Need a verdict on where to go next on pump tripping overload

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog. Water is life.' started by 2devnull, May 10, 2018.

  1. 2devnull

    2devnull Member

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    All, per the advise of Reach4, I have created this new thread instead of piggy-backing on an older thread. I have capture the previous discussions below. Would really like to know what my next move should be. I do appreciate this groups kind assistance.

     
  2. valveman

    valveman Cary Austin Staff Member

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    Lubbock, Texas
    A 2HP motor has max amps of about 12. Check the voltage. If you have good 230-240 volts with 40+ amps either the start box is not good or the pump/motor is locked up.
     
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  4. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    How much water gets pumped up in the 5 seconds before the overload shuts down the pump?
     
  5. 2devnull

    2devnull Member

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    Feb 23, 2018
    Location:
    Florida
    The voltage is 253. It's basically a new box since both caps and relay were replaced (unless the overload themselves are bad)

    No water. I have a tap about 2 ft from where the pipe comes out the well and nothing is coming out.

    Could the check valve before the tap be jammed?
     
  6. valveman

    valveman Cary Austin Staff Member

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    A jammed check valve would cause low amperage, not high. I am afraid it is your pump/motor.
     
  7. 2devnull

    2devnull Member

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    This is unfortunate after working so well before. I believe I have a Franklin motor (due to the control box being Franklin). I have been advised to go with a A.Y. McDonald 24000 series pump. Is this the right advise?
     
  8. 2devnull

    2devnull Member

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    Florida
    Spoke to Franklin, they said I can reserve the motor by swapping the red and black wire and running for 5 sec at a time with a one minute break in-between. After three tries, if it didn't help then its locked up even though it has reached the rotor lock amperage as yet (53). I'll give this a go I guess.
     
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  9. valveman

    valveman Cary Austin Staff Member

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    The AY McDonald is probably as good as any. If you hire it done you usually get whatever brand your installer sells. I doubt that you pump is locked up with sand or debris. Most likely a locked up pump is from a bad thrust bearing or the stator just swells from heat and grabs the rotor.
     
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  10. 2devnull

    2devnull Member

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    Somewhat good news....found out the pump is only at 63 feet from the well completion report. Not sure what type of pipe was used, but trying to find the best way to rig up something to pull it out (after I try to reverse it, which as you say may not result in anything different).

    Any ideas on a rig is appreciated even if it is some stuff from Harbor Freight for this one time (once in a while) use.
     
  11. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    What kind and size of drop pipe?

    Maybe hand over hand, but with a method to hold the pipe if you rest.
     
  12. 2devnull

    2devnull Member

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    I'm hoping it is poly down there. Will open up this weekend.
     
  13. 2devnull

    2devnull Member

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    Does anyone know how to the poly pipe attaches to the pump? Is there some type of screw-in with barb on the other side adapter that you use clamps?
     
  14. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    That is how poly attaches.

    What do you see at the top? Presuming that you are not in some cold part of Florida, you probably have a well seal. The pipe would hang from a fitting or fittings. You may have galvanized or PVC pipe down there.

    I suggest you watch some Youtube videos. There are a lot of variations that you may deal with.

    Take pictures as you go.

    Valveman is not saying to not try the wire swap thing. He is saying to not hold out a lot of hope, but it is still easy enough to try.
     
  15. 2devnull

    2devnull Member

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    Yes, been watching tons of videos, however many have the pitless adapter and mine wouldn't as at the top of the well casing is the well seal with four screws and another four sided cap nut. A galvanize tee piece comes out for the water (top part of tee is cap) and another smaller galvanized pipe for the wire.

    I tried the wire swap thing. Didn't seem to work although it wasn't tripping the overload but I only let it run for 5-seconds each of the three times.

    BTW - I see here a lot of mention to not use torque arrestors. What's the reasoning?
     
  16. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

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    That depends on the casing size. On a 4 inch casing, bits of rubber shed from a broken torque arrestor could prevent pulling the pump. I have a 6 inch casing and when I pulled my pump, the torque arrestor had broken and missing bits.
     
  17. valveman

    valveman Cary Austin Staff Member

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    Torque arrestors always have broken parts, come lose, or just swell and stick the pump in the well. They really only help if you are cycling the crap out of the pump, so don't do that. Use double jacketed wire and it won't chafe from cycling. Never put anything down a well you don't have to.
     
  18. 2devnull

    2devnull Member

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    Feb 23, 2018
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    Florida
    I see.

    Makes a lot of sense.

    Where do I get double jacketed wire? Read this and saw he took a different approach by putting the wire in another poly. Is this a good idea or is it putting things down that you don't have to?

    [​IMG]
     
  19. valveman

    valveman Cary Austin Staff Member

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    Yeah don't need that either. Where the wire comes out at the ends of the poly conduit they will chafe. I see zip ties, torque arrestor, and poly conduit that don't have to go down the well, so they shouldn't.

    I like THHN-THWN direct burial cable. Some people call it tray cable. It is meant for direct bury and is not "rated" for submersibles, but works better than any sub wire I have used. Use to buy this stuff by the truckload. Looks like this.
    wire2.jpg
     
  20. 2devnull

    2devnull Member

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    Feb 23, 2018
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    I notice it is not solid. My current cable is 10 gauge solid. Any issues here?

    BTW - Do I really need to change the cable on this replacement? been down 12 years.

    Given I just need just over 3 pieces of 20-ft sch-80 PVC, I'm wondering if I should go with that instead of poly. I've been advised to go with 2" sidr-7 poly and move from 40 GPM to 35 GPM. Am I getting appropriate advise?

    Also, what do you hold the cable to the poly/pipe with?
     
  21. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    What the heck have you been telling these advisers to cause that advice?
     
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