Moving shutoff line...doable?

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OklahomaDave

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I'm in the midst of a kitchen remodel, and in working out the installation of a disposal within a new, deep sink.

My supply lines come up through the floor into my cabinet space. Each supply line is terminated with a fairly typical compression cutoff at the top. Given the depth of the new sink and the existing disposal, I'm calculating a very small but real interference problem with the *knob* of the cold supply line shutoff to the faucet - about 1.25". My calculations also tell me that I can resolve this problem if I do nothing more than loosen this shutoff, rotate it 90 degrees to move the knob out of the way, and then re-tighten the nut.

The practical question, however, is whether a compression fitting can be amended in this way? That is, loosening the fitting just enough to let me rotate the fitting atop the supply line as described, then re-tighten it? Or am I asking for trouble doing it this way?

I've attached a photo of the shutoff to make it clearer. The intent is to rotate that cutoff 90 degrees clockwise, such that the knob is now facing to the left.

Thank you in advance for the information.
 

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Reach4

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I think yes. I am confident.

I also think there may typically be compatibility with other compression valves. No guarantees. I would get a nice small quarter turn ball valve and fit that in using the old ferrule and nut. I used Rectorseal #5 in my compression connections recently. That is totally not normal. I had had some compression connections not seal well. I was not using enough torque while tightening. But I thought the pipe dope would not hurt and might help. So I did it. It probably would not have leaked without the pipe dope. I am not a plumber, and I have very limited experience.

The official way to change out the compression valve is to either cut down the pipe, or to use a ferrule puller to remove the old ferrule, and allow the new nut and ferrule.
 

Terry

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Rotating the stop is fine.
The hot side could be cut down shorter and a new stop installed, the cold side could have a 90 to offset if needed.
 

OklahomaDave

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Rotating the stop is fine.
The hot side could be cut down shorter and a new stop installed, the cold side could have a 90 to offset if needed.

Terry, please accept my thanks for the info. I rotated the cutoff with no problem, but I have some later info on my upcoming countertops that caused me to re-measure things - and I think my interference problem is slightly worse than I expected. I need to turn that cold side 90 degrees back- just as you had suggested in your reply - and lose about 2" of height in the process.

I was thinking about just taking a pipe slice and cutting that supply line just below the current shutoff, then just using a Sharkbite push-on 90-degree fitting, then just reattach the cutoff to a small length of pipe coming out the other side of the 90. Reasonable?

Referencing that photo, I effectively need to turn that cutoff toward the back of the cabinet 90 degrees. The shutoff valve itself is almost exactly the height of the expected interference.

My thanks again to all who have replied. I'm more of a computer nerd by trade, so I'd be happy to return the favor in those forums :)
 

Dj2

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It looks like lowering the angle stop will solve your problem.

It can be done. Shut the main, remove the existing compression valve, install a 90 elbow on top of supply nipple, then install a new short nipple and a new compression valve. I would use copper only.
 

OklahomaDave

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Thanks again for all the great replies. I thought I would post a follow-up to relate what happened.

I did, in fact, have even more of an interference problem than I expected. I needed to clear a fraction more - perhaps 1/4" - than the height of the shutoff itself. I cut the existing feed pipe and then attempted to install a 90-degree elbow with about 5" extension and a new cutoff.

I cut, cleaned, and fluxed all the connections, and used a propane torch to perform the sweat. The top connection of the elbow sweated perfectly in just a few minutes, and I thought I would be done accordingly. The lower connection, however, became a problem. For whatever reason, the solder was not taking properly; the nearest half seemed to be OK, but the half closer to the back of the cabinet was not. I also noticed that the existing pipe was very slightly tilted or bent, and that led me to believe the elbow fitting was not seating cleanly. After realizing I had an ugly glob of solder that simply wasn't right, I had to sweat the fitting off. As I suspected, the near half fluxed cleanly, the back did not.

I then believed that the slight bend in the fitting really suggested I needed to remove it as well. This is where my lack of experience as a DIY'er kicked in - since that stub was coming out of the main shutoff to the entire house, I was very concerned that applying heat to that fitting, if done improperly, risked damage to the main house cutoff, which could have been it's own special kind of disaster.

At that point, I contacted a professional plumber who came out and finished the job. He advised that from what he could tell, I had done a good job, and perhaps might have just needed a bit more patience with the heat on the lower connection. He removed the existing stub as I had suspected was necessary, using a MAPP torch rather than my propane version, and removed it in just a few minutes. He then installed a 90 street elbow with a quarter-turn stop and all was done. He was actually complimentary of the effort I'd made, and told him I'd just decided the risk of further damage was too great if I guessed wrong on a further install effort.

The new connection is, of course, working perfectly and the interference was exactly as I'd projected. All is good. Thanks again for all the replies.
 
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