Need a verdict on where to go next on pump tripping overload

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2devnull

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What the heck have you been telling these advisers to cause that advice?
lol....same info I provided here (oh, and that I want to also setup a sprinkler system). Where was I mislead?

They mentioned to get enough pressure on the sprinkler heads if water is being used in the house.
 

Reach4

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lol....same info I provided here (oh, and that I want to also setup a sprinkler system). Where was I mislead?
A moderate to fairly large sized house with a yard sprinkler system would normally be best served with a 10 gpm pump. For your well, a 1/2 HP 10 gpm pump would seem good. This presumes that your sprinkler system would have zones and would usually activate during the night.
 
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Valveman

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From 60' deep a 2HP, 25 GPM pump will deliver about 27 GPM at 50 PSI. That is a lot of sprinklers, maybe 10-12 at a time. I would run about 20-22 GPM on the sprinkler zones, so you still have 5-7 GPM left for the house. And 1 1/4" pipe is all you need. It will only lose maybe 2 PSI compared to 2", and will be much easier to handle.

60' of solid wire is probably ok. But I prefer stranded wire as it can take the flexing better.
 

2devnull

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oh geez, I'm now all sorts of confused. Perhaps if I provide some measurements from my well completion report it would be easier to gain somewhat of a consensus between the retailer (who claims to do a lot of installation out where they are) and you knowledgeable/professional folks.

Pump: 2 HP
Capacity: 100
G.P.M.: 40
Pump depth: 63'
Intake depth: 64'
Measured static water level (in 2006): 25'
Measured pumping water level (in 2006): 25'
Casing (black steel open hole): 4" From 0 to 73'
Casing dept: 72'
Well dept: 156'

4500 sq/ft home with about 1-1/2 to 2 acres to water.​

Hoping this helps.
 
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Reach4

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That 40 gpm was the pumping rate the driller used to test the well capacity for recovery, and it was not a suggestion on what pump to install for actual use.

I suggest you ask the people who will design your irrigation system what that system needs for GPM. The irrigation can use smaller heads for a longer time or big-flow heads for a short time.

You are planning a 1.75 acre irrigation system?
 

2devnull

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That 40 gpm was the pumping rate the driller used to test the well capacity for recovery, and it was not a suggestion on what pump to install for actual use.

I suggest you ask the people who will design your irrigation system what that system needs for GPM. The irrigation can use smaller heads for a longer time or big-flow heads for a short time.

You are planning a 1.75 acre irrigation system?

OK, that is good info. I guess when I pull out the pump I'll hopefully see what it is.
I'm designing my own irrigation system and can add as many zones as I need.
measuring from google maps, to cover the front lawn, part of the back closest to the house and the two sides of house will be 1.9 acre.
 

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The house will only use about 5 GPM. Anything more than that is to cover the irrigation. You can set up big zones using a big pump and get things watered fairly quickly. Or you can run small zones using a small pump and just have to start early and stay late to get across. Like Reach says figure out the size of the largest irrigation zone and size the pump for that plus 5 GPM.
 

2devnull

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Not sure if this helps....but I want to put down Zoysia, googling a bit, it states the following for watering:
  1. Turn the sprinkler on during the morning hours. Water the sod to a depth of 1 inch. Repeat this process daily for the first 7 to 14 days after the sod has been installed, or until the zoysia sod becomes established. Do not allow the sod to dry out.
  2. Water to a depth of 6 inches every third day while the sod is producing new roots. Apply the water in the morning hours to reduce evaporation.
  3. Water established zoysia sod when the soil dries to a depth of 2 inches. Water the sod during the hours of 2 to 8 a.m. Apply 1/2 to 3/4 inch of water to wet the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches each time you irrigate the sod.
I'm not sure what this all means as yet, just trying to get the pump going for now but trying to oversize to deal with this later challenge and avoid having to either upgrade the pump or digging a shallow well.
 

2devnull

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BTW - Here is another Florida well completion report (NOT MINE) that shows an even bigger pump for what appears to be the same depth. Assuming 5 GPM is reserved for house, it appears 20 is for lawn?
 
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Valveman

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Gotta figure out what kind and GPM of sprinklers you want to use. Then need to know the spacing between the sprinklers and how many sprinklers will be on each zone. Then you can add up the total GPM required to figure the pump size.

Or you can put in a 2HP, 25 GPM pump and just make the sprinkler zones no larger than 22-25 GPM. How long the sprinklers run will determine 1/2 or 3/4 inch of water.
 

2devnull

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Agreed - even looking at this paper, just for drip they have these numbers. Unless we're talking substantial savings, why not go for the oversized option?

1526059101.png
 

2devnull

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This also seems to state to use rule of thumb of 10 GPM for 1/2 acre.

This reference also gives some numbers and considerations.

I guess what I am struggling with is if my well is capable of providing 40 GPM, why wouldn't I want a pump capable of pulling close to that?
 

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Usually the problem with a 40 GPM pump is that you don't always use 40 GPM. So in the old days you would have needed at least two 86 gallon size tanks, and the pump would still cycle itself to death. With the right Cycle Stop Valve we can do this with a 44 gallon size tank and you can still use as little as 3 GPM without cycling the pump. The CSV lets you use 40 GPM when you need it, and will make the pump act and work like a 3 GPM pump when only one shower is being used. No problem with a 40 GPM, you just need a larger pump and a larger CSV.
CSV125 in well.jpeg


OR


CSV3B install pic.jpeg
 

2devnull

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Yeah for 40 GPM you will need a CSV125 or a CSV3B2T and a little larger tank like the pics above.
Right now I am quoted a 3 HP 35 GPM setup. If I keep that I can just put in a CSV125-3 (would this need a larger tank or were you referring to the CSV3B2T only?)

Also, given the pump width is 3.9" and the the well casing is 4", I don't believe I can do a flow inducer or that it is necessary as the casing provides the same function in this case?
 
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Valveman

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A 3HP cannot take as many cycles as a 2HP or smaller. And the 3HP needs a minimum of 3 GPM to stay cool, which is why you need the -3 CSV instead of the -1. This also means you will be filling a pressure tank at 3 GPM instead of 1 GPM. All these things mean you will need a larger tank, but no where near as large as without a CSV. I would use maybe a 44 gallon size tank with the 3HP and the CSV125-3. Without the CSV I would use at least two 86 gallon size tanks, and cycling would still be a problem.

PS; When you have a 3.5"-3.9" pump in 4" casing, you just have to make sure the pump is set above the screen or perf where the water enters the casing, so the water flows past the motor before going into the pump.
 
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2devnull

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Would it be best to go back to a 2 HP then? I am not sure why the latest quote came in with a 3 HP when the original one had a 2 HP. And if I get the 2 HP, I can stick with the CSV1a?
 

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If you need 35 GPM it will take 3HP. A 2HP can do 30 GPM. But it will be restricted a little with a CSV1A so you may only get 27 GPM or so. But yes the PK1A will work great with a 2HP, 25-30 GPM submersible. I would opt for the 10 gallon tank as 2HP motors can only cycle half as much as a 1HP and smaller motor.
 

2devnull

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valveman..sorry, I see some pumps like the AY Mcdonald has a 2HP rated for 35 GPM. I am again getting confused with reading the specs.
 
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