Need advice with toilet flange...

[gkyzer]

I'm on a slab and in a bit of a dilema. As you can see from the picture below...it's an offset flange with the tab for the closet bolt on the right broken off. I've never seen a flange with just a tab for a closet bolt like this.

A few questions.....
1. Is there a way to fix the current flange?
2. If not, if I cut-off the flange with and inside cutter...is there a way to remove the remaining glued PVC pipe on the outside so that a new flange can be re-glued in it's place?

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

George

 

[Terry]

Rather than tear up what you have, if you just need to secure the bolts better, you can use a Red ring repair flange.
A 1/4" rotohammer and concrete anchors will secure that flange to the floor.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[gkyzer]

Thanks for the help Terry...Do I drill through the tile floor and then drill through the concrete to secure it with the anchors you mentioned...or do I need to remove the tile? I imagine that the drop in anchors [not too familiar with them] would be the best bet. What size and length recommendations would you use and can I get them in flush mount to the flange?

Also...it looks like part of the red ring repair might be sticking out over the pipe a bit....I don't think this would cause a flushing problem ...do you?

I'm installing the American Standard toilet with the Champion flushing system. I'm hoping the red ring will fix the problem. The last thing I want to do is to have to tear up the floor!


George

 

[Bob NH]

The slotted flange is a matter of convenience.

Another alternative that won't change the level is to drill one hole into the concrete and set a piece of brass threaded rod in the concrete with epoxy or some other anchor. When you set the rod, you might want to make a template to get it correct, but there is some allowance in the toilet for adjustment of position.

This solution assumes that there is concrete for the rod to be set in.

 

[gkyzer]

Bob...that's great advice...but my problem is...the closet bolt on the right side actually sits just inside the pipe....not on the outside in the dark area of my picture. There was a small like tab there when I removed the toilet. I assume it was slotted so that the closet bolt just slid into it.The tab was broken off and I couldn't really tell.

George

 

[dc_homeplumber]

From all available research, you should rethink your American Standard Champion. Out of every 100 sold since their introduction, you will likely find 99 unhappy owners.

 

[hj]

flange

You have an offset collar being used to offset the toilet sideways. I have not seen that type of flange for years, and tried to locate one a couple of years ago for a special situation. As stated, the one bolt is inside the pipe and no retro flange will work. The idea behind that flange was always a flawed one anyway, because there was no real way to seal the toilet on that side, other than to fill the bolt hole on that side with excess wax from the second wax ring you had to cut to make one that would fit around the oval opening. At this point you may have to remove that one somehow and install the new style offset that would require cutting more of the pipe off.

 

[gkyzer]

From all available research, you should rethink your American Standard Champion. Out of every 100 sold since their introduction, you will likely find 99 unhappy owners.

After reading this forum I did some other research about the Champion toilet....I returned it today to Home Depot for a refund.

George

 

[gkyzer]

You have an offset collar being used to offset the toilet sideways. I have not seen that type of flange for years, and tried to locate one a couple of years ago for a special situation. As stated, the one bolt is inside the pipe and no retro flange will work. The idea behind that flange was always a flawed one anyway, because there was no real way to seal the toilet on that side, other than to fill the bolt hole on that side with excess wax from the second wax ring you had to cut to make one that would fit around the oval opening. At this point you may have to remove that one somehow and install the new style offset that would require cutting more of the pipe off.

hj...I'm afraid that's what I'll have to do is have it replaced. I have a plumber coming out this Wednesday to give a price to replace the flange. Do you have any idea as to the cost range of this type of job replacement will be approxiately? I know there are other factors that may come into play...but a general idea if anyone knew would be helpful to see if their cost to replace it with a new flange is reasonable for the job at hand.

George