Moving toilet riser

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russeljc

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I'm working on a re-arranging a bathroom and needed to move the toilet to one side about 6 inches... So this bathroom was put together several years ago, but never finished out, so the riser was still sticking out of the concrete by about 10 inches.

This was originally installed with 3" pipe with a 3" to 4" 90 and a 4" riser.

I've got the concrete cut out and removed. The elbow is pretty deep in the ground. Some pics of what I have.
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LAhCrKukwk2JfTUEIcxZN8bpoZYyDkFDorBrsXpDKzldkTGouvQIlacWHFNT4N8w4OHU28r3cVR2XDnRdCT2eqdHKOSFPvY6lKeH9U3QF9Q9_H3GV7mltmoLOMgcDklo9A_FOk4tUh8=w483-h644-no

3rlRlAqBGNpxmF3-viifshN6MaZ0awztp1_MJrqXIG3L6wn2Y1rNbkaZEf9xyYkHODRovWV2-ScEu_lIoJRpFVKQRUJgn-kZupee4UkBaD_oExgR0Ezz3fIPDbLOw5fVUgmSiSQOKqo=w1208-h1610-no

Should I cut the 3" off behind the elbow add a couple 45s on the horizontal to bring the 3" to the right spot and come up with the riser.

*or*

Should I cut the riser off above the 90 and use a couple 45s to offset the riser over to the right spot on the vertical.
 
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russeljc

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Sorry... didn't have them shared correctly... hopefully they are showing up now.
 

Terry

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You have so much space there you can do it either way. I prefer moving the 90 below with a 45 if that works, but two 45's on the vertical works well too.
It's pretty deep there, maybe I do like the vertical. Six inches isn't much, sometimes it's easier when you have more play to work with.

For toilets you need at least 15" from center to the next object, like a cabinet or tub. 30" total space. More is always good too.
Standard rough from the back wall is 12" to finished wall.
They do make closet flanges that will glue inside a 4" pipe. That way you can cut flush and glue the fitting in after the flooring is in place.
 

russeljc

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Ok, cool, I'm liking the vertical too since I think it will get the pipe where it needs to be with less tweaking... I just wanted to be sure one way or the other didn't have any big disadvantages.
 
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