Multiple issues in bathroom renovation

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Too much DIY

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Against my husband's advice I decided to "just see" what was behind the old wall tile in our 1952 bath. This is now a major renovation. The two main questions I have right now are:

1. Has anyone ever seen concrete poured between the joists under a 3" mud bed instead of a standard subfloor?
2. Our iron drain pipe originally had the integrated flange. Somewhere down the line that was either worn or sawn off. It may have been hubby when he replaced toilet a couple years ago. He says that pvc flange he used never fit correctly. Though we never had leaks the toilet did rock a bit. How to resolve?

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hj

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That was a common way to install tile in the bathroom at that time. Your photo of the flange is useless because the rag obscures the material, although it could be lead. PVC flanges do not work with cast iron or lead, only PVC.
 

Reach4

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That was a common way to install tile in the bathroom at that time. Your photo of the flange is useless because the rag obscures the material, although it could be lead. PVC flanges do not work with cast iron or lead, only PVC.

You got more out of those pictures than I did. On the first one, I thought she maybe posted the wrong picture.

Most of us don't have a "Post Copy" button, but do have a "Post Reply" button.

TMD, there are compression toilet flanges that are made to go over cut-off cast iron. You might post a clear picture of the closet flange as viewed from the basement. You might have to borrow a dedicated camera to get a good picture.
 

Too much DIY

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Sorry about the picture quality, it was early am and I was just trying to be as quick as possible before the whole household woke up. These are the best pics I can come up with using a separate digital camera. Also, I knew mud bed's were the standard in 1950's for setting tile, I just have never seen another layer of concrete between joists before. Neither have my parents who have renovated old ranchers as well.

And my husband is now saying he thinks the drain is lead as the outside edges bend very easily. And we don't have a basement, that would make all this too easy.
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Reach4

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Yes, that is lead. Much better pictures. Be gentle with your lead.

You would finish the floor, surrounding the lead. Presuming the lead still comes up higher than the floor surface, you could put a metal "repair ring" around the lead. You would bend the lead gently, apply your wax ring over the lead, and attach the toilet.

You will want more detail. You will want to read some more too.
 

FullySprinklered

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To keep the bathroom floor level with the floors in adjoining rooms, the tile guys would hatchet the tops of the joists down, then put ledgers on the insides of the joists, run short pieces between them, then fill the joist space with mortar. I'm with Reach on the lead toilet drain. If the lead still looks good, do the floor and then put the ring down around the lead, then tap it down gradually all around.
 

Too much DIY

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Thanks to all for the replies. We have the plywood subfloor almost all down. I had planned on using self leveling cement on top of this , then concrete backboard before laying tile. But that puts this lead pipe below finished floor by between 1/8"-1/4". Without the leveling pipe would almost be flush with floor. I've read enough posts here to know most recommend having flange be level with FF. My current plan would have us slightly above. thoughts?
 

Too much DIY

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Latest question: we have the plywood subfloor down but now what? It is not level in many spots due to the cement between the joists under it. We also now wonder how to effectively adhere CBU to the plywood since there is cement under the majority of it instead of wood. I am now thinking to just use self leveling concrete and install the tile directly onto that versus backerboard? Height will work out better this way, but want to make sure I won't end up with cracking or loose tiles. To me, cement is cement, but I've only ever installed tile to CBU before. Will self leveling be a good base for porcelain tile?
 

Tom Sawyer

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You need to replace the lead flange and that's going to require hiring a plumber familiar with working with lead.
 
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