Need help, removing lead

[Mathieulemay3]

I redo my basement bathroom and found this... lead won't be high enough for the new floor.
Top section is 4 inches wide and the bottom hole is less than 3 inches, probably 2 1/2 due to the lead that is inside.
Bottom of that is ABS so there is probably a seal around lead & abs.

Is it easy to remove without damaging the pipe? Should I seal the new pipe inside or outside?

If outside i may need to break concrete around the pipe, what the best way, drilling holes?

I don't have any plumber that can come before January and this is blocking me from finishing the floor.
Last time plumber came and left me a lead repair 3x4x3x12, but it doesn't fit at all in it.

 

[Breplum]

Is this in concrete?
If so, then, you need to break concrete very carefully.
After everything is exposed call a plumber.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Mathieulemay3]

Yes it is concrete
Should I cut/remove the lead that is higher than concrete floor before breaking concrete around the pipe?
To break the concrete, is it only to glue abs on the exterior or to cut it?

 

[Reach4]

I am not a plumber.

I think I would try to slide new flooring under the lead, bending a bit as needed. Then on top of the lead that is over the flooring, I would put in a Danco HydroSeat. Wax goes under the the Hydroseat, and on top of the wax.

That would assume fairly thin flooring going over the concrete.

 

[Mathieulemay3]

Lead wont be over flooring, there will be 2 plywoods and ceramic on top, I want to do something that will last and won't leak, I think the best way to do it is to remove the lead, and the lead is moving a bit from the ABS pipe, something is loose so it may be cracked or not sealed correctly to ABS
When I removed the old toilet, everything was rotten, it was leaking I don't know from where

 

[Reach4]

ead wont be over flooring, there will be 2 plywoods and ceramic on top, i want to do something that will last

Lead lasts, but if the bottom is known to leak, then you probably will need to dig.

But if you think there is abs down there, you could pry out the lead to see what you are faced with below. Lead bends, so using a big flat-blade screwdriver as a pry bar, you should be able to remove the lead.

Another thing to check is how far is the center of the hole to the new wall surface going to be?

i think the best way to do it is to remove the lead, and the lead is moving a bit from the abs pipe, something is loose so it may be cracked or not sealed correctly to abs
when i removed the old toilet, everything was rotten, it was leaking i dont know from where

If you need to dig, are you renting a jackhammer? You can also have somebody come in with a saw.

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

There is not going to be ABS in the concrete. Its likely a cast iron elbow with a lead ferrule which is just a straight lead pipe that would have been pounded to a flange originally. Its time to start back at the cast iron with a proper Mission band.

 

[Reach4]

Would the ID of that lead throat be either 3 inches or 4 inches by chance?

 

[Jadnashua]

Cut/pull/pry the lead out and see what you have beneath there. If it's a cast iron hub, you should be able to use a rubber donut as the seal and a riser made out of pvc or abs to a new flange on top of your floor. If you're lucky, you may be able to do all of that from the top without tearing up any concrete. If you can use 4", you can use an inside fit toilet flange, and tile tight up to the riser, then cut it off flush when the floor is finished to then install the flange. If it's 3", you need to leave a gap around the riser to be able to slide a flange over the riser. There are inside fit 3" ones, but IMHO, that narrows the drain line down too much.

Fernco Flexible Donuts | Fernco - US I did not look to see what the availability of these are in Canada or how they are with local code issues, but would be okay to use in the USA.

 

[Mathieulemay3]

I just removed the lead, what a job! took me hours, took my time to not break ABS pipe, yes it was ABS in the concrete, now I have my 3 inches abs flush to the concrete, I started to dig a bit around the pipe
should I put a new lead or extend the abs up to the floor to install the flange directly on it?

 

[Reach4]

What is the ID and OD of that ABS? I suggest a digital caliper. Those are not an extravagance. Is it 3.00 ID and 3.50 OD?

I prefer those with resolution to 0.001 inch. 0.01 is enough for this job, but the price adder for 0.001 is usually not large.

Also, what is the distance from the middle of that pipe to what will be the surface of the back wall? That is the "rough in" and that will play a part in your decisions. You can use a standard tape measure or yard stick for that, but allow for materials to be added to the wall.

 

[Mathieulemay3]

What is the ID and OD of that ABS? I suggest a digital caliper. Those are not an extravagance. Is it 3.00 ID and 3.50 OD?

I prefer those with resolution to 0.001 inch. 0.01 is enough for this job, but the price adder for 0.001 is usually not large.

Also, what is the distance from the middle of that pipe to what will be the surface of the back wall? That is the "rough in" and that will play a part in your decisions. You can use a standard tape measure or yard stick for that, but allow for materials to be added to the wall.

internal and external diameter in picture

middle to wall is 11.5 inches, i know it should be 12 but at 11.5 i think its enough for most toilet

 

[Reach4]

Your photos would seem to show some non-schedule-40 size, but maybe there is parallax in the photos.

If you won't get a digital caliper, try measuring the circumference with a strong string, and divide by pi (3.14) to get the OD.

But we know that you don't have 4 inch pipe.

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

Weird. Looks like that should be 3" abs. Test a 3" fitting to see how it fits.

 

[Reach4]

Weird. Looks like that should be 3" abs. Test a 3" fitting to see how it fits.

Yeah, looking at the left side of the tape, instead of the right, looks more like the wanted 3.5 inches.

If that is the case, I would consider an outside compression toilet flange if the vertical distances work out well.

plumbest C40-320 3inch pipe outside. 2 inch deep.
Jones Stephens C40320
Code Blue No Caulk Closet Flange *outside*
Availability in Canada for those appears to be very limited.

The nice thing about a compression toilet flange is that you get a do-over if needed. Pros normally get gluing right the first time, but I would worry about having to redo something. If gluing, I would prefer a stainless steel ring.

The 3-inch PushTite closet flange could be of interest too. That is inside, and is all plastic, but it does offer do-overs. Sioux Chief 888-GPM (PVC) or 888-GAM (ABS). If not gluing, you can mix ABS with PVC. Those make measuring vertical distances less critical.

If the toilet would be better offset 1.5 inches left or right, there are some nice glue-on offset closet flanges.