Need help identifying water heater residue

[KineticoUser]

I flush out my AO Smith propane 40 gallon water heater on a regular basis. It is fed directly from my Fleck 7000 water softener which I supply with potassium chloride. The residue from the water heater looks like the potassium chloride, but it can be crushed with ease and has a chalky powdery texture, and there is no salty taste (actually no taste at all). I'd like to know the chemical makeup of this residue and whether it might be harmful for me to disperse on my trees when I flush my water heater.

 

[Bannerman]

What is your water source - municipal or private well?
If private well, post your current lab report.

What is your softener's total capacity? What is the 7000's Capacity, Brine Fill and Brine Draw settings?

Brine Draw is typically 60 minutes when all of the brine is drawn from the brine tank within 15 minutes. Depending on your salt setting, if it is taking longer than 15 minutes to draw all the brine, then either the salt setting and usable capacity will need to be reduced or the BD setting will need to be longer. If the BD setting is too short, then the resin will not be adequately rinsed and so the initial soft water directly following regeneration may temporarily contain Potassium Chloride, Chloride, Calcium and Magnesium. If that initial flow following regen is usually to the water heater, then ...

When does brine fill occur, at the start of regeneration or at the end? When using Potassium Chloride, it is advisable to Brine fill at the beginning then delay for 1-2 hours to allow potassium chloride to dissolve. Dissolved P-C can precipitate out from water due to temperature variance so by programming Brine first, the brine tank water temperature will change minimally in the 2-3 hours until regen is completed thereby minimizing the issue.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[KineticoUser]

I'm on a private well. I haven't had a water test since the softener was installed, but it all tested in normal ranges at that time. I have seen no changes since my 7000SXT was installed 2 1/2 years ago. Here are my settings:
Display format = Gallons
Valve type = Downflow Fill First. Fixed/Variable
Control type = Meter Delayed
Unit Capacity = 36,000 grains
Hardness = 18
Reserve selection = Variable reserve
Day override = 28
Regen time = 6am
Regen cycle: Brine fill = 18 minutes
Service = 60 minutes
Backwash 1 = 6 minutes
Brine draw = 60 minutes
Backwash 2 = 3 minutes
Rapid rinse = 6 minutes
Flow meter size = t1.2

When I flush my water heater at my rental, I also get white crystals coming out, but they are hard, not soft like at my home, and that has no water softener.

By the way, my water runs through a Big Blue whole house filter before it enters my softener.

 

[ditttohead]

The big blue will have very little if any affect. The buildup can be from a multitude of items. The softener will usually eliminate any hard scale buildup, the soft stuff can be almost anything, maybe a potassium sulfate? Sodium sulfate etc? The hot water tank tends to act as a precipitation tank and the debris in the bottom should be flushed regularly. I wouldn't worry to much about it. It may even be some kick off from the sacrificial anode, magnesium allow, aluminum etc...

 

[KineticoUser]

This water heater is a little over 2 years old. I'm wondering if I should replace the anode. AO Smith recommends checking the anode every 6 months. I'm reading that softeners destroy the anode fairly quickly. I see where there are power anodes that last a long time, as they aren't sacrificed, but they will void the warranty. They are easier to inspect, also, as they have an LED to show it is working. I have 2' of clearance above the water heater, so I could replace the anode with a 2' anode. What are your recommendations? Should I get an aluminum anode or a power anode?

 

[Reach4]

This water heater is a little over 2 years old. I'm wondering if I should replace the anode. AO Smith recommends checking the anode every 6 months. I'm reading that softeners destroy the anode fairly quickly. I see where there are power anodes that last a long time, as they aren't sacrificed, but they will void the warranty.

Does your warranty on the WH say that? I'll bet that few people ever check their anodes every 6 months. Most people never check the anode. And of those that check the anode, I expect most don't put the old one back.

I like the Ceranode powered anode, because the anode can be made as long as the original sacrificial anode. The powered anode is most useful where you get a "sulfur" smell with your hot water.

 

[ditttohead]

Agreed, powered anodes tend to by very effective, but a little costly.
We do recommend turning off the softener (bypass) annually for a few days to a week to build up a layer of calcium on the components. Nobody does this but it does allow for a little more protection of the heater. Most tank heaters last 10-25 years so this really isn't much of a problem for the vast majority of people.

 

[KineticoUser]

Thank you for your feedback. The information on checking the anode and power anodes voiding the warranty came from AO Smith technical support. I haven't had any smell to my well water since shortly after the last well was drilled, so a powered anode would be to delay the hassle of buying and replacing the water heater. Would you recommend I put one on my rental house, also, which doesn't have soft water? That one is on city water.
I'll have to run power to my water heater closet, but that is workable. I doubt I'll bypass my softener annually.