Need advice for re-soldering 2" copper washer standpipe that barely fits into the pipe in the slab

[Thurmanator]

I recently purchased a house that has 2" copper for the washer standpipe, and the solder joint at the slab was a bit loose. I unsoldered it and was planning to clean it up for a re-solder, but the it seems the pipe in the slab was a bit too small. The copper standpipe barely fits inside the pipe in the slab. It looks like a previous plumber or handyman stretched the pipe just enough to accept the tip of the standpipe.

I'm fairly confident that I can make this work by lightly tapping the pipe with the standpipe inserted to get a tighter fit, but the standpipe only goes in about 1/2" - 5/8". It doesn't appear that the washer drain leaked, so I think it will be fine, but I wanted to ask you guys in case I'm overlooking something. The sharpie line is how far the standpipe goes in.

Is there a better way to connect this other than soldering that doesn't result in having to cut the slab?

 

[Reach4]

If you do some repair without breaking into the slab, I would make sure the upper part of the standpipe was strongly and rigidly clamped in place. If soldering, which seems likely, I would have that clamping done before the soldering. You will need a lot of heat. Brazing seems most appropriate. I have never brazed, and would probably use solder. I am not a pro.

Protect the wood from burning.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Fitter30]

The installer instead of using a coupling just beat out the pipe. The joint wasn't a good joint to begin with. The torch he was using wasn't hot enough. Using a torch with mapp gas with a big tip or oxy acetylene torch for solder? Clean up both the pipe and the flared end. Wear cotton gloves. would use a riser clamp anchor to the wall to hold the pipe plumb. Replace the bolts with althread and ancor rod in wall. Use plumber expoxy to make the joint if you don't have a big torch. Plumbers expoxy is in the plumbing isle looks like clay in a tube mix it palms of your hands, can be smooth out with spit on your finger.

 

[Thurmanator]

The installer instead of using a coupling just beat out the pipe. The joint wasn't a good joint to begin with. The torch he was using wasn't hot enough. Using a torch with mapp gas with a big tip or oxy acetylene torch for solder? Clean up both the pipe and the flared end. Wear cotton gloves. would use a riser clamp anchor to the wall to hold the pipe plumb. Replace the bolts with althread and ancor rod in wall. Use plumber expoxy to make the joint if you don't have a big torch. Plumbers expoxy is in the plumbing isle looks like clay in a tube mix it palms of your hands, can be smooth out with spit on your finger.

Do you think there’s any chance of closing the flanges up and getting a coupler on that? There isn’t much sticking out of the slab and I’m not sure that it would be possible to solder that close to the slab.

I also thought of using a fernco at the slab. Any concerns with doing that if I can bend the flanges back in to fit inside the fernco?

I’ll look into the plumbers epoxy.

 

[Fitter30]

Do you think there’s any chance of closing the flanges up and getting a coupler on that? There isn’t much sticking out of the slab and I’m not sure that it would be possible to solder that close to the slab.

I also thought of using a fernco at the slab. Any concerns with doing that if I can bend the flanges back in to fit inside the fernco?

I’ll look into the plumbers epoxy.

2-2" brass sweat flange, gasket and four bolts $150. After metal is stretched out like that piece out of the floor don't think it would be possible to shrink the metal and make round enough to use soft solder if a coupling was used.

 

[Thurmanator]

2-2" brass sweat flange, gasket and four bolts $150. After metal is stretched out like that piece out of the floor don't think it would be possible to shrink the metal and make round enough to use soft solder if a coupling was used.

I’m not sure I follow. Would I solder the standpipe to the flange and then attach the flange to the slab? If so, would I need to cut the pipe coming from the slab? Would I leave any of the stub out remaining to try to fit inside the flange?

 

[Fitter30]

I’m not sure I follow. Would I solder the standpipe to the flange and then attach the flange to the slab? If so, would I need to cut the pipe coming from the slab? Would I leave any of the stub out remaining to try to fit inside the flange?

There's a miss understanding post 4 first sentence "closing up the flange". Thought you were thinking of brass flanges.

 

[Jeff H Young]

Id solder it up and strap it solid like i think Fitter 30 says . Its a little tricky for inexpierianced if you over heat it the solder runs out you want penetration and a bead on it . you can add that epoxy if you want .
chip a little concrete out and put a fernco 3003-22 on there if you want to do it legal and relatively easy without pro soldering skill or confidence in it