Need advice for PVC fittings assembly sequence

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Rmk9785e

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This may be very basic but I am doing it for the first time and don't want to mess it up because of the fast acting chemicals. I'm replacing some leaking Schedule 40 PVC plumbing of my pond pump/filter setup and need to understand the correct sequence to cement the components together. Enclosed are photos of the original and what I have connected so far. I've measured and cut the pipe pieces to the best of my ability but there may be some room for error. I tried dry fitting but it is very tight and doesn't go all the way even though I have deburred all ends.
How should I do it to ensure it is all level and correctly aligned?
Before 2.jpg
Before.jpg
Remaining.jpg
so-Far2.jpg
 

Terry

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Plastic fittings and pipe won't bottom out until they have been primed and glued. That sort of melts the plastic and allows the full mating of the pieces.
When assembling, the last fitting needs to be swung into place. I would swing from the 90 and let the end with the union swing over to where it's going the be coupled up.
 

Rmk9785e

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hoping those existing pipes have been painted black and that you aren't connecting new PVC to old ABS
Correct. They are PVC pipes painted black.
Plastic fittings and pipe won't bottom out until they have been primed and glued. That sort of melts the plastic and allows the full mating of the pieces.
When assembling, the last fitting needs to be swung into place. I would swing from the 90 and let the end with the union swing over to where it's going the be coupled up.
Thank you. Please excuse my being dense. I've never done this kind of work before.
As you can tell, this photo has 1, 2 and 3 dry fitted. Are you saying the end with the union (#3) should be the last piece to be cemented with #2? I want to make sure #0 and #2 are level when I cement #2 & #3. I'm afraid there's only a few seconds of allowance between applying the cement and its locking up the joint. Will I have enough time to swing it over?
IMG_7202.jpg
 
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Jadnashua

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Your pipes could be 1/2" or more short at each fitting based on a dry fit versus properly cementing them together. The cement literally melts the plastic, and that allows you to push it in and bottom it out. The socket is slightly tapered, too, which is why you can't bottom it out (or if you somehow manage to, you may not be able to pull it apart!).
 

Themp

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I might disconnect at the tank and then you can swing on the new union to reconnect at the tank. You can built your new piece pretty close to perfect if you measure everything to the bottom of the fittings. One other thing I have done is used some scrap PVC and sanded or notched the ends so the pipe will bottom out in the fitting. Then you can take it a part and cut new pieces for gluing based on the sanded/notched pipes. Basically taking all the male pieces and making them bottom out in the joint so you can use them as templates for the final pipe.
 
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