My Fix for the Forward Tank Tilt on an Old AS Champion 4

[Geobrick]

I installed this toilet 11 years ago and was never able to get the tank adjusted in a way where the seat could rest in the up position without the risk of it falling down mid... My workaround was to use a slow close seat.

I had to remove the toilet a few years ago when we installed a new floor and noticed that either the tank is a bit warped or the stop tabs (or pads) on the bowl where the tank sits aren't level.

The floor is level and the bowl is level but when the tank is dry fitted onto the bowl (without the gasket) the tank doesn't sit flat on the pads (see the pictures). The tank will rock diagonally (front right to back left).

Either the bottom of the tank is not flat or the pads on the bowl are not level. I know American Standard has improved their quality over the years (I installed a Cadet 3 Pro a few years ago and it was perfect). But this toilet is from 11 years ago and is a good example of the quality issues they had back then.

My solution is to grind 1/8" off the back/right side pad (when looking at it from the front). This will allow the tank to sit level on the front pad while allowing the tank to be tightened down onto both back pads. This should hopefully be enough to allow the seat to be lifted slightly past 90 degrees where gravity can hold it in place (and it will look normal).

Eventually, I'll get a replacement. Was looking at the Toto 1 piece models but I want a flat top and the only model seems to be the Eco-Soiree (which is fine but it seems like they may be discontinuing it soon because it's their only model that's not offered with the new washlet+ hole option).

 

[Reach4]

Are you describing a prospective fix, or one you already did?

If prospective, where you have the gap in the back, can you temporarily push the tank aft, and close the gap?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Geobrick]

Are you describing a prospective fix, or one you already did?

If prospective, where you have the gap in the back, can you temporarily push the tank aft, and close the gap?

It was a prospective fix as I wrote it but about an hour later I took out my angle grinder with a diamond wheel and did it.

The champion 4 tank only has 2 bolts so there's no way to adjust the front to back tilt independently as you tighten down the tank bolts. Alternate side tightening first brings the tank down onto the front tab on the bowl (the part of the bowl on the champion 4 that slopes up to meet the tank). As you continue to tighten the bolts, the tank will begin to lean back as the tank bottom approaches 2 tabs/pads/stops at the back of the bowl. At some point, the tank makes contact with the back right tab. Once the tank hits that pad, I have to stop tightening even though the tank isn't tilted back enough on the right side. There's no where left for it to go because the tab stops the tank from being pulled down any further. The left bolt could be tightened further but can only result in either lifting the front right of the tank off of the the bowl (leaving a gap on the front right side of the tank) or potentially cracking the bowl. Knowing the front pad is fairly level, allowing a gap wouldn't seem right.

Shimming both side of the front would have worked to get enough tilt on the tank but may not have looked good. It seems that grinding down the tab worked and the raised seat tilt finally looks normal (tilting back at about 91 degrees).

I'm not sure how many people would ever come across this problem so I don't think this post helps anyone. Most posts about a tank's tilt on this forum are not similar to my situation and if they are, just return the toilet (like I should have 11 years ago). But I got 11 years out of it and should get plenty more.

I finally did this fix when I had to pull the toilet for wax seal leak. I assume it was from when they set the toilet after the tile was installed several years ago (but "they" could have been me).

 

[Reach4]

The champion 4 tank only has 2 bolts so there's no way to adjust the front to back tilt independently as you tighten down the tank bolts.

On many toilets, there are 3 points of potential ceramic/porcelain contact, and two tank bolts. You want two contact points touching at most, and a very small gap on the third... just enough to slip a piece of paper or business card into the gap. If you touch all 3 points, there is no "give", and the toilet could break.

But in your case, when one of the back contact points is contacting and the tank starts tilting forward, then your grinding made things tilt better for you. That is great.

 

[wwhitney]

On many toilets, there are 3 points of potential ceramic/porcelain contact, and two tank bolts. You want two contact points touching at most, and a very small gap on the third... just enough to slip a piece of paper or business card into the gap. If you touch all 3 points, there is no "give", and the toilet could break.

Obviously you can't tighten much beyond the third point making contact without breaking something. [If the screw head is bearing on a rubber plug seal in the tank, then tightening a little beyond contact may be appropriate to properly compress the rubber, but I'm thinking that the resistance from compressing the tank to toilet gasket is sufficient for that and it's better/safer to stop at final contact.] But why would you need a gap at one point? I don't see any need for the tank to be able to move independently (a very small amount) of the bowl.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Reach4]

But why would you need a gap at one point? I don't see any need for the tank to be able to move independently (a very small amount) of the bowl.

It is a sure operational way to not try to compress the incompressible.

 

[Geobrick]

I've got a few more pics to post on this including my failed attempt to use a Fluidmaster "better than wax" seal. The flange sits on the floor so the gap was too small to compress the foam seal. Used wax instead.

 

[Breplum]

The corkscrew 'thing' is a flow/noise reducer to limit noise on refill.