Moving water supply lines for shower near external wall

[KennySackman]

Ok so I'm doing a bathroom remodel because we have a tiny shower and no bath in master bedroom. We bought a right hand drain, but that would mean water supply would have to move from internior wall to exterior. However, I know its not good to run pipes through exterior wall, and planned and building a closet space in bathroom area anyway. If I make this closer space about 12-18 inches from exterior wall and making a new interior wall, for edge of closet, or shelf space, and running supply lines for shower through that. This would be ok? So it would be exteior wall, shelving, then new wall with supply lines in it, then tub on other side of that.

 

[EIR]

I don't follow . Are you building a new wall cavity parallel but 12"ish in of the existing exterior wall?

A drawing or sketch helps.

Typically, with a traditional wood framed wall (outside to inside...plywood sheathing, 2x4 with batt insulation than wall covering) even with pipe insulation depending on climate zone is.... like you said....Bad practice.

If you run the pipes in the warm side of the batt insulation, whether in a chase, or an additional wall (double wall construction) than there shouldn't be any worry.

If you have a newer wall construction (persist method, double wall, remote, sips, insulated concrete block, etc) than you'd need to know where the conditioned vs unconditioned space starts and stops.

Easiest way to think about it, you'd want those supply lines on the inside of any exterior wall insulation where you condition the space.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[KennySackman]

I don't follow . Are you building a new wall cavity parallel but 12"ish in of the existing exterior wall?

A drawing or sketch helps.

Typically, with a traditional wood framed wall (outside to inside...plywood sheathing, 2x4 with batt insulation than wall covering) even with pipe insulation depending on climate zone is.... like you said....Bad practice.

If you run the pipes in the warm side of the batt insulation, whether in a chase, or an additional wall (double wall construction) than there shouldn't be any worry.

If you have a newer wall construction (persist method, double wall, remote, sips, insulated concrete block, etc) than you'd need to know where the conditioned vs unconditioned space starts and stops.

Easiest way to think about it, you'd want those supply lines on the inside of any exterior wall insulation where you condition the space.

Like this. Is that far enough?

 

[KennySackman]

Essentially I'm creating a new interior wall there, I'm pretty sure the 18in gap from exterior wall which is closed off because of the cabinets is enough.

 

[Terry]

18" is plenty there.
In Puyallup, even good insulation behind the valve would work for the outside wall.
But yes, if it's my home, I'm wanting an interior wall, or spacing it out a bit, with good insulation.

 

[Atomic1]

I just inspected a home that had $300,000 worth of damage from a supply pipe that broke in an exterior wall for a bathroom vanity. The pipes were located on the inside face of the 2x6 stud walls. All it took was a small amount of air leakage around the edge of the insulation batt. Use with extreme caution! I think at a minimum you'll want a continuous air barrier to prevent any cold air leakage into your wall cavity....and even then, I would be nervous if you're ever on vacation and turn down the heat a little. These people will now be out of their house for a year as the contractor tries to figure out how to repair the TJI floor joists that started crushing under saturation.....