this year, and everything turned out negative, also.

Only once did I find the potassium fusing together into a solid chunk, but that was when the softener was not working. I don't recall the temperature or time of year that happened.

When I talked to tech support at Fleck, I was told the 5800 would be better than the 5600 for my purposes, but the 2510would be even better, as it is more durable.
 

KineticoUser

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I retested the Taylor test and the pH looks to be a little above 7.8. The other one was too hard for me to read accurately.
 

ditttohead

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If you use KCL, then the brine tank must be in a controlled environment otherwise Brine fill first should be used. Preferably both. Clack parts can be found, but they are more difficult than the 2510. To be honest, I don't see the 2510 being around too much longer as valves that are decades newer by Fleck greatly exceed the 2510 in almost every way.

I sent you a PM.
 
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